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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    4,400

    Default 3 phase switch problems .

    I'm putting a stroke sander back together after its been sitting in a storage shed for 8 years since my move.
    Today I wired it up and couldn't get it going.
    IMG_4514.jpg IMG_4512.jpg
    After checking the switchboard to check nothing had tripped. And then plugging another machine into the wall outlet and seeing that run . And then not knowing if it was the switch the motor or the plug that was the problem I bypassed the switch and direct wired the lead to the motor and turned it on at the wall. That worked.

    So I took the first switch off the wooden mount and fitted up a second one. Same thing . Not working.

    Up till now I had been pressing the start and reset button with my electrical insulated screw diver.
    I'm pointing the start out with a red wire scrap off cut.
    IMG_4515.jpg

    Then I realized I hadn't tried pressing the thing that gets pulled in and engages the three phases when the start button is pressed.
    I pushed that and the motor started. I pushed the reset/off button and re started it a few times by doing that.
    IMG_4516.jpg

    The first switch possibly would have worked the same but I didn't try that.

    So the power is going through Ok If I manually start it but the single phase that gets the electrical magnet going isn't charging up probably on both switches. Is that right?
    What does that mean ?

    I tried adjusting the reset dial thing to the left of the off button from low to high and that did nothing and have never understood where they should sit on its dial. If its all the way left the reset trips. I normally just leave them where the sparky has it set at or halfway up if I don't know what it was at.

    Any ideas on what is going on?

    Rob

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Default

    Here's the switch and motor details.

    Cant load them yet . Pictures have stopped loading for some reason ??

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD
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    758

    Default

    The bit at the bottom is a thermal overload and protects the motor from overheating, the more you turn it to the right the hotter you are allowing the motor to get before the overload kicks in and stops it from working.The contactor should pull in the magnet, here's a video showing how the wiring should be, the NO switch is a momentary switch which when pressed energizes the magnet and pulls the contactor together making a circuit, then it falls out of the circuit just incase you have a power cut, where power may come back on and restart the machine while your not there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1q0yoym-8I

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    The bit at the bottom is a thermal overload and protects the motor from overheating, the more you turn it to the right the hotter you are allowing the motor to get before the overload kicks in and stops it from working.
    Ah its thermal overload. I thought it was some sort of electrical overload. ( Same thing ? )How does an electrician know where to set it when hes just wired up a new switch to a machine ? Run it for a while and lower it till it trips then just go a %? higher and leave it there?

    This link seems a good explanation of them. A Guide on Thermal Overload Relay Working Principle | CHINT Blog
    What do the numbers stand for ? And the A? Amps?
    IMG_4520a.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    The contactor should pull in the magnet, here's a video showing how the wiring should be, the NO switch is a momentary switch which when pressed energizes the magnet and pulls the contactor together making a circuit, then it falls out of the circuit just incase you have a power cut, where power may come back on and restart the machine while your not there. 3 Phase Contactor Wiring Diagram DOL Starter - YouTube
    I cant watch that guy in the echo chamber explanation.

    Its a contactor, that's right .

    The motor badge and the switch badge . I think they look fine. 5.5 KW is 7.37 HP so its not an underrated switch. It is one of the the switches originally fitted to the sander.

    IMG_4513.jpg IMG_4521.jpg

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Default

    Problem solved.
    Lines in and out were around the wrong way.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    Default

    I wrote a big long explaination about Thermal Overloads but clicked close before I sent it
    The abridged version...A Thermal Overload limits the current that the motor can draw, not how hot it gets. The dial on the TOL is in Amps. You should have it set to 5 as your motor draws a maximum of 4.7 at full load.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    I wrote a big long explaination about Thermal Overloads but clicked close before I sent it
    The abridged version...A Thermal Overload limits the current that the motor can draw, not how hot it gets. The dial on the TOL is in Amps. You should have it set to 5 as your motor draws a maximum of 4.7 at full load.

    GREAT NC! Ive always wondered about these and how they are set.

    So My motor is stamped 4.7 Amps . And they stamp them as the Max they draw at full load obviously?
    If the motor is under a greater load than just running not doing any work do they pull more Amps?

    Rob

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Basically yes. It is a 3HP motor and with efficiencies and power factor mixed in it will draw 4.7A while doing 3HP worth of work. If you overload it and try to do, say, 4 or 5HP worth of work, there is no such thing as free energy, it will draw more current and could damage the motor so the TOL is designed to shut it off and preserve the motor. You see a lot of people just connecting a motor straight to the outlet and you can usually get away with it but when something goes wrong there is no protection there for the motor. The fuse or circuit breaker back at the switchboard has one job and that is to protect the cable. Most power circuits are protected by a 20A breaker or even larger. That's 20A that could continually flow through your 4.7A designed motor. That's what lets the magic smoke out. I've got a couple of 3 phase motors in the shed that dont have a starter but they are protected by the VFD which has all sorts of overload protection.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

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