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Thread: Stupid beginner mistakes :-)
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7th February 2010, 08:24 PM #1
Stupid beginner mistakes :-)
I have purchased a jet 14" bandsaw (the delux model). Its a great saw and I have enjoyed using it. Lately I had noticed whenever I tried to make a cut the blade would wander. I had been thinking, is this a blunt blade, do I need to feed slower, tighten the blade up what?
Nope - it was none of those. At some point I had raised the blade guide to do a resaw and never lowered it again. Being the newbie that I am I had not noticed
It's quite a different tool to what I am used to. But now that I have lowered the guide to just above the height of the wood I am cutting, its great again
Doh!Last edited by pellcorp; 7th February 2010 at 08:26 PM. Reason: I actually purchased a 14" not a 16"!
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7th February 2010 08:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th February 2010, 01:00 AM #2
It is always good to know why and even better to be able to fix it.
I would tend to put the experience down to a good lesson rather than a stupid mistake.- Wood Borer
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9th February 2010, 01:33 AM #3
I turned mine on the other day with no tension on the blade because i forgot.
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9th February 2010, 08:10 AM #4Awaiting Email Confirmation
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It's not a stupid mistake. Just a lack of experience. When you do it again, then that's a stupid mistake....
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9th February 2010, 09:28 AM #5
The Bandsaw.
Hi all,
I've had a 14in Bandsaw since 1997, & have Never Released the Blade Tension Ever, & my Saw has never missed a beat. If you could see all my wood, you would know what I mean.
I also make up my own Blades & go through a Blade approx 5 - 6 Months.
A blade cost me approx. $7.50, & I use a 3/8in. x 6TPI. Skip Tooth.
My Silver Soldered Blades never seem to break, but just wear out.
100 ft. of Blade cost me $81.50, & I get 12 Blades from the roll.
If a mug like myself can do it, so can you, Or buy a roll between a Group of you Woodies.
all the way.
Regards,
issatree.
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9th February 2010, 09:58 AM #6
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9th February 2010, 10:25 AM #7
Pellcorp, thanks for sharing your experience.
It's good for learning and helps to make us (this) real amateur more aware of good bandsaw operational procedure. In this case I think also a safety issue.Hitch
You got to have a dream, if you don't have a dream, how you gonna have a dream come true?
Oscar Hammerstein ll
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9th February 2010, 11:01 AM #8
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9th February 2010, 05:55 PM #9
As long as you learn from the mistake and all fingers are in tact, then all is good
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9th February 2010, 08:04 PM #10
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23rd April 2010, 10:53 AM #11Apprentice
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thought i might chime in with my own stupid beginner mistake....
...loaded up a brand new blade recently and immediately she began to smoke as i attempted to cut 2 inch stock
...black gritty carbon bits flying off everywhere with that awful burning coffee smell
...of course i proceeded to do my cut anyways
took me maybe 20 times longer than i had anticipated and after it all ...there were burning charred scraping bits throughout the surface of the cut
I was even worried tht bandsaw might catch fire but since i don't use dust collector i threw caution to the winds anyways
...well....after some time of googling the problem ....
...it was prob the stupidest mistake there is
...i putted the blade on INSIDE OUT (teeth pointing up when it SHOULD be pointing down ...grrr)
...so this morning after maybe 30 mins of metho cleaning the blade of cruddy stuck carbon bits and turnin it inside out ....
...she cuts beautifully again like butter
....i learn something new everyday with this amazing tool ....Looking for
1. fiddleback mulga - 1" thick, 3"wide, 26" long
PM if you have for sale!
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23rd April 2010, 11:07 AM #12
Took a lot of perseverance to keep cutting with all that smoke - I'm impressed
But seriously if you don't think about it, it would be quite easy to stick the blade on the wrong way. Tell me did you have to really hold the work down while cutting? I would think it probably wanted to continually lift it up...
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23rd April 2010, 11:10 AM #13Apprentice
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23rd April 2010, 08:27 PM #14
I can get carbon blades made for my 12 inch Triton for about $15 for most of the general width/tooth configurations, made to order by my local saw doctor.
They strenuously reccommend against bimetal blades for smaller saws (under about 18inch) because the combination of available thickness and stiffness don't cope well with the bend radius required for the smaller wheels. As a result the blades get metal fatigue, develop micro cracks, and ultimately break long before they are blunted.
I read recently (possibly on Fine Woodworking Knots Forum) about problems someone was having cracking and breaking bimetals on an 18 inch saw which was ultimately tracked to the blades being too thick for the bend radius, which tends to support the sawdocs position. In this case the user had broken a few new blades in a very short time, all well clear of the weld where the blade would have been annealed and hence was more protected from metal fatigue.
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24th April 2010, 03:13 PM #15
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