Thread: Cannot remove drift on blade

Today I started from scratch again on my new Laguna 14/12 bandsaw setup. I removed the guides, removed the table, and untensioned the new 3/4" bimetal blade amd moved it so it sat in the middle of the lower flywheel. Then fully tensioned the blade ( according to the tension gauge on the saw), and the adjusted for coplanar by using the tracking knob on the rear of the upper flywheel until both wheels were surprisingly perfectly coplanar, as measured along the centreline of the two axles, and the blade was sitting nicely in the centre of both tyres as I rotated by hand. GREAT STARTING POINT !!!!


I then adjusted the guides and refitted the table (with great difficulty with the blade already on, lots of twisting in all directions). I then drew a pencil line across the table through the blade line parallel to the mitre slot. I then marked a straight line on a 400mm test piece and ripped along that line by hand ( no fence) until the far side of the table was reached, and then stopped and held the test piece fixed on the table. NOW. THE. BAD. NEWS. With everything all nicely set up and coplanar at full tension, the test piece had veered way to the left by 10mm off the pencil line at the end of the table i.e., 10 mm in just 200mm. That is some drift !!! It indicated , according to Michael Fortune's articles that the blade on the upper flywheel is set too far back. So using the tracking wheel again, I moved the blade forward ( thereby losing any coplanar, but that is normal, coplanar to me is only a starting point), but was unable to get it so there was zero drift, without the blade points projecting beyond the outer rim of the flywheel.


Any suggestions as to what to try next, please? All I want to do is have zero drift and the fence, blade and mitre slot all parallel. Surely this is not an unreasonable expectation for a Laguna bandsaw?

Originally Posted by Dengue

Today I started from scratch again on my new Laguna 14/12 bandsaw setup. I removed the guides, removed the table, and untensioned the new 3/4" bimetal blade. Then fully tensioned the blade ( according to the tension gauge on the saw), and the adjusted for coplanar by using the tracking knob on the rear of the upper flywheel until both wheels were surprisingly perfectly coplanar, as measured along the centreline of the two axles, and the blade was sitting nicely in the centre of both tyres as I rotated by hand. GREAT STARTING POINT !!!!


I then adjusted the guides and refitted the table (with great difficulty with the blade already on, lots of twisting in all directions). I then drew a pencil line across the table through the blade line parallel to the mitre slot. I then marked a straight line on a 400mm test piece and ripped along that line by hand ( no fence) until the far side of the table was reached, and then stopped and held the test piece fixed on the table. NOW. THE. BAD. NEWS. With everything all nicely set up and coplanar at full tension, the test piece had veered way to the left by 10mm off the pencil line at the end of the table i.e., 10 mm in just 200mm. That is some drift !!! It indicated , according to Michael Fortune's articles that the blade on the upper flywheel is set too far back. So using the tracking wheel again, I moved the blade forward ( thereby losing any coplanar, but that is normal, coplanar to me is only a starting point), but was unable to get it so there was zero drift, without the blade points projecting beyond the outer rim of the flywheel.


Any suggestions as to what to try next, please? All I want to do is have zero drift and the fence, blade and mitre slot all parallel. Surely this is not an unreasonable expectation for a Laguna bandsaw?

If the problem is not in the other areas of setup, there's really only one thing left - the blade itself. I can't remeber if you've already done it, but have you tried another blade, ideally from a different supplier/batch? I think that's what I'd be doing next, apart from contacting Laguna directly, if the distributor still isn't answering your emails.
I'd be pretty pi55ed too, if I paid the extra $ for a Laguna but had this sort of teething trouble. I've come to expect it with the cheaper brands though.

As an afterthought, if you lay a straight edge across the table against the flat of the blade, (between teeth), is the blade parallel to the mitre slot. Best checked with the guides backed off a little to make sure they're not interfering with the blade angle.

Thanks Steve, I really appreciate your helpful comments and suggestions. Yes, this is the second blade, from a different manufacturer.

The problem is not the supplier, he has been good, but Laguna themselves. Neither the supplier nor myself have received any response from them. Apparently this is par for the course.

Will measure the angle of the flat of the blade tomorrow. I just spent this morning aligning the guides, and will have to back them off to do this . They are pretty flimsy and hard to get right. If only they had made them microadjusting.

Also found today the dust collection leaves a lot to be desired, with a lot of it falling outside the 4" outlet and hose connected to my DC.

Would love to have a brake on it too - that would save a lot of time.

Originally Posted by Dengue

Thanks Steve, I really appreciate your helpful comments and suggestions. Yes, this is the second blade, from a different manufacturer.

The problem is not the supplier, he has been good, but Laguna themselves. Neither the supplier nor myself have received any response from them. Apparently this is par for the course.

Will measure the angle of the flat of the blade tomorrow. I just spent this morning aligning the guides, and will have to back them off to do this . They are pretty flimsy and hard to get right. If only they had made them microadjusting.

Also found today the dust collection leaves a lot to be desired, with a lot of it falling outside the 4" outlet and hose connected to my DC.

Would love to have a brake on it too - that would save a lot of time.

I went through similar dramas for 7 weeks when I first got my bandsaw. And mine also had a bowed table, to boot. I know what it feels like. Having paid your $ and got it set up, you want to use it, not work on it.
I'm surprised that Laguna haven't replied yet. Keep pushing.

The reason I suggested checking the blade alignment is that to my way of thinking, if the blade is parallel with the mitre slot, the teeth might have an uneven set or be sharper on one side than the other, causing the drift, but since you've tried different blades already....
I'd still check blade alignment, though, because it could be fine until it comes into contact with the guides during a cut, and they might be directing it off-course. (Just sort of thinking out loud.)

I meant to add - the inadequate dust collection on the bandsaw is normal. I have to clean mine out regularly and clean the tyres and I've heard of many others mentioning the same problem.

Originally Posted by Dengue

Today I started from scratch again on my new Laguna 14/12 bandsaw setup. I removed the guides, removed the table, and untensioned the new 3/4" bimetal blade amd moved it so it sat in the middle of the lower flywheel. Then fully tensioned the blade ( according to the tension gauge on the saw), and the adjusted for coplanar by using the tracking knob on the rear of the upper flywheel until both wheels were surprisingly perfectly coplanar, as measured along the centreline of the two axles, and the blade was sitting nicely in the centre of both tyres as I rotated by hand. GREAT STARTING POINT !!!!


I then adjusted the guides and refitted the table (with great difficulty with the blade already on, lots of twisting in all directions). I then drew a pencil line across the table through the blade line parallel to the mitre slot. I then marked a straight line on a 400mm test piece and ripped along that line by hand ( no fence) until the far side of the table was reached, and then stopped and held the test piece fixed on the table. NOW. THE. BAD. NEWS. With everything all nicely set up and coplanar at full tension, the test piece had veered way to the left by 10mm off the pencil line at the end of the table i.e., 10 mm in just 200mm. That is some drift !!! It indicated , according to Michael Fortune's articles that the blade on the upper flywheel is set too far back. So using the tracking wheel again, I moved the blade forward ( thereby losing any coplanar, but that is normal, coplanar to me is only a starting point), but was unable to get it so there was zero drift, without the blade points projecting beyond the outer rim of the flywheel.


Any suggestions as to what to try next, please? All I want to do is have zero drift and the fence, blade and mitre slot all parallel. Surely this is not an unreasonable expectation for a Laguna bandsaw?

Dengy,

All blades have drift. We must set the fence to accommodate that drift.

I am sure my problem is the blade and not the saw. My Resaw King seems to have either the teeth brazed out of position or they are damaged on one side. the other blade has a twist, and they are both brand new. You may have the same issue.

I intend to order a new TCt blade today (needed a backup anyway). All will be revealed very soon.

Cheerio!

John.

Originally Posted by Hermit

I meant to add - the inadequate dust collection on the bandsaw is normal. I have to clean mine out regularly and clean the tyres and I've heard of many others mentioning the same problem.

Not to get too far off topic but have you cracked open the door during use to allow air in? All BS's have the same problem, no air goes in and none comes out therefore the debris stay in the cabinet. Get rid of the grid if you haven't as that will restrict the airflow by a lot.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Not to get too far off topic but have you cracked open the door during use to allow air in? All BS's have the same problem, no air goes in and none comes out therefore the debris stay in the cabinet. Get rid of the grid if you haven't as that will restrict the airflow by a lot.

Some way to let air in sounds like a good idea. I haven't tried running mine with the door slightly ajar. It has microswitches on both doors to disable operation unless they're fully closed, but that could easily be shorted across for a test.

I've considered setting up dust extraction directly below the table insert & lower guides, but never got around to it.

Sorry Dengue, back on track now.....

One coul be crude and brutal and drill holes in the lower door.

The way I am feeling about this bloody BS at the moment, I could gleefully cut a 4" hole in the door with an oxy torch

This morning I stumbled down to a local saw place (recommended by a forum member) and bought a 1" 2 TPI (variable pitch) bi-metal saw for the Laguna.

Ten minutes to get the blade on and to set guides.

One minute to set the drift angle on the fence to zero.

Then I re-sawed a 260 mm wide piece of 14 mm MDF. It was just about perfect. The problem was the blades. I got two new blades ... both of them were crook.

So, now to convince the supplier to either sharpen or replace the Re-Saw King blade, which gives a beautifully smooth cut ... as good as a good TCT blade on a table saw.

The Laguna hums like a well oiled sewing machine. I have fallen back in love with it again.

I said in another post that the book that came with my Hafco BS was useless

Well I have been doing some reorganizing and decided to check out said saw.

On the back is an adjustment for the verticallity of the top wheel, I will check
this wheel when I ste up the saw, now that i know how to do it!!!

I also noted the adjustment that is available for the bottom wheel. Thanks to
this thread and others I will also have an optic there!!!

Think I might finally get the beast sorted!! Only have to look in the right direction
and ask the right questions!

Originally Posted by Dengue

The way I am feeling about this bloody BS at the moment, I could gleefully cut a 4" hole in the door with an oxy torch

Dengy,

Your problem always sounded like a blade issue to me ... both times. If I got two crook blades, so can you.

When I turn my Laguna on, especially with the Laguna blade on it, the blade appears as a stationery, vertical black line. There is virtually zip movement in the blade as the saw runs.

The bi-metal blade is not quite so good, but far better that I ever achieved on my old saw.

Is possible you are cursing the saw when the issue is still the blade?

Best of luck!

Hi John, I am very happy for you, and impressed with the saw: "the blade appears as a stationery, vertical black line" WOW!!!

I am glad that you have finally sorted it out.

A bit of a worry about two carbide tipped blades from Laguna being crook.

Originally Posted by Dengue

Hi John, I am very happy for you, and impressed with the saw: "the blade appears as a stationery, vertical black line" WOW!!!

I am glad that you have finally sorted it out.

A bit of a worry about two carbide tipped blades from Laguna being crook.

The supplier tells me they got a batch of Laguna Re-Saw King blades where some had teeth not centred on the blade ... that's what my problem sounds like. I swap it for a new blade tomorrow.

The other crook blade was a carbon steel blade ... it had a twist and now resides in the garbage bin.

So, sometime tomorrow I should be cutting 1 mm veneers off a board ... just because I can.

Hang tough, Dengy. It is a great machine ... once you find and kill the gremlin you have.