Thread: Re-sawing bandsaw

Originally Posted by Brett57

Hi Riverbuilder,
Have you had any experience with The Luguna saws sold by Gregory Machinery and Carbatec I think.
thanks for the feed back. It seems the guide system is very important for re sawing.
cheers

It is important. I haven’t used a laguna saw, plenty of people have them, and I’ve only ever seen a couple for sale secondhand, so that tells me that people are happy with them. I looked at them when I was gearing up and I honestly couldn’t see or justify the $2000 price difference for the job I was using it for compared to the Rikon saw. One thing you need to remember though, if you buy a saw for resawing, and keep it set up for that, ask yourself how often will you use it? It’s usually at the start of a project,to break down 2” or 3” boards, in my case. But if you’re looking to get into veneering and laminating curved pieces,for musical instruments or such, you will use it a bit more. My advice for a small woodwork shop would be to buy a bigger table saw and a ripping blade and just rip with it, you can cut 150 mm wide stock by turning it over, and then you can change the blade and use the same machine for cutting everything else for the project. Just my thoughts. I’m lucky, I have a big shed, and can fit these machines into it, and I use them professionally,every day, so I can justify having them there ready to go.All the gear I have in use now I’ve bought secondhand ,and cleaned up and tuned. Most others are working out of a double garage, in their spare time, or are retired. My other advice, buy a copy of “ The bandsaw book”, by Mark Duginske, lots of great knowledge in there. Good luck.

Perhaps guides are more important for crowned tires, which I guess is what the Rikon machines have.
Admittedly on the new 20" far eastern machine I had bought cheap a few years ago, setting the side rollers close to the blade was impossible, so never got to test that saw out properly.

Never felt the need for anything but a thrust guide on my machine, flat tires and beam tension has been good enough for me on my 24" saw... another lemon machine I was graced with
and the saw was used in anger, cuts all over them, which I welded, but are a bit sloppy now,
so are just guards really.

I would have guessed the same for a 20" machine, crowned profile or not.


If resawing extremely expensive stuff, then you might want a 1" carbide blade like a woodmaster CT
That will need to be a hefty machine to run that expensive blade, at something like 25,000k psi.. I believe that's the minimum width of carbide options. some more expensive again!, I believe like the resaw king, may be easier to tension.

Might be an option to sharpen yer own instead, so might as well start with 1" if you're doing that type of work cutting say rosewood or something, if your shoestringing it.

Originally Posted by Tom trees

Never felt the need for anything but a thrust guide on my machine, flat tires and beam tension has been good enough for me on my 24" saw... another lemon machine I was graced with
and the saw was used in anger, cuts all over them, which I welded, but are a bit sloppy now,
so are just guards really.

Hi Tom,

Can you please paraphrase the above? The meaning of what you are trying to say eludes me.

Just saying you could likely get away without having side rollers if you had a large saw that could easily handle a 3/4"
blade, say if the OP came across a used machine.

My saw was a lemon, and was much abused, I welded the thrust guides, aswell as the side rollers.
I don't have a better pic of the damage to them to explain, there was deep cuts into them, but they are a bit sloppy now, so I was always weary of them pinching the blade.
I think it may be the bronze bushings might be a bit melted.
Have gotten away without ever needing them, but as I said maybe not the case if the tires are crowned.

Going back to the used machine option, if the tires are a bit worn they could be dressed, providing there's no rim for the
tire to sit in.
I'll say this with a bit of warning though, that flat tires might show up something that may be wrong with the machine, or even
not suit having the blade in such a position, i.e teeth off the wheel.
Guideposts for example.

The way I see things after having two lemons is, you might as well have a machine that has all the things you want.

For me that's large cast iron wheels, the interchangeability of parts on Italian saws, aswell as some other brands.
A good strong frame, which should be capable of tensioning the 1" carbides, so should be good for 3/4" blade,
I've made some changes to my machine, some chancer was at it before I had it, tension assembly was wrong and damaged.
After doing some Ceanturolizing tensioning a blade turns out to be easy now.
And a nice big table turns out to be a nice thing, after having a compact far eastern 20".

Oh, and a suitably powered dual voltage motor for conversion to run on 240 domestic plug via VFD
That's all the features I want, not saying the blade de tensioning lever isn't a good idea.
A bit like a sawstop, if you've got the money then why not...
It might be something to break though, do we know that yet, there not long on bandsaws.
If its possibly an easy fix to upgrade it, then it wouldn't be a worry to me.

I was looking for a 20 or 540mm machine, so having one size up should prove its worth.

VFD bandsaw.JPG

Still working on my saw, I'm a bit of a flake.
It will be a forever machine when its done, and I don't mind taking the tools to it and improving if necessary.
Plumb bobs are a PITA.

Tom

Originally Posted by Fergiz01

Where are you located? There's a second hand Hitachi cb75f resaw bandsaw for sale on Gumtree in Perth.

Sent from my SM-A115F using Tapatalk

Hi do you know what they asking for the Hitachi?

Originally Posted by stevenjd

Hi do you know what they asking for the Hitachi?

$2k which is the same $ the used one sold for in Sydney last year.

H.

Ok thanks for that. They are very well built for re sawing.