Thread: Should I use a Riser?

So you're getting 1/16 veneer resawn with the riser in place?

So what's the problem, or am I missing something?

K, maybe it's the curves. Yes, a much narrower blade is nec. for these and using one with a riser may cause you probs given the twisting forces. But blades are cheap enough so maybe get one and try it out before opting to remove the riser.

HTH

If you are cutting 1/16th with a 3/4" X 6TPI then I would stick with that for making boxes and you can resaw timber over 6inches if ever you need to. If you are going to do curves then you will need a thinner blade and the radius of the curve would dictate the blade that would be most suitable for the curve. You should be able to use your 3'8" blade and cut a reasonable radius. Not sure how a thinner blade such as a 1/4" would perform with a riser but in theory you should be able to cut a tighter radius.
Without the riser, of course the blades will be cheaper but at least with the riser in place you are not restricted to any great degree regarding thickness of the timber you resaw.

Thanks for the reply guys. Been away on a trip and just got back.
I went and bought a 1/4" 4 tpi blade and it seems to work quite well. A bit of drift but I can still cut reasonable depth with this blade. I've been trying out curves and have found some practice is required in making boxes. Good fun though!
I will keep the riser in place for the time being and see how she goes.
Thanks again for your replies.
Terry vk6pq

Two points that I did not see mentioned in other posts that may be relevant to you.

1. With the riser in place, I suspect that rise and fall blade guide/guard system cannot come closer than the riser height gain (6 inches?) from the table. This is fine if you need the riser for the stock width that you are resawing, but it gives the blade a greater degree of movement when cutting thinner materal particularly with narrower less rigid blades for curves.It also leaves more blade exposed to cause potential injuries.

2. re needing new blades if you were to remove the riser, you can have a saw doctor trim the current blades to the shorter length fairly inexexpensively, provided that they are not worn significantly. If they are worn, then replacement is imminent anyway. Blade length with riser would be about 300mm longer than without, the price diference should not be more than about a dollar.

Thanks Malb for your comments. Actually it is a full riser kit that is fitted. That is, the riser block. blade cover on block side and a longer bearing holder rod which makes it possible to have the bearings just millimetres from the base plate or as high as 300mm.
I tried the new 1/4 inch blade but I find it too coarse for small boxes. So I'm going to get a 1/8 inch blade with at least 6 TPI and give that a go. The 1/4 inch blade cost $22 at Carbatec so it's not exactly a fortune.
I'm a bit of a dill when it comes to designing something so I have a book comming which will give me plenty of examples to copy!! Playtime in the shed again!!
Terry vk6pq

If the riser system included provision for full travel guide/guard, and is overall rigid enough to cut thin veneers, you don't really have anything to gain by removing it.

Re blades you say the 1/4in is too coarse. Looking back, you mention a 4tpi 1/4 in blade, so I assume that is what you were refering to. Is the problem you are experiencing related to cutting curves or poor surface finish? For cutting very tight curves, a 1/8th blade is the go, and will need to be a fairly high tooth count because the teeth need to be small to fit into a 1/8 band and leave solid material. However, if the issue is surface finish, you would find a finer 1/4 blade much more durable. Again a saw doctor would be your friend with a decent range of width and pitch combinations to work from.

Thanks Malb, I was using the 1/4 blade on softwood and the finish was quite coarse requiring a lot of sanding with the result of not so close fitting of drawers and lids. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and try the 1/8 blade with multi teeth and see how it goes as I do want to make some quite small boxes with small curves.
The original question about the riser was aimed at the experience of others but as you say if it works OK with the riser it would not be worth removing. Must not forget I'd have to buy new blades too!!
Thanks again
Terry vk6pq