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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    12

    Default Bearings for Bandsaw refurb? CN or C3 and RS vs ZZ

    Hi guys,

    I previously posted this under a different thread I started about this bandsaw but it was probably too hidden to elicit discussion so I have started it as a new thread.

    It turns out my Craftsmaster CWB-350 Band saw is a clone of a Jet Asian built band saw JBS-14. I got a manual from Ozark Woodworker. There were a couple of interesting bits in there such as the hex carrier for the thrust bearing having the bearing support eccentric on the shaft so that you can adjust where the blade hits the bearing. Blade guards are the same as the ones for the Carbatec Sw-1401 and a pile of others.

    I have replaced the bearings in the top wheel with 6202-2RS C3. The bearings are retained by a nut at one end and there are cir-clips that control the insertion depth in the wheel. As the bearings have some pre-load because of the nut retention, I would think C3's are a better choice than CN. Comments please.

    I note that the bearings are not really an interference fit, more of a slide fit, on the shaft and am considering putting a little low-mid strength Loktite in place. I am considering Locktite 641 which sounds just the go.

    Loctite ® 641™ is a controlled strength retaining compound that is ideal for cylindrical parts that require disassembly. Recommended for maximum diameteral clearance of 0.008". Fixtures in 20 minutes.

    I am also going to replace the bearings for the lower wheel. These are 6204's. Again I think the C3 variant of the 2RS bearings is the go due to pre-load from the retaining nut.

    The wheels line up co-planar with the old bearings and I'll check that again before applying any loctite. There is slight evidence of bearing run, though probably not with the bearings that I took out as they show no run marks, on the shafts and that is why I am considering the Loktite 641.

    I am also going to use 2RS bearings rather than ZZ as an experiment. The rubber seals (RS) are better at excluding dust and retaining grease than the metal shielded (ZZ) bearings. If it turns out that the RS bearings become damaged by sawdust, or metal from the thrust bearing, then it's back to ZZ's.

    In one place my bandsaw just had single sided Z bearings, i.e. open on the inside. Have others tried using ZZ's or 2RS bearings just stuck with Z's ZZ's? But grease largely escaped from the bearing hence moving to 2RS or may ZZ's as discussed.

    Regards
    Greg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    kallangur qld
    Posts
    1,074

    Default

    Sealed bearings are the best way to go, shielded bearings are fine if there is no air born contaminates,and as saw dust can be extremely fine it can get in the shielded bearings and the lubricant can seep out.

    My advice is use the best quality bearings you can fit, and justify.

    Jeff

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    what he said

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    I replaced the original ZZ bearings on my bandsaw with 2RS and haven't had to replace them since. From memory they were about 20-25% dearer, a good investment in my book.

    Can't comment on CN vs C3.

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