Thread: Resaw Cradle

Nice pics John - thanks for posting.

Just some tips about stickering (the sticks that go in between the slabs)
To reduce warping while drying use a minimum of 3 stickers - even on very short logs. One each right up almost at each end and one in the middle.
If you decide to clamp, then stickers should be placed along or close to the line of the clamping action.

Hope you can get the BS going again OK.

Good thread!!
Have nothing to add as what John and Bob say is really good.

Thanks for the tip Bobl, just cut some more stickers and sat a lump of wood on top to give some weight.

The big log will have to wait for the weekend ...

John,

I just had a closer look at the cradle and when making those first few facce cuts there does not appear to be anything to stop the log from rotating in its cradle. I know it's not all that likely but if there is enough tension in the log, it could split/twist and grab the blade. Then the log will try and rotate and bend the blade - all in all not a good combination.

On my resaw rig even though it's for a TS, I grab the log quite forcefully at the ends and this stops the logs from rotating. Of course this limits the size of the log that can be tackled but there are other ways of doing this

Originally Posted by BobL

I just had a closer look at the cradle and when making those first few facce cuts there does not appear to be anything to stop the log from rotating in its cradle.

Bob,
I think jchappo said he put a couple of lag screws into the side of the log through slots in the fence. Should be OK... unless he runs into them with the blade!
Nice setup btw.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

Bob,
I think jchappo said he put a couple of lag screws into the side of the log through slots in the fence. Should be OK... unless he runs into them with the blade!
Nice setup btw.

Cheers,

OK - I thought he was talking about mounting the fence to the table.

I too was interested in the rotational problem.
Interested to see how you refine it.

The cradle is constructed as two parts:

1:
Flat base board with guide to run in mitre slot and two dados for the fence assembly to run in. Also, a 3/8 threaded insert for the top locking knob.

2:
The L shaped fence which supports the log. This has two parallel runners to fit the dados in the base and a slot for the locking knob. The four vertical slots in the upright fence are for coarse threaded screws to go through into the log.
For added strength, the two centre ribs are solid timber and screwed through from the bottom and the front, with hand grips to aid with handling.

In use, the weight of the log is taken on the base, and secured to the fence with the screws.
After each cut, the top fence assembly is unlocked and moved closer to the blade.

If the uneveness of the log means that it is unsupported on the base, it is a simple matter to loosen the screws and let gravity settle it on the base before re-tightening the screws.

Bobl, I like the table saw cradle. I had considered supporting the log at the ends as you have done, but it added a lot of complexity to what was supposed to be a simple jig.

The size of the cradle theoretically can handle a log of 250mm diameter, 750mm long, but I don't think the bandsaw could cope - let alone me trying to lift it up to the table.

After cutting the first small log, I realised the vertical fence could be lower as it interferes with the blade guides on the last few slices, and it only needs to be as tall as half the logs diameter, which is where the screws attach.

Oops! Sorry to waffle on - thanks for your interest.