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  1. #1
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    Jan 2013
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    Default Resawing problems with makita 16" bandsaw

    Hello - I purchased a Makita 16" bandsaw about a year ago in a pawnshop in the Dallas, Texas USA area. It looked to have very little use, with a 2" blade, and all original parts. I purchased a new blade, and installed upper and lower bearing-type guides to replace the original phenolic-type guides. I have attempted to re-saw 1/4" slats from 4" x 4" cedar, and to my disappointment, after a few cuts, the blade starts to drift, and seems to be having a difficult time cutting through the relatively soft cedar. I have tensioned the blade to the max, so I am searching for a cure for the problem. I would have maybe expected problems with re-sawing 6" thick oak, etc. - but the soft cedar has me stumped. Would a 1" blade have less drag, and be tensioned more? Any help will be greatly appreciated!

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Katoomba NSW
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    Default

    The Makita Re-saw should eat that cedar. How much tension is actually on the blade? If you push the side of the blade with your finger (guide all the way up) how much deflection do you get? What tooth pattern is on the new blade?
    I'm thinking either the new blade is too long and not getting enough tension or it is a very fine tooth blade that is clogging in the soft cedar.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
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    Default

    A 2'' blade would seem very large for a 16'' saw. How thick are the wheel rims? The tensioner perhaps cant handle that blade. A 1'' blade sounds like a better option with more chance of getting enough tension. I use a 3/4'' blade on my 14'' saw to resaw very hard Australian timbers and can cut 10'' thick (all the depth the machine has) reasonably well. I use a 3 tpi blade for ripping. Bandsawing is a bit of a learning curve for new players so google some stuff like bandsaw tuneing, ripping, and anything else you can find on the subject.
    Regards
    John

  5. #4
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    Jan 2007
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    Katoomba NSW
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    Default

    I just found some more info on this saw.
    Orraloon it is a special resaw bandsaw, designed for very wide blades, however, the original Makita blades were very thin and flexible. The tension mechanism may not be able to apply enough tension on your new blade which will be thicker than the original.
    Makita 16" Resaw Bandsaw
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    boston
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    574

    Default

    Mostly, it is caused by dull blade, undertensioned or overtensioned. But in your case, I suspect
    that reason behind your problem might be the fence, blade drift or feed rate.




    BandSawBlog | News, reviews and articles about band saw blades and partsBandSawBlog | News, reviews and articles about band saw blades and parts

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    kallangur qld
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    Default

    If you have new blades (how many TPI ??) , bearing guides, as stated, I would look at the saw set-up, as well.

    As the other members have said check the blade tension, but I would also look closely at the saw set-up.

    Have a look at the ALEX SNODGRASS U-TUBE Video on saw set-up, as I noted above how many TPI is the blade, ??
    3-6 TPI for re-sawing , I use 6 on my small bench saw with good results.

    As has been said Band sawing , is a learn as you go exercise , so do not be afraid to play with the machine set-up , to achieve what you need.

    Jeff
    vk4

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    blue mountains
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    gettonna,
    Having just looked at the pics posted by NCArcher I will have to take back what I said about the blade width as it is made to run a 2'' blade. The number of teeth will matter so you need 4tpi or less (that works for me). You mentioned fitting bearing blade guides so could you post a pic of them. The plastic guides in the pics i have seen look like they support the full width of the blade and perhaps the roller ones dont. On my first saw I used wood blocks as blade guides and that worked fine. It may be worth a try putting the old blade guides back on. If the faces are worn out of square then use a file to get them back in shape.
    Regards
    John

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
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    Default

    This is a 2" 1.5 tpi blade with every other tooth carbide tipped. It's getting dull and is missing a tip or two. Don't be tempted to replace it with a bandsaw mill blade; they're too heavy for the saw's tension system to bring straight.

    I can't imagine a bearing system that would match the plastic guides ... I think guides can be a very important part in resawing without drift.
    If you only steer the front of the band, then the back has potentially the whole kerf to move side to side.

    Has it been tried with the original guides?

    Cheers,
    Paul



  10. #9
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  11. #10
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    Jan 2013
    Location
    TEXAS USA
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    Default here are some pictures of the Makita Re-saw Bandsaw guides,blade, etc.

    Here are some pictures of my bandsaw. When i replaced the blade, it matched the one that came on the saw-but that may not have been an original type. My current blade is .040 thick, and I believe 2 TPI.P1010583.jpgP1010585.JPG

  12. #11
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    Aug 2009
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    Armadale Perth WA
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    "Makita's original blades are way thinner ( somewhere around 0.0020'' or 0.0025'' ) than most regular wide blades available today"

    If you compare to the photo above with the plastic guides, you will see that the support extends right up to the gullet line.

    Other than possible tension issues, I would certainly suspect the guides.

    See the other thread for rollers that cover the full width of the blade.

    Cheers,
    Paul

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
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    I agree with Paul on the guides.
    Makita 16" Resaw Bandsaw
    This original type guide looks far more practical. If however you dont have the block to mount that then look at finding roller guides that cover more of the blade.
    Regards
    John

  14. #13
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    Yeah ... the other thread had this ... you might be able to do some modifying???



    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/an...21/#post917506

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    TEXAS USA
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    5

    Default Possible solutions for Makita Resaw Bandsaw Problem

    Thanks to everyone for the feedback! I've been searching for a thin[.025"thick] bandsaw blade in 2" width with no luck. The thinnest I can find is .035"[too thick for me to tension]. But if I go back to a 1" blade, it is .025" thick, and I think that my current guides would completely cover a 1" wide blade. I can add a third bearing to my guides to cover a 2" blade - but a 2" blade that I could properly tension doesn't seem to exist on today's market.

  16. #15
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    Keep your eyes and ears out there for one - it's amazing what you can stumble on when you're only 10% looking.


    Cheers,
    Paul

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