Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 21 of 21
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    Hi Hugh,
    I've never heard of anyone manually switching out the start winding. Pretty risky and a good way to burn out a winding.
    Although I have seen stupider things than a manual start.
    I'm certain that the 0-1-Stt cam switch is just someones alternative, start location option. I would have used a couple of buttons but the switch does the job.
    No I agree. Just looks like a repeater switch location to me.....I'll test when I get home, but, if this is the case, why would the capacitor have blown? Once I replace, how can I prevent from happening again?

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
    Age
    84
    Posts
    2,578

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    Hi Hugh,
    I've never heard of anyone manually switching out the start winding. Pretty risky and a good way to burn out a winding.
    Although I have seen stupider things than a manual start.
    I'm certain that the 0-1-Stt cam switch is just someones alternative, start location option. I would have used a couple of buttons but the switch does the job.
    Hi,
    Not all that uncommon, I have also come across a toggle type, you switch on and go right over to the start then it spring returns to the centre run position. They are used in corrosive and dusty conditions where the contacts on the auto switches give a lot of problems and as you say a brief power outage = 1 cooked motor if you are not quick enough.
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
    Age
    84
    Posts
    2,578

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yourmomm View Post
    No I agree. Just looks like a repeater switch location to me.....I'll test when I get home, but, if this is the case, why would the capacitor have blown? Once I replace, how can I prevent from happening again?
    Hi,
    Because it probably stayed in circuit when it was in run.
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by A Duke View Post
    Hi,
    Because it probably stayed in circuit when it was in run.
    Regards
    But why would it have done this? This switch stayed at position 1, (and 0 when I turned saw off from there): I never moved it to START at all....

    I still cant test as im away from home. Will do so tmw, but im fairly sure the capacitor has gone...just not sure WHY.

    If it helps, this saw (and its front mounted 0 1 START switch) used to be single phase, with a (now long-lost) rear mounted single phase starter; at some point, someone converted to three phase, and continued to use the same front mounted switch, wired into 3 phase magnetic starter, which again was rear mounted. As far as i can see, this is common for mbs-300 saws (also referred to as tc-12's by some companies). In fact, I saw someone today with this exact same saw, which was still single phase, and had the same configuration of front mounted 0 1 START switch and rear mounted magnetic starter. There is no manual bypassing of any motor start windings, or any complicated circuits here. The front switch is simply an alternative location START switch.

    I bought this saw, sight unseen, from a company who mistakenly sold it to me as a single phase saw. It was only when it was delivered, that I found out they hadnt looked at it properly and that it was three phase! But, in good faith, they supplied a brand new single phase motor and starter switch to convert it. So I am now trying to convert it back to single phase now, and am regretting not just putting the magnetic starter on the front in the first place, bypassing the 0 1 START switch, and avoiding all this hassle-i was trying to avoid making the cabinet look like a piece of cheese with all the holes being drilled in it. Ho hum. Lesson learned. Im going to get me a new start capacitor and start drilling anyway now, but would still like to know why this happened, as its not clear to me-NCArchers advice made sense to me and it all worked exactly as predicted, until this morning, and nothing happened this morning which was any different from all the other times I have turned on the saw in the past few days.

    Im wondering whether its possible the motor itself, and/or 0 1 START switch is defective, in which case I can go back to the company that sold me the saw and gave me (separately) the motor, and bill them for the repairs! Obviously cant do this if this was in some way my fault though....

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    20

    Default problem solved....Again:)

    Ok all sorted. Meter showed 220v at T1 and T2, so problem was at motor side...but meter also showed capacitor was operating within specs, which confused me...thought this must mean the motor was fried, but tested all wires for continuity, and found one wire between capacitor and motor was only intermittently continuous...pulled apart and found wire had been crushed and strands mostly cut INSIDE the insulation, not at all visible from outside. This being a brand new motor! Poor form from quality control.... Anyhow, replaced cable between capacitor and motor, and all is good again. Thanks all, especially NCArcher, for help

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
    Age
    84
    Posts
    2,578

    Default

    Hi,
    Thanks for letting us know what the problem was. These type of problems are a worry when I know I could sort it if I were there. You can more or less judge how much the poster can manage by his questions but the biggest worry to me is the non members who try to solve all things by searching here and are a danger to every one.
    Anyway good one
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Jointer starter switch wiring question
    By orangegoblin200 in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERY
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 21st May 2012, 09:57 PM
  2. Does this 3hp motor require a starter?
    By Sir Stinkalot in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 9th March 2012, 02:41 PM
  3. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 29th June 2010, 06:25 PM
  4. Starter switch for a Griggio panel saw
    By Greg Hawthorne in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONS
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12th October 2009, 04:50 PM
  5. magna TR 93 starter motor
    By sdrob in forum MOTOR VEHICLES
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 29th July 2008, 09:44 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •