Thread: Ryobi bandsaw

If it is the little 9 inch saw it is a model makers saw. It is not good for hard wood over 1 inch thick. If you are making very small parts it is great. If you are making larger parts or using it for resaw it will not do the job. I would try to put more tension on the blade. It needs a lot and then make sure you get the guides set up ring. I have used the Ryobi at a friends shop making antique repair parts and it works just fine. I think you are having problems with the set up. I have not gone to the web site in a year but look up how to set up a band saw. You will come up with all the information you need. Sorry you are having such a hard time. Hope this helps.

Most bandsaws this size are fairly useless for heavy woodworking or cutting anything other than veneer, pine or styrofoam. Even the Delta and other "quality" brand names that sell these 9" bandsaws dont stack up well.
You need a 14" model or bigger to get any reasonable results. These can be had for around $400 at the major woodworking retailers. I have the SW1401 model from Carbatec and with a bit of work setting up and finetuning, and buying a better blade than the one it comes with (which is dull and poor quality) you will do well. The blades Carbatec sell off the shelf seem to work well. I have a few and get pretty good results, although there are better blades around if you want to spend a little more.

Dan try the web page of "www.notgoodenough.org they will look into it for you free
it can't hurt





I The original point and click interface was a Smith and Wesson.

There was a current affairs show a while back that somewhat "exposed" the notgoodenough website and discovered payments between the website and various retailers for "favorable" mentions, or something like that.
I'm not saying the site is not telling the truth, but I no longer believe what i read on it entirely

Originally Posted by Dean

Most bandsaws this size are fairly useless for heavy woodworking or cutting anything other than veneer, pine or styrofoam. Even the Delta and other "quality" brand names that sell these 9" bandsaws dont stack up well.
You need a 14" model or bigger to get any reasonable results.

Mine is a 10" saw with aluminium castings, I don't think it classifies as useless for anything other than veneer and pine.

Just wanted to throw a little dissent in there.

I have seen these little bandsaws, and I do agree they are pretty much useless for anything other than scrollsawing, and even then you would be better off with a scrollsaw.

It is possible to get a good saw that has sub 14" wheels on it, you just need to know what to look out for.

With that in mind, if I were going to buy a new small bandsaw it would be a Ryobi most likely. :eek:

About $1,000 worth of Ryobi. Or the equivalent Hitachi.

Is this the one with 3 wheels, takes a 1/4 inch blade that is approx 1200mm long?


I inherited one from my father, and so far, I've managed to break 2 blades with not much cutting.

I have been told it's just tooooo small, and that the 3 wheels makes a blade break even MORE likely.

If you were asking me, no. Not even close.

Here Ryobi have 2 distinct lines of tools. So at the home centres you see a bunch of cheapo Ryobi junk, some that makes even Ozito and Co. look good. Then when you go to a real tool store (pro store they call them here) you get to see the 'other' Ryobi.

Think Makita/Hitachi without the finish, and without such a hefty pricetag. Usually they run at 60-75% of the equivalent Hitachi stuff's prices. They don't have the range, but when you notice they have a thicknesser that is rated at 24"+ wide, and weighs close to half a ton, then I don't think you can really call that kinda thing a toy...

The bandsaw I was talking about is a steel frame, 2 10" wheels and a 6 foot blade. A 1.5hp induction motor with a 2 speed gearbox. A very nice looking saw, and for resawing for most people, it would be perfect. You see, it might only have 10" wheels, but the table is fixed and doesn't lose very much resaw, so you get a healthy 6" or so. Prolly more, as mine is effectively the same size, but I can squeeze in an 8" hunk of wood into mine, but I made the table and guides to do it.

I'd say you are right about the 3 wheel saws. I'm happy now I didn't grab one when they were on sale for $120 or so. About the only thing going for it is the blades are cheap and readily available around here. I know that doesn't make you feel any better, but there has to be something going for it, right?

I recently purchased a Ryobi BS50-N and to my suprise blades are unavailiable for this saw! I bought this saw used (1997 model). I paid $660.00 for it and drove to Missouri to pick it up (about 6 hours from where I live). This saw is a commercial resaw that is rather expensive. My post is to shed some light on a saw that has been discontinued and the company can't even help you to find a replacement blade for it! The problem is that the saw has 10in. wheels and takes a 2in. blade that has a wall thickness of .020in. Can't even dream of getting a carbide with 1.3 tpi. Pretty disappointed about my recent purchase. I don't belive that I will be foolish enough to not do the engineering research that I suppose I should have in the first place again (funny I just thought that a replacement blade wouldn't be a problem). I'm awaiting a couple of custom blades that aren't going to be .020in. but .032in. I hope they don't stress crack too quickly. Just blowin' some steam and shedding a little light on my recent troubles. I will repost later to give some more light on how the new blades will work.:mad:

Ahh, you need the blade I have on my saw then...

BTW, the tips are stellite, not carbide.


If you get seriously stuck on getting a blade, let me know. They are about US$90 each, and they come in a large box, so shipping might be a tad expensive.


I don't know how well your blades will work, but I do know the original Ryobi ones are very, very good. I have resawn 8" thick red oak, no problems.

Hello Folks,

I have just read the posts on this thread regarding the Ryobi 9 inch Band saw. I am primarily a custom rod builder who builds rod commercially and I have decided to use wood grips on my fly rods. My experience with woodworking is limited to table saws, power miter saws and wood lathes for turning cork mostly.

I plan to add inlays to my rod grips that will enhance their aesthetic quality. I have neither the room nor the funds to spend much for a tool that will have limited use in my workshop. I will use a band saw to cut thin (1/8 inch (0.3175 cm) strips of wood from wood blanks 1.5 inch x 1.5 inch square. The woods I use are Maple, Walnut, Box Elder, and Pecan. These are all relatively hard woods.

From the comments on the posts I have just read, there seems to be general agreement the the small 9 inch bench top band saws will not do the job I have outlined above. The two I have been considering are the Ryobi and the Delta BC 900. If any of you have any information for me please contact me.

Thanks for your assistance.

Mike Blomme

Dan writes

Originally Posted by dan_tom

Hi there

Does anyone else have the misfortune of owning a Ryobi bandsaw? shame to waste over $200 on a piece of machinery that is so crap it can't even cut without skewing all over the place.

Hi Dan,

I used a little three wheel hobby bandsaw for a number of years and even cut 4" material with it - I work from home as a former trade cabinetmaker. I now own a Hammer N4400 that's a huge step up.

It works fine - look on the internet for a website on how to tune a bandsaw - basically:

1) loosen the guides and set them off the saw blade.
2) wind up the tension until the blade is at correct tension (something similar to a fan belt on your car.) Should deflect with moderate pressure about 10mm or so.
3) turn the saw by hand and adjust tracking to a point that you're happy with - ie: blade doesn't wander on the pulley (tracking adjustment on this beastie is a little allen head grub screw accessed on the top pulley from the rear of the saw.)
4) wrap a piece of thin paper (or a plastic note) around the back of the blade and set the side guides tight - when you remove the paper, you should *just* be able to see light between all three guides and the blade. The side guides should be about 3mm or less from the teeth gullets
5) Set the rear guide so that it's just off the back of the blade (the correct term for this is the thrust bearing, if that helps you) Do this on both the top and bottom guide assembly
6) Check everything's clear and do a test cut.

If it still plays up, it could be the blade - A new one should cost you about $15 through your local saw doctor, or a bit less through Henry Bros.

Through trial and error, the best blade for this saw was a 10tpi blade, not a 3tpi blade. 10tpi cut the quickest (which goes against logic, I know) and the cleanest. If it is the little 3 wheeler, then the blades were 1425mm long, and the wheels were about 7" in diameter or so.


Cheers,

eddie

Thanks Eddie, but we have since given it to a new home. The original post was over a year ago (I was having a gripe!).

Cheers
Dan

I have a Ryobi BS1001SV bought new from an individual for only $125 still in box, factory bands are the problem. Go to TimberWolf and order 1/4" bands with 6 teeth per inch and all your problems will be solved. RR

Originally Posted by dan_tom

Hi there

Does anyone else have the misfortune of owning a Ryobi bandsaw? I bought one brand new and have had no joy whatsoever from it. I wrote to Ryobi and have heard nothing but stunned silence.... shame to waste over $200 on a piece of machinery that is so crap it can't even cut without skewing all over the place.

Shame really, as the first power tool I ever bought was a Ryobi drop saw over four years ago and it is still kicking on remarkably well. Then ventured up into Makita and Hitachi...lesson learnt - should have gone to straight to Carbatec and bypassed Bunnings...

Cheers
Dan

Originally Posted by Schtoo

Here Ryobi have 2 distinct lines of tools.

Have to agree with Schtoo here. The Ryobi that says 'Made in Japan' is a whole other league. I have a belt sander that has worked its guts out for over a decade and is still going strong. My brother has a mobile thicknesser that he reckons is the ducks nuts.

Originally Posted by Schtoo

I'd say you are right about the 3 wheel saws. I'm happy now I didn't grab one when they were on sale for $120 or so.

I picked up a 3 wheel jobby (Metabo 1638) that's a bit bigger than most and it's brilliant. I think it all comes back to the size and quality...

Damien