Thread: What is this for?

Fred the obvious part is the split is there for the blade to be taken in and out.
The pin goes in the hole to make sure the table parts are kept level.
If you dont put the pin in the table sides may not be level so when you pass the timber over the table it may not glide smoothly as it feels like there is a step in the table.

With my limited knowledge I think the pin just stops vibration etc in the split plate. We obviously need the split to change the blades and without the pin with everything wizzing around the cast plate could vibrate which I guess could then work harden and long term crack. Ok thats my best answer. I could come up with others but they would be far sillyer sillier cylier and as Jim points out to keep both parts level.

Thank you Jim and CH

Obvious once it has been pointed out to you, read all through the manual (yeah I know!) and Lonnie Birds' book on bandsaws, the pin is shown but nowhere did it say what it was for.

To make matters slightly less obvious, mine didn't come with a pin or a handle, so I guess I'd better make one up.

Thanks again.

BS they are usualy like a 5/16 bolt with the thread ground off with very slight taper. You can usualy gently wind it in with a spaner not much more than finger tight. The flex of the table will hold it in place.

Thanks CH, should be easy to knock one up

After a bit more googling found some sizes for a table pin fro a Jet bandsaw, they seemed to correspond to the hole in my table, so knocked up a tapered pin from 304 Stainless that I had laying around.

Fits like a glove.

Kool, another problem solved well done.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

After a bit more googling found some sizes for a table pin fro a Jet bandsaw, they seemed to correspond to the hole in my table, so knocked up a tapered pin from 304 Stainless that I had laying around.

Fits like a glove.

Hmph, common steel not good eough eh? 304 stainless no less.

Originally Posted by

Hmph, common steel not good eough eh? 304 stainless no less.

Nah, I just happened to have a "reject" No Mandrel bush laying around that I had "overturned", so just used that.

Not only that, but the SS is shinier

Mmmm, shiney is our friend

I hope that you put a couple of "flats" on it Fred so that you can remove it for blade changing or is it a "mole grip job"?

It can be tapped out from underneath if it ever gets stuck, but I must admit I considered using a bit of hex for the job