Thread: Which one should I keep?

Look at my thread about the 27" LS Barker, I got it in to my shed laid on it's side and then stood it upright, you are much better off with that Wadkin

Keep the Wadkin

Originally Posted by Camelot

Look at my thread about the 27" LS Barker, I got it in to my shed laid on it's side and then stood it upright, you are much better off with that Wadkin

thanks mate, I am trying to figure out how to lay it flat on my own…

Originally Posted by Albert

thanks mate, I am trying to figure out how to lay it flat on my own…

I have seen people make these cradles Tannewitz Bandsaw Move - YouTube

3A9324C9-CFF7-4287-BD90-975BD8EE192C.jpg'

well this is where I am with it now, I have removed the bandsaw table to help with tilting the bandsaw on its back/side.

The bandsaw is 100mm higher than the garage entrance.

fortunately I have a forklift to help but how do I tilt it to its side? I have hydraulic lift table and pallet mover if that helps?

Do I really need to lay it completely flat before moving it in? is it possible to sqeeze it in without laying it flat?

Originally Posted by Albert

thanks mate, I am trying to figure out how to lay it flat on my own…

But if you still have that forklift you could make a dolly/bogie extra long in length to allow you to lean the machine over enough to clear your door when sitting on the dolly, you could make a triangle shape out of plywood (say 10 number at 200mm centres) which fixes to your dolly and gives you the correct angle to clear your door, these triangle pieces would have a piece of plywood fixed to then (so looking at the dolly it would look like a mobile skateboard ramp) then on the other side (the side which will allow the bandsaw to fall over) fix a vertical section for the bandsaw to rest on, say 100mm x 100mm posts at say 600/800mm apart and build a stud frame between them (100mm x 50mm) and then clad the studwork in plywood (for extra strength). You would then need to cut a number of plywood 90 degree triangles pieces at say 800mm in height & 450mm wide (maybe glue 2 or 3 of them together) then fix these to your vertical studwork section and the dolly at say 200mm centres, this will hold the bandsaw at the tilted angle and stop it from falling over. You would then need to lift the bandsaw onto the dolly using your forklift with straps (like a Crain) rather than underneath with the forks, because you would not be able to tilt the machine over with the forks in this position. Once in the shed you would need a block & tackle if your forklift will not fit under your door.

Originally Posted by Albert

3A9324C9-CFF7-4287-BD90-975BD8EE192C.jpg'

well this is where I am with it now, I have removed the bandsaw table to help with tilting the bandsaw on its back/side.

The bandsaw is 100mm higher than the garage entrance.

fortunately I have a forklift to help but how do I tilt it to its side? I have hydraulic lift table and pallet mover if that helps?

Do I really need to lay it completely flat before moving it in? is it possible to sqeeze it in without laying it flat?

I made my last post without seeing this one and just noticed the bolt down lugs, you could put castor wheels through those bolt down holes, small at one side and built up at the other to make the machine tilt, if it's 100mm higher then your door you might be able to tilt it enough using this method without the machine going past its centre of gravity.

Or just use castors on one side and your pallet mover on the other (best have pallet mover on the workshop side) use the pallet mover to tilt the machine and your forklift on the out side to stop to from falling over

Do you have a crane jib for your fork ?
Ive had bandsaws slung at an angle to poke thru my workshop door on numerous occasions.
Usually from a hiab or similar truck crane.
I was thinking just sling it off the forks but with your gutter overhand you probably need the reach of a jib to get it in without crushing your guttering.
Being a fabricated saw that shouldn’t be too heavy unlike an earlier similar sized cast iron lump.
H.

Originally Posted by clear out

Do you have a crane jib for your fork ?
Ive had bandsaws slung at an angle to poke thru my workshop door on numerous occasions.
Usually from a hiab or similar truck crane.
I was thinking just sling it off the forks but with your gutter overhand you probably need the reach of a jib to get it in without crushing your guttering.
Being a fabricated saw that shouldn’t be too heavy unlike an earlier similar sized cast iron lump.
H.

I could buy a forklift jib, will need for other jobs from time to time...

Was thinking I could utilise my engine crane hoist/lifter to lay it flat with forklift lifting the other end.
once inside garage, use forlift with jib to pull it up.

Originally Posted by Camelot

I made my last post without seeing this one and just noticed the bolt down lugs, you could put castor wheels through those bolt down holes, small at one side and built up at the other to make the machine tilt, if it's 100mm higher then your door you might be able to tilt it enough using this method without the machine going past its centre of gravity.

Or just use castors on one side and your pallet mover on the other (best have pallet mover on the workshop side) use the pallet mover to tilt the machine and your forklift on the out side to stop to from falling over

I made a scaled paper cut out, it seems I need to tilt it quite a bit to get it under the entrance... need to allow space for castors, it seems I need to tilt it at least 40 deg, the bandsaw width is 900mm, the centre being heighest point didnt help with this method..

With the frame not being Cast Steel, you need to be careful not to twist it, I could lift mine with the forklift just using a sling around the top of the casting making sure the sling didn't make contact with the top wheel and got it on it's side that way, by allowing part of it to drag on the floor while moving the folks to one side, once the machine past the centre of gravity I lowered it to the ground. I think getting it on it's side would be your best bet, it would be safer when on it's side to roll into your workshop on a couple of dollies.

Never done any moving with a forklift, but wondering would it be possible to lift the machine inbetween forks lifted high
using some strapping for around the column, getting some hefty bit of a sleeper for under the trunnion side of the machine,(as you do when manhandling a light industrial machine) to lower it onto and start the tip, then gradually reversing and lowering the forks onto something like a cart?

Guessing not as easy as that, and some way of attaching straps onto the end of the forks might be a bit involved/costly.

Just a thought
Good luck

Tom

Originally Posted by Tom trees

Never done any moving with a forklift, but wondering would it be possible to lift the machine inbetween forks lifted high
using some strapping for around the column, getting some hefty bit of a sleeper for under the trunnion side of the machine,(as you do when manhandling a light industrial machine) to lower it onto and start the tip, then gradually reversing and lowering the forks onto something like a cart?

Guessing not as easy as that, and some way of attaching straps onto the end of the forks might be a bit involved/costly.

Just a thought
Good luck

Tom

Would your idea put the machine on it's back side (the thin part of the machine) with the 2 wheels sticking vertically up into the air, once on it's side?

Hopefully so Camelot!
Just commenting that putting something under the trunnion side of the machine is the way I'd try it, unless I seen something easier.
Well for doing it by manpower anyways, the sleeper or post makes a whole lot of sense, although I'd not want to try this myself on anything much bigger!
Lugging a large bandsaw about - YouTube

I've seen a 200kg machine vertically lifted with straps which was either around the column or the frame tight to the column,
and it seemed sound, granted this is likely a different ballgame and not just two or three hundred kilos?

Good luck with your machine(s)

Tom