Thread: Penetrol - when not to?

Simon, when I got my vintage 24" Robinson retyred by a company called Linatex, they have a new name now, they asked me to sand the wheels back to bare metal for them to help the glue grip. That was 20 yrs ago and it is is as good as new now, runs a 5hp motor, overdriven for speed and will cut 550mm billets.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Thanks, Croc! Sanded mine back and popped the tyres on today, not glued yet - not sure if I should or not (damn Internet, so many comments for and against haha) I decided not to Penetrol the surface just in case the rubber didn’t appreciate it. I’ll do more research. I guess my main problem is the motor which I’ve also not decided on yet. It had a single phase 1 horse motor on it (makeshift) that you literally had to feather onto the belt while hand spinning her up! Fun times.. I still have the original (it was under a shelf, in the shed when I bought the house) it’s a 3ph 2hp - so I’m toying with a single phase 2 or 3hp. This is without getting a VSD and a 3ph motor. Reality is she will likely get light useage, and is waaaay more saw than I need, but it’s what I have and I’d like to see it keep running. Sorry! Long winded reply from an enthusiastic beginner. Cheers!


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Brain is a bit dull tonight, I meant to say talk to whoever you are getting to do the work.
Crocy.

A work in progress!




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Originally Posted by Old Croc

Brain is a bit dull tonight, I meant to say talk to whoever you are getting to do the work.
Crocy.

That’s me, and although I do talk to myself often, it hasn’t helped in this case [emoji23]


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Pre-tyred




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I think the tyres really need to be glued down, after all you don't want to be throwing off a rubber in the middle of a cut. With big wheels like that the centrifugal force is constantly trying to dislodge the rubber and if they are securely glued down then you can be confident when playing with the blade speed. If you want to do a bit of veneer cutting then higher speeds will give you a smoother cut and less sanding on the finished product.

Thanks you, Len, I will glue them - just need to work out the best solution for gluing.

Originally Posted by Toymaker Len

I think the tyres really need to be glued down, after all you don't want to be throwing off a rubber in the middle of a cut. With big wheels like that the centrifugal force is constantly trying to dislodge the rubber and if they are securely glued down then you can be confident when playing with the blade speed. If you want to do a bit of veneer cutting then higher speeds will give you a smoother cut and less sanding on the finished product.

I helped a mate in the States glue new tyres on his 30” Bandsaw a while ago.
We had a number of bits of dowel between the tyre and wheel.
We could get the tyre on evenly then lift the tyre up and put the glue on a bit at a time.
Cant remember what glue we used it was about 35 years ago
Are you Queenscliff NSW?
I get over that way occasionally and wouldn’t mind having a swizz at your saw if that’s ok.
H.

I successfully used a broken bit of a fan pole to get the tyres on - MacGuyvery'd it... I will do the same to put the glue under, I think. And I'm afraid not, I'm down in Victoria.

Originally Posted by clear out

I helped a mate in the States glue new tyres on his 30” Bandsaw a while ago.
We had a number of bits of dowel between the tyre and wheel.
We could get the tyre on evenly then lift the tyre up and put the glue on a bit at a time.
Cant remember what glue we used it was about 35 years ago
Are you Queenscliff NSW?
I get over that way occasionally and wouldn’t mind having a swizz at your saw if that’s ok.
H.

So were these pre-made tyres? If so, can you tell me where you got them?
I did read somewhere that a guy had pre-made tyres and he also used a largish dowel and squirted Sikaflex in behind the dowel and kept rolling it forward, supposedly in equalised itself.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Originally Posted by Old Croc

So were these pre-made tyres? If so, can you tell me where you got them?
I did read somewhere that a guy had pre-made tyres and he also used a largish dowel and squirted Sikaflex in behind the dowel and kept rolling it forward, supposedly in equalised itself.
Rgds,
Crocy.

These are the ones I bought: Urethane Bandsaw Tyres and I'm literally just back from picking up Sikaflex. A mate used to work for Sikaflex, he swore by it for everything, and my research and label reading said it should do the job. I'll use the same method to get it under the tyre - Hope to get that done today, I also have to sand down the table today (sooo expensive to get it surface ground) so I'll do an Andy Rawls and 40, 80, 120 it... See how it turns out. Will report back.

I'm almost there... The insert for the main table needs re-doing, and due to its hilariously uneven edges, I have to make something up.... Not sure what, yet, but I'm thinking it may involve a moulded metal bog contraption with a wooden insert - unsure. The other main hurdle is the motor... Trying to work out of I can put a start up load of 13.9A on my shed power (I don't have 3Ph or the cash to get a new 3Ph / VSD setup right now, that will be the long term plan)

Here's the insert dilemma... Any thoughts certainly appreciated.

IMG_2349.jpg

Originally Posted by gtvone

I'm almost there... The insert for the main table needs re-doing, and due to its hilariously uneven edges, I have to make something up.... Not sure what, yet, but I'm thinking it may involve a moulded metal bog contraption with a wooden insert - unsure. The other main hurdle is the motor... Trying to work out of I can put a start up load of 13.9A on my shed power (I don't have 3Ph or the cash to get a new 3Ph / VSD setup right now, that will be the long term plan)

Here's the insert dilemma... Any thoughts certainly appreciated.

IMG_2349.jpg

Ok, 2 parts. I had a similar problem so I put a flat bottomed carbide burr in my Hitachi 3 hp router and kept taking small cuts till i got it reasonably flat. If you want to be safer, use a pink mounted stone. Then get some aluminium and make an insert plate, you can do this on a metal or wood lathe.
For the power problem, you could get a leckie in to change the circuit breaker to one with a different curve for motor starting, so hopefully it will work.
Rgds,
Crocy.