Thread: Resaw finish?

In my experience, that's a little worse than I get, but not by a lot.

I have considered buying one of those fancy carbide or stellite tipped blades but the cost is so high I doubt I can justify it given my output level!

Hello
So guessing you have crowned tires then if you referred to Snodgrass.
What does the other side of the cut look like?

Tom

A 3 TPI pitch is always going to leave deep score marks; you are using a resaw blade whose only job is to rough dimension timber quickly. Each groove is a single tooth carving through the wood and with a nice deep gullet in front it can take a big shaving. If you want a finer finish look at an 8 TPI, but accept that your rate of cut is going to be half what the resaw blade is giving you; and pushing it hard will cause it to start binding and/or burning.

Crowned? Wheel is pretty flat. Was more talking about guide setup etc


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The are a number of factors which govern a good finish.

The obvious one is having enough tension on the blade. A floppy blade will move back-and-forth.

Another is setting the guides - also to limit movement, both side-to-side and to the rear.

A third is the blade itself: worn blades cause one to push harder than needed, and this causes more blade movement; too many teeth load up the gullets with sawdust and push the blade around the kerf. Errand teeth (chipped or too much set) will leave marks. Carbide blades are best, but basically because they remain sharper for longer.

Type of blade: wider is better for re-sawing. Yes, you can re-saw with a 1/4" wide blade, but it is less effort to do so with a 1" wide blade. My re-saw blade is a Lenox Woodmaster CT (carbon) 1" with 1.3 tpi. To use a blade like this the bandsaw must be capable of high tensioning. The frame needs to be very solid and rigid. Chinese bandsaws are not. Then there is the size of the bandsaw wheel. Anything under 16" would be a no-no as the blades are thick and do not like the bend of a smaller wheel. My Hammer N4400 has an 18" wheel.

Technique: This is a common issue - pushing the wood though the blade too fast. It will cause the gullet to load up and the blade to wander.

The fence: In conjunction with some timbers, the fence can present a problem. Essentially, when cut, wood moves. Some timbers have much internal tensions and want to move more. If you are pushing along the fence and the kerf wants to open up, the one side will push the board away from the fence. This leads to a rough cut. The solution is either to use a single point fence, or a half (shortened) fence.

Re-saw finish in 10" high Jarrah ...



Regards from Perth

Derek