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Thread: tension again
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20th April 2008, 05:06 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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tension again
Over a week I've gone my 16a cutting as it should[thanks to this forum and Mark Duginske] I was sawing 200mm green Mulberry with a 5/8 6tpi starret blade clean and straight, but slow, and the kerf was chokka with dust. I decided to try a 3/4 1.3tpi from Henry but it"s barreling and wandering about. Question. How much tension is too much, before I damage the saw ? I've gone from double bass to cello then chickened out, any ideas?
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20th April 2008, 06:19 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Band saw tension
I might be stating the obvious but doesn't the manual / instructions cover this point. My Havco model which is about 4 YO did and it seems to work well.
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20th April 2008, 07:31 PM #3
why not - tighten it beyond what you think is enough, as p.t.c. wisely suggests - do the pluck / twang test. Then tighten it another half turn or so. At each stage test the sawing results.
By taking your time to conduct these tests you'll get to know your bandsaw that much better and you may well get the results you seek!
outcomes on the down side - I can't think of any!Tony Ward
Now a power carver and living the dream.
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20th April 2008, 09:15 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Would overtightening just break the blade,or stuff the whole saw. Maybe I should stick to the 5/8 3tpi blade. The instructions say "Give the saw blade 3kg side pressure tensile deformation is about 8mm" and I'm way over that. They also say" Use foot bolt to forbid the machine leaning to the ground" which does not inspire confidence. Thanks for your help, I'll keep at it.
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21st April 2008, 01:38 PM #5
Tension is not the only reason for Barreling. If one side of the blade cuts better than the other (ie. set screwed up, dull teeth from nicking some metal, etc.) then the blade will want to drift toward the good side, strong tension and the lower guides will pull it back as it finishes the cut and as a result the cut wonders out and then back in creating what you call a barreling. Aside from all the other good advice, check the blade. look for defects or shiny teeth on one side (shiny teeth usually mean worn teeth or bent over points. )
One way to check is to lift the top guides so that they are not as close to the work, then begin a cut and if it drifts, then you may be looking at a damaged blade (the open space between the upper guides will allow the blade to go asunder rather than confineing it to a prescribed path.
Just another perspective.
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21st April 2008, 04:20 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Hickory, but it's a new blade straight out of the box from Henry Bros, 3/4 1.3tpi was the cover story in a recent issue of Oz Woodworker.
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22nd April 2008, 12:30 PM #7
wot tony said.
p.t.c
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22nd April 2008, 06:12 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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" wot tony said " wos rite. I bit the bullet and screwed it right up, nothing broke and she cut true, now I'm backing off to see how little I can get away with. Mark Duginske scared me with the photos of bent & broken top wheel hinges. Thanks to every one.
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