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1st September 2005, 06:18 PM #1
Tablesaw Versus Bandsaw For Ripping
I have a 14inch bandsaw 1.5hp with a 3 TPI 3/4" blade that is pretty good for ripping timber, but I have a lot of hardwood timber to rip through that will be about 75mm (3 inches) thick into 18mm boards to plane etc for a feature ceiling for my awning. I want to know should I continue with the bandsaw or am I far better off investing in a 2-3hp circular saw? Will it make my life that much easier - currently I have no tablesaw. I am sure someone out there has both and some ideas for me - welcome . I don't care about waste from cut width as the timber is recycled pallets/crates etc and plentiful over time. Thanks.
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1st September 2005, 06:48 PM #2
I'd stick to the bandsaw if you are going to plane the boards afterwards. I only rip with the TS if I need the finished board to be spot on.
The bandsaw does it easier than the TS or hand held circular saw every time.
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1st September 2005, 06:50 PM #3
Depending on the length and assuming you can handle them OK whern feeding, I can't see why a bandsaw wouldn't be perfect for what you want to do. However, a hand held power saw will always come in handy so buy that as well
If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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1st September 2005, 08:40 PM #4
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1st September 2005, 10:52 PM #5
I agree with the general consensus.
IMHO a table-saw will rip faster and neater, but if you were concerned about fast production you'd be asking which one to buy and not "should I?"
Buy a TS if you'll have other regular use for it as well, but just for this one job it's not practical. Stick with the bandsaw.
- Andy Mc
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2nd September 2005, 01:21 AM #6
Skew, my tablesaw doesn't rip worth a sh...oot? Not fast, not nice.
Bandsaw rips dead straight, and provided I wear earmuffs (to drown out the foul sounds) faster than my tablesaw ever will.
But I have a cheap and nasty TS, and a cheap and old bandsaw. Both have blades worth more than the saws...:eek:
Something wrong with that I am sure.:confused:
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2nd September 2005, 01:10 PM #7
Well I suppose that seems pretty clear cut the bandsaw is going to have to do. You are right Alex I am keen on that TSC-10HB, but as SWMBO saw the text lastnight I am not in a great position to get one just now as I only just spent near $3k on a chainsaw mill for outback trips so tread carefully for a while .
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2nd September 2005, 10:07 PM #8Originally Posted by Schtoo
Something wrong with that I am sure.:confused:
- Andy Mc
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2nd September 2005, 10:26 PM #9
Problem is, that the TS blade (Tenryu 100T) is over $100, and the BS (Ryobi, 2" stellite tipped) is in the same league.
I guess it's why I don't have any blade problems. The BS was a good one when it was made I guess, about 40 years ago. It's long in the tooth and exhibits 40 year old Japanese technology too. Very rugged, simple but it works. Two pieces of steel tube and a few ally castings. A universal motor with gearbox and some guides.
The TS is a cheap POS I can't wait to replace. I don't even bother ripping with the fence unless I have to. A lesson in frustration...
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2nd September 2005, 10:56 PM #10
Heck, my bandsaw rips fairly good...
Got to use a good feather board, MUCH faster than my TS, even with a good ripping blade on it, and like someone else said, "No kickback".
Of course, if you really "NEED" a table saw......
Cheers!
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2nd September 2005, 11:45 PM #11
:eek: Stu, that's not a bandsaw, it's a bloody pipesaw!
Where do you get the blades for it? Tempered segments of DC-10 fuselage?
- Andy Mc
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3rd September 2005, 09:58 AM #12
Well Just to be different, anything 100mm or less I rip on the tsc-10hb, larger than 100mm I use the bandsaw with a 25mm blade 3 or 4 tpi.
If it goes against the grain, it's being rubbed the wrong way!
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3rd September 2005, 11:46 PM #13
Stu, I saw a saw just like yours in our local Carbatec store about $2400AUD and although I couldn't justify this I know whoever bought it may have electrical issues with it from my saliva left all over it - impressive monster for ripping.
Now with the bandsaw does anyone find it worthwhile sharpening up the 3/4" 3TPI blades or is it a case of just chuck them and spend the $27 on a new one. I did get a couple of round files at the last woodshow that looked like they would do a decent job - did give my not so sharp blade a tickle with it - only guessing how to do it right and got improvement but not convinced I either should have bothered or did it right? I was just thinking of cutting some more wood then slipping in the new recently bought blade for a comparison and either checking on a sharpening company to see if it is worth them doing the old blade or just chucking it - any ideas?
Would like to talk myself into a 10" - 3hp tablesaw but just today found the 4WD needs a new $1300 set of tyres -
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4th September 2005, 12:33 AM #14
Maybe a better weapon would be a dremel (or cheaper copy) with a diamond bit. A small round would be fine I think and use that for re-sharpening.
If the teeth are hardened, then the file is either going to have a hard time, or it just wont do it.
On the blade mine has, and the wider/longer version Tokyo Stu has there, they are tipped. Mine is stellite, his is tungsten I think. Files will not touch that stuff.
I don't anticipate needing to sharpen mine for a while though. Might get some stellite welding rods and re-tip it when it does though. Either that, or make handsaws out of the blade.
As for you sharpening efforts, if it works better and cuts straight, I guess you made an improvment. If it's cutting a curve, rub a hard oil stone against the teeth on the side it's cutting towards. Gentle touch, check it often and stop when it's cutting straight.
That's what I did with the poxy blade mine came with, and it works well enough that I can actually use it now.
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4th September 2005, 01:37 AM #15
Teejay, does your Carbatec do resharpening? Ours did, before it went Gustec, but I'm not sure if that was part of normal ops or just a sideline of one of the staff. I haven't been back since the changeover to find out if they still do it, either. Must be coming due time...
It cost a bit less than half the price of a replacement but the blade was almost as good as new. Almost, in that it cut as well but apparently resharpening weakens 'em. I've been told by a few blokes who should know that you can only safely resharpen an average blade a few times, as they're strip-annealed on the cutting edge and once you're close to cutting into the untempered metal it becomes a health hazard.
Perhaps someone else here can confirm or deny this? I believe it, but don't simply take my word for it...
Anywho, I got them to resharpen mine until they told me the blade wouldn't handle it and then I'd buy a replacement. At the price I thought it worth it; I didn't have the time and couldn't do as good a job anyway. [shrug]
I'll be going back and asking if they still do 'em the next time I remember, too.
- Andy Mc
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