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Thread: Can anyone repair a Huanyang VFD
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27th January 2013, 06:18 PM #1
Can anyone repair a Huanyang VFD
Malibu suggested that I start a new thread for this, so...
Can anyone help me?
I recently bought a Huanyang HY03D023B inverter, which is a 220v input 3.0 KW output VFD.
I could not get it to work, and told the supplier in China that it was a dud. After many days of measuring and them assuring me that it was a minor problem that they could fix easily, they finally said that they couldn't fix it and that they would send me a new inverter (I have to pay another $35 freight.
The thing that is wrong with it seems to be no voltage at all on the output side. It measures very high resistance between all output terminals:
The resistance measurements are:
U-V = 4.7 Megaohms (4M7)
U-W = 12.44 Megaohms (12M44)
V-W = 4.82 Megaohms (4M82)
and then, when power is applied:
Measurements across the U-V terminals was 10.6v, Then after pressing start it was 11.1 then after pressing stop it was 10v
Measurements across the U-W terminals was 4.3v, Then after pressing start it was 4.0 then after pressing stop it was 2.6v
Measurements across the V-W terminals was 8.5v, Then after pressing start it was 8.3 then after pressing stop it was 10.6v
As soon as I press the start button I get a fault dL which according to the manual is an output short circuit.
Their suggested course of action for this fault is:
1) Check whether the connection wire of the motor has a short circuit. (The motor is not connected)
2) Check whether the insulation of the output wires is good. (No output wires attached)
3) Send for repair.
So, does anyone have a circuit diagram for this inverter, or better still can anyone advise me what component has failed?
The manual also says that the VFD is fuse protected. I cannot find a fuse anywhere in the box.
Your replies would be much appreciated.
Bob Willson
PS Humphrey9999 suggeted that it may just be a matter of replacing the IGBT transistor. (At least, I think it is a transistor)Bob Willson
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27th January 2013 06:18 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th January 2013, 06:30 PM #2Been here a while
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I'm assuming you're looking for a glass tube with a wire running through it?
Most modern PCB mount fuses will look like a large SMD resistor. Could be a 1206, 1210, 1810 etc. If it's a through-hole part, it could resemble a flat disc, like a 5 cent coin, although not necessarily round - it could be square.
As suggested in the other thread, please post a high resolution photo of the board.
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27th January 2013, 07:04 PM #3Bob Willson
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27th January 2013, 07:13 PM #4Senior Member
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Here are the pinouts, from a manual. (Does this look like the same one Bob?): -
Huanyang Inverter pinouts.JPG
Bob, what's on the back of the bottom board?
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27th January 2013, 07:27 PM #5Saw dust maker!
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(Actualy, I thought it might be good for Neil to start a sub-forum under electronics for anyone that might like their stuff fixed.. But this is good anyway )
If it helps, my inverter is the same brand of Hangyung-whatever, but a 2.2Kw instead. I just took a run downstairs and measured the output resistance (Motor unplugged, wires still connected to the drive) and were as follows -
U-V = 3.474 Meg
V-W = 3.536 Meg
U-W = 3.550 Meg
Near enough to balanced for me. At a glance on your measurements, one of them is way out so maybe as Humphrey suggested, an IGBT is shot (open/shorted)?
As a side note, interesting enough it was 55 Meg to earth across all phases.
Hopefully this helps your cause
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27th January 2013, 07:29 PM #6
Very similar but not exactly the same.Schematic VFD controls.jpg
Bob Willson
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27th January 2013, 07:46 PM #7
Looking at the photo vfd bottom half -2
At the top right corner there is a transistor that seems to have a short across the top two legs but not across the bottom two legs about 0.5 k and 2.0 meg respectively. Or is this normal?Bob Willson
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27th January 2013, 07:53 PM #8Senior Member
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Thanks. (Mine was fairly close, but could well be a different or earlier model.)
Thinking about it, and going by the 'output short circuit' indication, there's possibly a short before the physical output connections, which wouldn't show up measuring those connections because the U, V and W leads appear to be capacitively coupled. ie. A capacitor in series with the output.
Measurements before those capacitors could show drastically different results.
Otherwise, I'd track each output line back, as far as the transformer if necessary, looking for shorts including solder bridges between tracks/pins from assembly.
Current sensing is probably done at the primary of the transformer, so the fault could lay with the switching element, transformer or anything afterwards.
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27th January 2013, 07:58 PM #9Senior Member
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27th January 2013, 10:06 PM #10
Sorry, I meant top left. Next to the red LED.
Again..Bob Willson
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27th January 2013, 10:14 PM #11Senior Member
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28th January 2013, 01:19 AM #12
Those are beneath the bottom PC board, fastened to the cooler. as such they are quite difficult to get at. Also, some of the values change a little as I read them.
However, given the above, then:
Q17: E - C = 5M0, C - G = 7M0 E - G = 10K0
Q18: E - C = 1M2, C - G = 1M2 E - G = 10K0
Q19: E - C = 6K0, C - G = 1M7 E - G = 10K0
Q20: E - C = 000, C - G = 10K0 E - G = 10K0
Q21: E - C = 5M0, C - G = 5M0 E - G = 10M0
Q22: E - C = 5M0, C - G = 10K0 E - G = 4M5
These seem to me to be all over the place. The only really bad one is the Q20 E - C= 0Bob Willson
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28th January 2013, 01:44 AM #13Senior Member
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Yep, that 0Ω reading between the emitter and collector of Q20 looks sus. A schematic would be handy right now, but I can't get my hands on one. I'd remove the heatsink for access, remove Q20 and see if it still measures the same. These are probably 3 pairs of push-pull drivers, driving the output.
For the other measurements, do they change if the DMM leads are reversed?
Some values will appear to change during measurement if there's a capacitor connected. The resistance will increase as the cap charges.
Enough for me for tonight - a snack and off to bed.
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28th January 2013, 07:41 AM #14Saw dust maker!
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28th January 2013, 09:20 AM #15Senior Member
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Just what the doctor ordered, John.
Well, my guess of capacitive coupling was wrong, but not to worry. Didn't realise it had to go down to 0.5Hz, too low to capacitively couple with such a small cap. Those caps are just across the supply for smoothing.
The output is 3 push-pull stages, though, and measurements taken on Q18, Q20 and Q22 should be roughly the same, so it looks like Q20 is cactus, unless one or both of the zener diodes connected to the gate have failed short-circuit. (These zeners are 18V, 1W, to prevent the gate voltage rising above about 18.6V.) Even if this is the case, the IGBT could still be dead. Shame the schematic doesn't say exactly what the IGBTs are.
The other measurements might have varied due to the polarity of the DMM leads.
The heatsink must come off next. (Bob, you'll need some heat transfer compound when you replace it, to ensure good cooling.)
Bob, does your DMM have a diode test function?
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