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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    383

    Default Question: How to safely crosscut logs?

    Hi,
    I have a 14" Taiwanese bandsaw with a riser kit and a small area table-top.
    I want to cut woodturning blanks off the ends of 200mm diameter logs. The problem is the length, weight and roundness of the logs makes this awkward to do without the blade jamming either due to the log sagging or rotating. I don't have
    Does anyone know of a jig or solution that can help do this safely and easily?
    The only idea I could think of so far was to clamp the log in a longish V-cradle which is mounted on top of a board. The bottom of the board then sits on top of roller stands so the cradle with log can slide past the bandsaw blade (if that makes sense).
    Thanks
    Paul
    New Zealand

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Cairns
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Paul

    Try this site http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=29656 . It shows a re-sawing rig for a bandsaw.

    Paul

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    For long logs, you're better off investing in a bow- or chain-saw and cutting the log into more manageable lengths than mucking around with a roller stands, etc. Say, just long enough to x-cut two or three rounds off, using the bandsaw.

    If you're thinking about ripping each round in half through the pith, I wouldn't bother. Just invest in a small hatchet or a couple of wedges and split it the old school way. (Like splitting firewood.) It's much, much quicker and saves your BS a lot of wear 'n tear.

    For simple crosscutting of a round, just roll the log over until it finds it's best "flat spot" on the floor, then screw a short stud or scrap of mdf/ply onto the end so it acts like a skid, making sure the screws are going into a bit that will be turned away. Of course, the skid needs to be able to sit flat on the table during cutting for this to work.

    If you're cutting a log that overhangs both sides of the table (ie. the skid will hang uselessly in mid-air) then you've no real choice but to go for a cradle. (Or cut it shorter with the afore-mentioned chain-/bow-saw, but that's not an option if you want long blanks for some reason.)

    Eventually you'll end up with several cradles of different sizes, one for each diameter of log so the V doesn't lift the log higher off the table than the BS can cut. And if the log is tapered or some odd shape, then you need to muck around making a custom cradle with a different sized vee at each end, so you slice squarely and not on a diagonal.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    383

    Thumbs up

    Skew,
    thanks for the idea of a hand bow saw - I had completely forgotten about this non-motorised saw that people used before chain saws to cross-cut logs.
    Given that I only need to do this infrequently and the smallish diameter of the logs, the cost makes it a suitable simple solution for me compared to a chainsaw and does away with the need for roller stands and V-cradles.
    Paul
    PS There is nothing so uncommon as common sense
    New Zealand

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