Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Ipswich
    Posts
    103

    Default Resaw blade BP355?

    Been asked by a mate if I could resaw some reclaimed hardwood for exterior stairs, so I've been looking for a suitable blade. Was thinking TCT would be the way to go as bi-metal probably wouldn't get the job done.

    Max width for this saw is 25mm, so looking at 19 and I can't see anyone offering anything this small. 27mm seems to be the smallest that's available?.

    The one possible option is the Resaw King from Gregmach which says it's for most 14" bandsaws but doesn't offer any details. Seeing mixed reviews of this brand so not overly keen.

    I'll ring Henry Bros tomorrow to see if they offer a viable option, but would much prefer to hear your opinions / experiences...

    Cheers

    Craig

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Kendenup, WA.
    Age
    60
    Posts
    250

    Default

    I'll be interested in hearing from others about this as I have the same bandsaw and am looking for a blade for resawing Jarrah which is typically pretty hard on blades.

    I see a place called 'Bandsaw supplies' makes blades to order and offer a TCT blade 20mmx0.9x2750 for $219.45 here-------> Straight Set Tungsten Carbides – 20mm x 0.9 – Bandsaw Supplies

    Not cheap but resawing Jarrah with standard blades seems to kill them pretty quickly. Has anyone dealt with these guys?

    Also Henry Bros states in their website that they only show the most common sizes and many others are available upon enquiry.

    So, as I said I'm all ears as well.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    You don’t actually have to have tungsten. In my experience, a well tuned and sharp steel blade will cut just as well, cost much, much less to buy, and cost a lot less to sharpen. This “you must have tct blade” is a crock. The reason many people dull blades when resawing is they feed them too slowly, make the saw work hard, push it, get the gullets clear and it will cut fine.
    Just go to Henry Bros. they know bandsaw stuff better than anyone.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    I have the 355 and can say it will not tension a 25mm blade. Tried it and the cut wandered. I have cut up to the max depth with a 3 tpi 16mm blade and it will keep a strait cut. Has to be nice and sharp.
    Sharpening a Bandsaw Blade - YouTube
    Saw that clip a few years ago and been using the method since then. They are as sharp as he claims. I get 2 and sometimes more sharpens from a blade before it's lost its set. There are other ways but that one is the quickest.
    Regards
    John

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Ipswich
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    “you must have tct blade”
    I hadn't heard this, I was just thinking a tct blade would get the job done without needing sharpening.

    John, that's by far the simplest method I've seen on the tube, will probably give that a go with my current 1/2" blade.

    Anyway I forgot to ring Henry Bros yesterday, rang today and ordered two bi-metal woodmasters, have to wait and see if it gets the job done.

    Cheers guys

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    162

    Default

    I use this method for sharpening blades Easy Band Saw Sharpening Jig - YouTube except I use a diamond cut-off wheel which I buy off ebay for about $1 each, in 10x packs.

    I use 1/2" 3TPI BiMetal Woodmaster H on a Laguna 14BX for re-saw, or a 3/4" woodmaster B 1.3 TPI on a 20" wadkin for the bigger stuff.

    If timber is super tough, Kerf it on the tablesaw first, then cut along the kerf with the bandsaw. The bandsaw will follow the line of least resistance

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Whangarei, New Zealand
    Age
    70
    Posts
    282

    Default

    Funny, I do all my resawing (on an 18" Jet BS) with 6mm 8tpi high carbon blades.
    Works a treat. I've done jarrah, purple heart, and saligna on it, not to mention softwoods.
    I order the blades to length from the local tool shop or Thode in Auckland.

    The only problem I ever have is as soon as my wife goes near the BS, the blades go
    'bang'. She swears she's doing everything right and by the book. {scratches head}

    -Peter

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    193

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by T91 View Post
    I use this method for sharpening blades Easy Band Saw Sharpening Jig - YouTube except I use a diamond cut-off wheel which I buy off ebay for about $1 each, in 10x packs.

    I use 1/2" 3TPI BiMetal Woodmaster H on a Laguna 14BX for re-saw, or a 3/4" woodmaster B 1.3 TPI on a 20" wadkin for the bigger stuff.

    If timber is super tough, Kerf it on the tablesaw first, then cut along the kerf with the bandsaw. The bandsaw will follow the line of least resistance
    I like the look of that sharpening method. Dont even have to take the blade off the saw.
    Regards
    John

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    I have a 19mm Lennox Trimaster TCT blade from Henry Bros and it cuts everything fron cabinet timbers to hardwood sleepers and firewood and has been doing so for the last four years without sharpening. It lives on the saw and gets used to cut everything, even Aluminium when needed. As expensive as it was for what it has done over the years I think it is a bargain.
    CHRIS

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    warrnambool
    Posts
    31

    Default

    despite the odd negative review with the RK and after experiencing the parting of the ways of a 'standard' 12mm blade from Henry bros I presented the RK cost to the chief accountant for approval and I have now installed it. I have resawn Oregon and Vic Ash with RK and would say the results on my Laguna 14bx is outstanding( that is by observation and measure). I am interested to know if any members have recommendations on the narrower blades?

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    162

    Default

    I am the member responsible for the machine workshop at the Woodcraft Guild of the ACT. We have a 10" Carbatec, 2x Laguna`14BX, a WadkinBZB500 (20"), a Woodfast 14" horizontal resaw, and a 14hp Hardwoodmills sawmill. I do 90% of the maintenance on the machines, and am responsible for quality checking for the bits and pieces I don't do. I do all the blade ordering (about 40 or 50 blades per year I'd say), and the members will generally get me to set the machine up and test before they mutilate their expensive piece of timber. The musical instrument makers almost always get me to reset the machine and test it, before they make their cut, because no saw can be in any guaranteed state after several tens of users have been using it since I last reset it.

    We have 400 odd members of widely varying skill levels, so I am often called on to supervise re-sawing, or teach technique etc.

    I think I have tried every carbon steel blade that will fit on a Laguna, and they all perform well if sharp and clean. No blade will perform well if dirty.

    Based on experience I use 3/8 4TPI carbon steel on one Laguna because it is a good all round blade for general purpose work. When I need a machine for general purpose re-sawing, I change the blade on this specific machine to a 1/2" Bi-metal 3 TPI which I keep in a drawer when it is not specifically required. I also keep a 5/8 3TPI carbon steel blade in that drawer and a 3/4" 1.3TPI Bi-metal blade, both of which I use on tougher stuff. I keep them in a drawer to (try) make sure they are used for cutting straight lines rather than curves. Curve cutting tends to have a higher probability of creating kinks and uneven wear, which makes re-saw work more difficult. The 5/8" blade has smaller teeth & gullets and a bigger "back" and will produce a finer cut if the wood is not too pitchy or hard. The 3/4" blade is for things which are too hard or pitchy

    On the other Laguna 14BX I always have a 1/2" 3TPI Bi_metal. This machine will invariably be used by wood turners who cut thickish timbers like Grey Ironbark and put a lot of side pressure on the blade, because they round off blanks and such. This means that one side of the teeth will generally be more worn than the other. That specific machine will always have its table & fence knocked out of line, and will be difficult to re-saw with, without a new(ish) blade and a total setup from scratch. That specific machine will also usually have problems because of the buildup of pitch and sawdust glued to the tire rubber because of the nature of the work it does.

    My advice for before re-sawing on a Luguna 14BX is to
    1) throw away the rubber tires and get Carter Blues or some other good quality tire
    2) Always clean the tires
    3) Always clean the guides
    4) Be absolutely fastidious with the thrust guides. They make an enormous difference to the quality of the cut.
    5) Make certain the side guides are not deflecting the back edge of the blade
    6) Make a test cut to make sure the fence is parallel with the direction the blade wants to cut.
    7) Use a clean, sharp blade with enough gullet that it is clearing the chips.
    8) Use enough dust control suction to clear the dust from the guides during the cut.
    10) Always ensure the tension is correct. Use finger deflection on the spine side of the blade. Never use the strain gauge.

    11) use your abdomen to push the work-piece and the push stick. It provides a smoother feed, which will produce a smoother cut.
    12) always use a jig to hold the work against the fence, with pressure just in front of the teeth (or some one you trust with a pressure stick).

    At home I have a 16" 2HP H&F BP16A W430 - BP-16A Wood Band Saw | Hare & Forbes Machineryhouse which I bought 2nd hand for $150. Its not a particularly flash machine, but it does the job if kept clean. I keep a 3/8 4tpi carbon, a 1/2" 3TPI Bi-metal, and a 3/4" 1.3tpi Bi-metal on hand, and between them, they do everything I want. Last night I re-sawed some 50 year old rift-sawn 200mm x 40mm Blakeney's Red Gum with the 3/4" blade, and it did a good job, pretty easily.

    all that is probably a lot more than you wanted to know. I got carried away...

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    warrnambool
    Posts
    31

    Default 14BX Band saw dust extraction

    Quote Originally Posted by T91 View Post
    I am the member responsible for the machine workshop at the Woodcraft Guild of the ACT. We have a 10" Carbatec, 2x Laguna`14BX, a WadkinBZB500 (20"), a Woodfast 14" horizontal resaw, and a 14hp Hardwoodmills sawmill. I do 90% of the maintenance on the machines, and am responsible for quality checking for the bits and pieces I don't do. I do all the blade ordering (about 40 or 50 blades per year I'd say), and the members will generally get me to set the machine up and test before they mutilate their expensive piece of timber. The musical instrument makers almost always get me to reset the machine and test it, before they make their cut, because no saw can be in any guaranteed state after several tens of users have been using it since I last reset it.

    We have 400 odd members of widely varying skill levels, so I am often called on to supervise re-sawing, or teach technique etc.

    I think I have tried every carbon steel blade that will fit on a Laguna, and they all perform well if sharp and clean. No blade will perform well if dirty.

    Based on experience I use 3/8 4TPI carbon steel on one Laguna because it is a good all round blade for general purpose work. When I need a machine for general purpose re-sawing, I change the blade on this specific machine to a 1/2" Bi-metal 3 TPI which I keep in a drawer when it is not specifically required. I also keep a 5/8 3TPI carbon steel blade in that drawer and a 3/4" 1.3TPI Bi-metal blade, both of which I use on tougher stuff. I keep them in a drawer to (try) make sure they are used for cutting straight lines rather than curves. Curve cutting tends to have a higher probability of creating kinks and uneven wear, which makes re-saw work more difficult. The 5/8" blade has smaller teeth & gullets and a bigger "back" and will produce a finer cut if the wood is not too pitchy or hard. The 3/4" blade is for things which are too hard or pitchy

    On the other Laguna 14BX I always have a 1/2" 3TPI Bi_metal. This machine will invariably be used by wood turners who cut thickish timbers like Grey Ironbark and put a lot of side pressure on the blade, because they round off blanks and such. This means that one side of the teeth will generally be more worn than the other. That specific machine will always have its table & fence knocked out of line, and will be difficult to re-saw with, without a new(ish) blade and a total setup from scratch. That specific machine will also usually have problems because of the buildup of pitch and sawdust glued to the tire rubber because of the nature of the work it does.

    My advice for before re-sawing on a Luguna 14BX is to
    1) throw away the rubber tires and get Carter Blues or some other good quality tire
    2) Always clean the tires
    3) Always clean the guides
    4) Be absolutely fastidious with the thrust guides. They make an enormous difference to the quality of the cut.
    5) Make certain the side guides are not deflecting the back edge of the blade
    6) Make a test cut to make sure the fence is parallel with the direction the blade wants to cut.
    7) Use a clean, sharp blade with enough gullet that it is clearing the chips.
    8) Use enough dust control suction to clear the dust from the guides during the cut.
    10) Always ensure the tension is correct. Use finger deflection on the spine side of the blade. Never use the strain gauge.

    11) use your abdomen to push the work-piece and the push stick. It provides a smoother feed, which will produce a smoother cut.
    12) always use a jig to hold the work against the fence, with pressure just in front of the teeth (or some one you trust with a pressure stick).

    At home I have a 16" 2HP H&F BP16A W430 - BP-16A Wood Band Saw | Hare & Forbes Machineryhouse which I bought 2nd hand for $150. Its not a particularly flash machine, but it does the job if kept clean. I keep a 3/8 4tpi carbon, a 1/2" 3TPI Bi-metal, and a 3/4" 1.3tpi Bi-metal on hand, and between them, they do everything I want. Last night I re-sawed some 50 year old rift-sawn 200mm x 40mm Blakeney's Red Gum with the 3/4" blade, and it did a good job, pretty easily.

    all that is probably a lot more than you wanted to know. I got carried away...
    Thank you T91 for sharing your experience and time you put in at the CWG.
    I set up my workshop five years ago and in that time I have battled with the 14BX mainly I think because I was a 'greenhorn' with bandsaws.
    I did not understand it was essential to pay such attention to the guide adjustments. At present it would seem the best way to do this is to remove the table when changing blades? Do you favour any particular type of guides?
    Your points about retuning, keeping blades sharp and also keeping detritus from clogging up the cutting area are well taken. Do you have extra dust extraction centred around the cutting area on the 14BX machines you tend? I have never been satisfied with the extraction on the Laguna.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    162

    Default

    I dont like extraction on the Laguna 14BX, but then our 2 machines share a common line with a drum sander and a linisher hooked up to a H&F DC7, which also services 4x lathes on the other 2 lines.

    The Luguna needs some extra shielding/shrouding around the bottom of the table insert to improve the dust collection. I find that the lower guides are constantly fouled... but then again, they are a high use shared machine in our environment.

    To change a blade/service etc this is the procedure I use. I have taught the other guys to use this procedure and they have readily adopted it because it works.

    Remove the power plug from the wall
    Attach a magnet to the outer case above the height adjustment if you dont already have one
    Remove the throat plate and sit on top of the machine case, place the screw on the magnet
    Remove the table leveling pin, put on top of the throat plate
    Remove the fence
    Undo the upper thrust guide and push the guide block back
    Drop the dust shroud
    open the doors
    Undo the table tilt locks
    release the tension quick release
    grab the bottom of the upper wheel with both hands and use your weight until the blade separates from the wheel.
    take off the blade (push down thru the slot on the spine side, pop out of the lower guide, then rotate the spine side past the door back and fence bar)
    Fold the blade and put away.
    Tilt the table 45 degrees
    Remove the inner locating bolt from the lower guide
    Set the table flat
    Remove the outer locating bolt from the lower guide
    Remove the lower guide carriage assembly from the machine
    Blow out the dust from the machine body where the lower guide assembly will sit (and anywhere else you can see)
    pop the thrust guide out of the lower guide block and give the whole thing a clean with a tooth brush.

    Install the desired blade onto the wheels. This is usually best done by hanging it on the top wheel, slipping it on the bottom, then taking up the slack using the quick release lever and rotating the upper wheel by hand till it is staying on under tension.

    Correctly tension the blade. 5 or 6 mm deflection on the spine side without turning your finger seriously white is about right.

    Track the blade. I track the gullet onto the front of the crown, Snodgrass style Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube

    set the gap between the lower side guides by placing the (cleaned) carrier in the throat plate cutout and using the blade inside the guides. I set the gap so I cant hear scraping when I rotate the wheels by hand.

    Once you have the gap set, replace the thrust pin in the carrier block in its fully retracted position.
    Place the carrier on the machine body so you can see the slots line up with the bolt holes through the throat gap.
    Tilt the table and insert the inner (long) locating bolt, finger tight
    Lower the table and insert the outer (short) locating bolt, finger tight
    Slide the carrier plate forward so that the whites of the ceramic are just behind the gullets. You will see this best through the throat in the plate.
    Rotate the upper wheel thru 2x full blade rotations. The effect of this is to center the loose guides on the path of the blade, allow for crappy welds etc
    Tighten the inner and outer locating bolts without disturbing the carrier plate.
    Push the thrust ceramic up to the back of the blade.
    Rotate the blade thru a full rotation to let it knock the pin back, then tighten the locating bolt.If it is sticky, just set it at double the thickness of a $5 note

    Lower the upper guide to about 4 or 5" off the table. The shaft never moves parallel to the blade, so this is good height for avg error.
    lock the shaft as this will move the entire carriage forward a few mm
    Push the thrust post thru till it contacts the back of the blade, then set the relief by wheel rotation or the $5 gap, & lock it in place.
    Slide the upper guide block forward on the thrust post till the ceramics are just behind the gullets. Lock the guide block in place on the thrust post.
    Release both guide side movement pins and move the guides out from the blade.
    Using your left hand slide the inner guide back to the blade so it has about a $5 note gap to the blade. You can move it closer if you are good enough, but you cannot have it touching the blade as it might deflect the rear of the blade. Lock it with your right hand.
    Repeat the process for the outer upper guide.
    Verify by hand rotation that the side guides are not fouling the blade (by listening)

    Put the table pin and throat plate back
    lock the table tilt,
    close the doors
    slide the dust shroud up.

    Do not attach the fence yet, do a test cut checking for drift. (If you need to know how to do a test cut Ill cover that separately).
    If the blade is cutting so that the test piece is closer to the spine on the operator side than the out feed side, it is toe in... The blade needs to move back on the upper wheel. Turn the tracking control 5 min clockwise and retest. If its toe out, 5 min anti clockwise and retest.

    When the test piece cuts parallel to the throat plate's side, hit the foot brake without moving the straight side of the test piece.
    Install the fence from the spine side and set it parallel to the test piece's straight side.
    Check your thrust guide settings and gullet clearance if you have moved the blade to a different tracking setting.

    The machine is now set up for re-saw.

    If you do this a dozen or so times, it will become 2nd nature. I go thru "the procedure" every time I change a blade, and that can be several times a day.
    The other machines follow the same general procedural concept, although exact sequences etc change for different designs.

    In General.
    take off Everything
    Clean it
    Tension the blade
    Track the blade
    set the lower guide, inside before outside
    set the upper guide, inside first
    test to see nothing flies off
    test to see its cutting straight
    install the fence parallel to the test cut

    Best of luck with it.
    T91

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Hi T91,
    in the previous post you say "...Turn the tracking control 5 min clockwise and retest. If its toe out, 5 min anti clockwise and retest."
    What does 5 min mean?
    I haven't seen this term before, but I am familiar with degrees (360 degrees = 1 full turn) and turns (e.g. 1/4 of a full turn)
    Thanks
    Paul
    New Zealand

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 5th March 2018, 12:00 PM
  2. Replies: 15
    Last Post: 10th February 2017, 11:03 PM
  3. 1.3 TPI resaw blade problems
    By Redgy in forum BANDSAWS
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 26th March 2014, 02:14 PM
  4. Resaw blade for bandsaw newbie
    By Astrodog in forum BANDSAWS
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 10th July 2012, 08:28 AM
  5. Thin kerf resaw blade
    By bloggs1968 in forum BANDSAWS
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 14th March 2006, 06:15 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •