Thread: Does this sound right?

I reckon the 3/4 blade is the problem Craig.

Drop to a 3/8 and check out 's favourite on an old thread near you! (Mine's a 3 tpi which is close). The deeper blades tend to buckle with the slightest amount of pressure, go small, you won't go back!

Still in stealth mode I see!

cheers,

P

Thanks Midge.

Was that a polite way of saying "do a search" ?

It's interesting about the deeper blades deflecting more.
"Common sense" would suggest the oposite. At least to me anyway.

How thin can you slice (including the removal of saw marks) with a 3/8 blade?

I have a jet 14" and until recently was using it for resawing. I used a 1/2" woodslicer blade from Highland Hardware in the US and it was a super thin kerf and very smooth cut - probably had to take out about 1/4 to 1/2 a mm in the thicknesser. I also tried a 3/4" henry Bros blade but was not that great.

Now I use an 1 1/2" stellite tipped blade( from henry Brothers) on a 24" saw and only need to plane out about the same.

Seriously consider the woodslicer.

see www.highlandhardware.com

regards,

AD

Try a 3/16 10 tpi.

Originally Posted by craigb

Was that a polite way of saying "do a search" ?

Yep! (Actually I was a bit tired!)
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...=+bandsaw

It's interesting about the deeper blades deflecting more.
"Common sense" would suggest the oposite. At least to me anyway.

Me too, and I think if you have a big grunty machine, and can feed fast enough to minimise heat build-up it all works. However with our "toys" the big blades get pretty hot and blunt quite quickly. Been there done that!

How thin can you slice (including the removal of saw marks) with a 3/8 blade?

I haven't tested exactly how thin, but I did about 20 lineal metres of 75mm thick (wide?) camphor laurel, @ 3mm off the saw.

The saw marks are light enough that I can sand the saw marks out by hand with a bit of 120 grit, but I'll feed them through the drum sander.

I know this, because I just measured them. They are for the walls of the busker organ pipes, and will come down to a little under 1/8" when sanded.

I have also just measured the soundboard on my Doodle Bass and it's 3mm oregon (finished dimension) cut from a 150 thick board.

I think it would be easy to get down to half that thickness consistently.

Originally Posted by ptc

Try a 3/16 10 tpi.

I use 3/16 12 tpi too, but if you are cutting thick (more than an inch) or lots of timber (more than a couple of feet) the teeth will load up, and the blade will get hot and start to wander.

Hope all that helps, I'm no bandsaw wizard, but the more I fiddle with it, the less like fiction all those magazine shots look!

For the benefit of those that don't know where to search, I have roller bearings all round, and set them up hard against a single thickness of cigarette paper. I don't know what I'll use if they ever make smoking illegal!

When using a 1/8" blade I remove all the guides and use a special small blade guide!

Cheers,

P (I rather like my bandsaw!)

Very comprehensive. Thanks mate.

I've finished the resawing that I need to do for now but I'll be putting in an order with Henry Bros soon methinks.

Originally Posted by bloggs1968

Seriously consider the woodslicer.


AD

AD i have also been told about them being great for re sawing. I have enquired in Melbourne and you can get the blades here. They are variable spaced 3,4,3,4,3,etc but are dearer
I pay $20 for a 2360mm - 12mm 4tpi wich is what i re saw with, but the variable blade is $51 (19mm) and can only be sharpend by hand, so it is an expensive blade. Im getting one soon so ill be interested to see how it goes

Looking through the old thread mentioned, said he uses the 3 skip not 3tpi, so is the 3 skip the altenating tooth like 3,4,3,4,etc ?

You know I said in the post above I was a bit tired?

Well I've been having a bit of a fiddle today, and the saw isn't tracking all that well, needs a new blade for that sort of thing: I had forgotten I've been cutting a fair bit of aluminium on the same blade of late, and that does tend to take the edge off the old 3 tpi blade! :eek:

If you do contemplate cutting metal, I suggest you use a false table top with effectively a zero tolerance gap to the blade, not that I'd suggest you do that mind, and specially not with less than about 10 tpi!

It works though....

Cheers,

P

craigb, the big resaw blades have a fair bit of set on them to ensure they clear the sawdust and to avoid pinching up. The results you are getting are normal.

I was scratching round SEARCHING for something a minute or two ago, and found this post: https://www.woodworkforums.com/showpo...5&postcount=16

Which is part of this thread: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/jet-14-setup-17486

and I thought it was worth linking to it, because of my beautifully perfect almost need no sanding rip pics!

Cheers,

P

I think it's just the set on the 3/4'' blade like Termite said.

The blade is cutting o.k, just leaving the saw marks behind.

I'll pickup a 3/8" 4 TPI blade from Henry Bros at the Sydney show and see how that goes.

I also want to replace the blocks with the roller bearings.

last week I was showing my son how thin those 3/4 saw blades from Henrys, could cut cedar. I can consistantly cut 1mm in WRC 90mm or so high. This is with my smallest saw. It is a 10 year old taiwanese 14" clone peice of rubbish which I have learn't to hate with a passion. I guess I have spent a full week fabricating mods and repairs to this machine, to get it to cut decently. I still hate it though.

I will try to post a picture of the cuts tomorrow.
It sounds like something is wrong with your setup, or mabey blade, for the poor cuts the you are getting.

Here you go,

These are shots of 1mm thick cuts in WRC.
Henry Bros 3/4 x 1 1/2 tpi.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&d=1147221212
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&d=1147221212