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17th August 2014, 10:04 AM #16Member
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I have heard that the steel welded frames don't seem to handle the tension like the old cast frames. I don't if this is true as I have alwas had cast bansaws which didn't seem to flex at all.
Modernizing an old saw is not a big task as you can get the tires, pulleys, guides and motor at reasonable prices now. There are many old cast iron bandsaws laying around. It might be that you want a machine immediately in which case tarting up and old one is probably not an option.
Paul.
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18th August 2014, 09:56 AM #17Retired
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Crocy and others,
When I first built my shed, I had to upgrade the transformer and the sparky incorrectly advised me to run a single phase 50amp line to the shed, not 3 phase. So I have had to pass up on some good 2nd hand gear. Still unsure about which brand but Gabbett Machinery (Minimax) have given me good service in the past.
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18th August 2014, 04:46 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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18th August 2014, 07:58 PM #19Member
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Or get your hands on a rotary phase converter. VFD's are good but it means you need one for each machine. If you wire in an RPC then you can run quite a few machines with quite a small overhead cost.
I have always been of the opinion that if you see yourself staying in the place for a while bite the bullet and install 3 phase - lathough not an option if you live 10 km from the mains.
Paul.
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19th August 2014, 12:45 AM #20
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19th August 2014, 10:46 AM #21
I have used the hitachi re-saw at a guitar factory I used to work at and hands down the best. Clean cut only down side try folding that blade is death sentence
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20th August 2014, 09:08 AM #22Senior Member
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- Oct 2010
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- Drouin Vic.
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Hi Jefferson,
several friends had the same cutout issue and found it was the thermal overload that needed to be reset to a higher running temp.as the motor heated up after prolonged use. I have also had a faulty door switch cause the same issue. In my own case I went from a Carbatec unit to a Hafco BP-500 that like others have mentioned needed quite a bit of setup with a new Kreg guide,extra dust port etc. Now runs just fine and is used with a 1Tpi special blades for breaking down small logs. The 3Hp motor copes well. I also have a Hammer N4400 with a 4Hp motor that has been in daily use for the past eighteen months and works just fine for finer work and some re-sawing. The key points I have learned over the last ten years or so is to make sure you get very good quality blades and set them up correctly. (I use Henry Bros in Sydney) Also need to keep them sharp with good set especially when re-sawing old redgum . I also have access to a resharpening machine and have found with good quality blades we can do this 5-6 times without any issues so far.
Cheers,
Paintman
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20th August 2014, 09:11 PM #23
Jeff,
I bought an old Jeffwood 27" band saw some time back. It will cut 12" deep. It is all cast iron and was made in Brisbane. The tyres were in good shape and I replaced all the bearings, including the blade roller guides, for $53.00. It is also fully guarded. I replaced the 3ph motor with a 1ph motor. It is bloody heavy too. Dust extraction is nil and will need some thought and engineering, eventually. It did not have a mitre groove or a fence. The mitre groove, I can live without but I did engineer a good solid fence.
Crocy's idea is a good one. These machines are around but you will need to be patient.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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21st August 2014, 08:30 AM #24Retired
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Thanks, Jim.
I've been breaking my boards down on the local woodworking club's H & F bandsaw which is fine on most breeds of wood. 100mm cuts, but slowly, slowly.
Not sure about a 2nd hand machine. I'm not any good at all on re-furbishing etc.
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