Thread: resaw king bandsaw blades

More information: what is the width of the blade, number of teeth, how much tension used, in which bandsaw, how new is the blade, what wood are you sawing, how deep is the cut .... ???

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hello Derek The saw is Hammer4400 the blade is 1" the tension is good and problem is in all timbers and widths the blade is new purchased a year ago never used
I was wondering id anyone has similar problems. All accounts give this blade a good report I have tried everything I can think might be wrong with my setup all other blades are fine
the runout is so dramatic I have no idea

It may be the blade. It may be the machine. I have the 4400 as well. Check whether the rubber band from the motor is taut. They do loosen over time. If that happens, you get less power. Less power means you push harder on the blade, and they will cause it to wander - which is what you were describing. A dull blade will do the same.

I guess what I am saying is first ensure that the set up is not the problem. That then leaves the blade. I don't have experience with the Resaw King, but it comes with a great reputation. Something is off.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'm not an expert on bandsaws or blades but I have a resaw king on my Laguna LT18 and I have not had any issues with drift so this doesn't sound right; it certainly isn't normal for the blade (at least not mine) so it's either defective or it's something to do with the setup.

I have been using my resaw king for nearly everything for a couple of years now (I pretty much never swap it out) and it isn't as sharp as my carbon steel or bimetal blades - requiring more pressure for the same cut, but the cut is clean and doesn't drift.

I just re-sawed a few 190mm tassie oak boards and get a great finish straight from the blade - tried to take a shot that shows the light saw marks as clearly/in the worst light possible. Removed about 0.1-0.2 mm with a No.4 to get rid of any trace of saw marks.

20170928_204051.jpg

Cheers,

Dom

Originally Posted by derekcohen

It may be the blade. It may be the machine. I have the 4400 as well. Check whether the rubber band from the motor is taut. They do loosen over time. If that happens, you get less power. Less power means you push harder on the blade, and they will cause it to wander - which is what you were describing. A dull blade will do the same.

I guess what I am saying is first ensure that the set up is not the problem. That then leaves the blade. I don't have experience with the Resaw King, but it comes with a great reputation. Something is off.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Not the set up I am sure I am taking the blade to Gregorys tomorrow to see what they say I dont have confidence in them. I buy my blades from Combined saw and knife now they are the experts and guarantee everything they supply . Thanks for your replies Derek

Thanks for your reply Dom I have heard great things about this blade as well just unlucky I guess the real problem is the third party reseller

When the Laguna 14/12 first hit the Ozzie market there were some problems reported and some unhappy owners of these blades. A search of these fora should bring some up, I recall it was to do with sharpness but I might be wrong.

The teeth hate sitting on the tyre.

Have them overhang off the edge, but only the teeth and only just.

image.pngimage.png

Originally Posted by marcoolabob

Hello Derek The saw is Hammer4400 the blade is 1" the tension is good and problem is in all timbers and widths the blade is new purchased a year ago never used
I was wondering id anyone has similar problems. All accounts give this blade a good report I have tried everything I can think might be wrong with my setup all other blades are fine
the runout is so dramatic I have no idea

Hammer say 20mm is maximum width blade. See attachment.

I use a 1" resaw blade on my N4400 without any problems. I think that the 20mm restriction was made with early versions only.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I use a 1" resaw blade on my N4400 without any problems. I think that the 20mm restriction was made with early versions only.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, how old is your machine?

My N4400 is 6 years old.

Mostly I use 1/2" 3 tpi bimetal blades for everyday stuff. The 1" resaw blade is a Lenox Woodmaster bimetal 1.3 tpi.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I have been doing a little digging into resaw blades. Mainly because I have not been happy with the 1" Lenox Woodmaster I am using - which is the CT version, that is, carbide and not bimetal. The cut is perfectly straight, however the finish is rougher than I expected. I have just discovered that it cannot be resharpened ... which I have done, so kaput blade! (It is cutting, and straight - today I was resawing 9" thick USA Hard Maple - but probably no better than a carbon steel blade).

I am now looking into the Resaw King, which comes with a great reputation as well as the ability to be resharpened 4 times. No cheap ($360 for the 4400). EDIT TO ADD: It appears that there may not be anyone in Oz to sharpen the RK blades! Sending them to the USA each time appears an expensive option. Anyone with recommendations here?

Here is a comparison of the two blades: Resaw King or Woodmaster CT ?

Based on the linked thread, I suspect that the OP's RK is faulty, and should be sent back.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I have been doing a little digging into resaw blades. Mainly because I have not been happy with the 1" Lenox Woodmaster I am using - which is the CT version, that is, carbide and not bimetal. The cut is perfectly straight, however the finish is rougher than I expected. I have just discovered that it cannot be resharpened ... which I have done, so kaput blade! (It is cutting, and straight - today I was resawing 9" thick USA Hard Maple - but probably no better than a carbon steel blade).

I am now looking into the Resaw King, which comes with a great reputation as well as the ability to be resharpened 4 times. No cheap ($360 for the 4400). EDIT TO ADD: It appears that there may not be anyone in Oz to sharpen the RK blades! Sending them to the USA each time appears an expensive option. Anyone with recommendations here?

Here is a comparison of the two blades: Resaw King or Woodmaster CT ?

Based on the linked thread, I suspect that the OP's RK is faulty, and should be sent back.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I was just wondering if there was anyone in Australia who could resharpen the Resaw King myself. Otherwise I wonder if it would be possible to resharpen the blade using a jig and diamond plate as shown in the last Australian Wood Review magazine?

Has anyone found out if Henry Bros or MvDiven saws can re-sharpen these blades? I recently had my table saw and track saw blades (FLAI & Festool) resharpened locally and they came back cutting better than new, however they could not resharpen carbide band-saw blades.

Cheers,

Dom