Thread: Best re-sawing bandsaw on the market

Do you mean Minimax? If do which one?

3/8 seems like quite a narrow blade for resawing. How many TPI is it?
I have the same CT BS and I'm using a 34mm wide 1.1 TPI.
The main thing wrong with the CT 19" seems to be the 2HP motor is a but underpowered and I was thinking of putting a 4HP 3 phase motor with VSD on mine.

Thanks, Bob for the quick reply.

I was looking at the HD Minimax range from Gabbett Machinery. Both the 500 and 600mm versions clock in at over $5K.

The Carbatec 19 inch BS I have has had the motor re-wound, a new German starter kit plus 2 new capacitors but it still stalls for no reason. It's great when it goes, not so otherwise. With the small 3/8 th inch skip tooth blade, it's great for cutting platters into circles. When it's going. For some reason, it cuts out, under load or not.

What I do have is a lot of 200 x 45+ mm redgum boards that need to be cut into say 30mm and 15mm planks. Less a few mm for wastage. In hindsight, I should not have bought the 50mm boards but I did.

I have a mate who bought a Laguna BS but I am not convinced it is any better than what I already have.

This is my last major investment and I want the best. Re-sawing boards and cutting mulga, gidgee and ancient Kanooka which is very hard on blades. \

Any and all advice most appreciated.

The new Laguna 14/12 bandsaw is good for resawing, especially with the Resaw King 3/4" carbide teeth blade.

You will need to spend a fair bit of time setting this bandsaw up, so get ready for an exercise in total frustration. The Manufacturer is useless, never answered a single email. Have not found a satisfactory way of getting the mitre slot parallel to the cut line. Again, no customer support from the manufacturer.

You will also need to get rid of the fence, and make your own large one with supports, one that can clamp to the table and stay at 90 degrees to the table surface along its full length. The tall fence that comes with it can be pushed off vertical by a couple of mm quite easily. Useless for resawing. Even if you decide to keep the fence, you will need to cut the 25mm diameter rail down to size, as it projects way past the table and you are always bumping into it, and it is quite painful.

Dust collection is poor, with a single 4" hose, so be warned.

The best way to set up the ceramic guides is by taking the table off, as recommended by Alec Snodgrass of Carter Products. This requires a bit of strength to lift, hold at 45 degrees to the vertical, and twist 90 degrees horizontally. The lower guides are virtually inaccessible, and very difficult to tighten, with the table in position. They are tightened by round plastic knobs with centre thread, cheap and nasty, and you can only apply finger - thumb pressure. The correct positioning of the guides is a bit of a hit and miss affair, I have found. Very difficult to get the blade exactly midway between them. Tried a cigarette paper, no joy. No micro adjustment of the guides available, so the setting of the guides is not repeatable or consistent.

The plastic ratchet handles that hold the table against the trunnions are useless, throw them away and replace with a nut and use a ratchet spanner.

The optional extra lamp is good, but a poor after-thought, with cabling held in position with little plastic clamps stuck on to the body of the saw. Needs an additional power connection. Problem with the lamp is I am always bumping it with my head, and I am 6' tall. A little bit of thought by the manufacturer would have provided a hole and fitting in the top of the vertical post to drop the lamp cord down and connect to the incoming side of the main switch - all neat and tidy, and hidden. Surely not too much to ask? One also has to question the positioning of the lamp, at the front of the saw but to the side of the blade, casting one side of the blade in shadow.

One of the small rubber feet has already come away from the permanent base, so when the unit is lowered from the mobile base, it needs to be wedged in position, otherwise it rocks violently in action. I don't fancy tipping this heavy machine up just to replace the foot. Besides, it is too heavy for one person

Hope this helps

Originally Posted by jefferson

The Carbatec 19 inch BS I have has had the motor re-wound, a new German starter kit plus 2 new capacitors but it still stalls for no reason..

By "stall" you mean, "slows down under load" or "stops completely"?

No, Bob,

The beast simply stops for no reason, load or not. It will go for an hour without stopping and then it stops and starts for no reason. The sparky has no solution. When it's working, it's great. I use it mainly for cutting rounds for the lathes. Frustration Indeed.

Jeff

Does it have mirco switches on the doors? If so, might be faulty switch, plug or wiring.

What sort of thermal overload protection does the BS have? On the switch or on the motor?

Originally Posted by Acco

Jeff

Does it have mirco switches on the doors? If so, might be faulty switch, plug or wiring.

DJ, I've had the sparky out several times and he can't work it out. It's great when it's running but a pain in the behind when it cuts out for no reason. And yes, it does have safety cut-outs if the doors are open. Will check that one out with my electrician.

the fact that it stops and start like that sounds like the thermal cut out switch to me.
I've seen these switches with just enough sawdust inside them to cause probs.
If you can get at it maybe wiring an indicator (light globe) in parallel with the output side of that switch and monitoring what happens as you saw

Thanks for the advice, Bob. I'll wait for my sparky to return to Vic from Qld and do as suggested. Otherwise, it's not a bad bandsaw.

Yep, my money is on the thermal overload protection not working properly, hence the question above

As to the OPs question about the "best" resaw bandsaw on the market in the 5k vicinity, this still needs some answering!

When I was in the market for a bandsaw back in 2007, I researched Meber, Agazzani and Felder bandsaws. Others will likely know way more than I about these bandsaws but I viewed them all and they seemed to be VERY similar -- in that they probably all originated from an Italian factory. Felder protest and say their machines are made in house -- and they may well be now -- but on close questioning, what they really mean is that the base machine is constructed elsewhere and then they are "made" = "adorned" with electronics, badging, paint, etc.

Anyway, I bought the FB540, which (again at the time) was the smallest of the industrial grade machines they made. It has an S1, 3PH, 2.2kW motor, weighs a lot, and is stiff enough to properly tension 1" blades. I chose the Felder over the others because I was already familiar with the brand and its quality, and liked their machined table solutions, in feed, side feed, out feed, etc.

I have mine set up with support on all sides, and have used the wise advice of BobL, John Samuels, and co, in terms of chip and dust extraction.

I have no idea how this machine stacks up to other machines in the 5k range. But just thought I would try to give a bit of info with regard to the original question.

Cheers.

Apart from the machine itself, I thinks the OP need to look at who will provide the best service or who will not disappoint you if something goes wrong or require their technician to be sent to you. I have bought a few machineries in the recent 12 months, both from agent who are known for excellent after sale service and agent who simply does not have after sale service, but the price is way too attractive so I decided to take the risk. It's a calculated risk because I know the machine has solid reputation.

Even the best band saw manufacturer can have a machine that's out of alignment and require setting up by a qualified, factory trained technician.

Originally Posted by jefferson

Troops,

I've already got a 19 inch Carbatec BS that works (sometimes) with a 3/8 inch skip tooth blade. Great for cutting circles ie woodturning.

But, like some other posters, I haven't decided on the new machine. I have two mates with very disappointing results on a Hammer BS that I hope to avoid.

I'm inclined to spend the $5K and get a Minima. Anything better out there?

Jeff, have you considered finding an old cast iron machine and modernize it? I have a huge Robinson that was designed to cut 150mm deep. It now cuts 550 mm, runs at twice the speed, has delrin roller blade guides and runs a 32 mm bi-metal blade. Its up to you, but there is a lot of complaints of modern saws on this and other forums. Just my $0.20 worth,
Rgds,
Crocy.