Thread: Stepdown Transformers 240v to 110v for 2000w router motor

Originally Posted by Big Shed

The front panel where the pot for the speed control is can be mounted away from the box and connected via a cable.

Ah, I think I see - a couple of fingers into the semi-circle and pull it out. You'd think that they would want to show that feature with a pic....

Originally Posted by BobL

I have thought about these spindles especially as I see ER20 collets are commonly used size. One thing I wonder about is how they would work upside down and belong air cooled which way they blow the air?
Anyone know about these?

I would be mounting it in an enclosed, but vented cabinet, connected to a DE so plenty of ventilation to keep it cool.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

I would be mounting it in an enclosed, but vented cabinet, connected to a DE so plenty of ventilation to keep it cool.

I doubt whether they will survive long term inside even a vented router cabinet because the motor cooling loop would generate a much higher local air pressure than a DC so they would always be sucking some of tdust inside themselves.
I'd definitely be getting some advice from the CNC people. Remember CNC operations have the spindle above the dust and they usually pull the dust out to the side. In a router situation some of the dust will be constantly falling onto the spindle and maybe even drawn into the motor cooling loop.

The controls on most VDFs are kinda small and fiddly so it is usually much easier to make an outboard set of controls that is convenient mounted for the operator.
Here is how I did my WW lathe.
The Fwd/STOP/Rev and speed controls are in the white box.
The VFD is mounted above so the display (usually frequency) can be easily seen and any programming be conveniently done. Even though the VFD is close to the headstock the dust extraction is so good on the typical small work I do that no detectable dust gets drawn through the VFD.



Same with my DP.

Brett

I think the thread may have travel almost full circle.

Posts #2 and #3 cover most of the recent questions. The body of a 2.2KW motor appears to be 80mm diameter so the last remaining question is will it fit in the Jess Em?

I couldn't see where the maximum body size was stated, but you make reference to not fitting so I am assuming you have the dimension somewhere.

This is another link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-2KW-WATER-...item3a61ccd6b5

I still have to look at the "Cleansweep" (tonight) so I don't know if these motors are compatible in that regard. Water cooling will take care of the dust aspect as noted by BobL. Oh, there remains the issue of bearings when mounted upside down, but I would be surprised, frankly, if that is an issue. Lateral forces are the big issue with a router.

Regards
Paul

Regards
Paul

Interesting.
Modern Canadian house wiring is 3-wire with a 240VAC house-feed. That implies that red and black are hot and white is neutral. Green is ground, as usual.
I see 240 across the red and black, 120 on each side of the white. The application is that the kitchen plugs can be in the same duplex outlet but on two different 15A circuits. I rigged a plug that gave me 240 in the kitchen for the coffee pot and electric frypan plus other household stuff that came back with me from OZ.

The motors look like a dead short when they start. The inrush current to get them rolling is about 2X the running amps, it's enough to dim a light in the same circuit. eg my fridge and my dining room light fixture!

If you had a 240VAC line at 15 amps, that's just nice to feed a 3.5kW stepdown, as most of our smaller power tools don't suck more than 12-15A @ 120VAC.

Any updates on this? I am going through the same thing myself without any luck

No

I emailed incra about this the other day. Here is the response regarding mounting a 100mm spindle:

You are correct, the 100mm diameter is between the midsize routers and the 3hp models. Your best bet would be to get a lift that would accommodate either the Porter Cable 7518 (4.200") or the Milwaukee 5625 (4.140") and then coming up with a shim or spacer to take up the excess clearance. A 0.131" thick spacer would be appropriate for a router lift carriage that's set up to accommodate the Porter-Cable 7518. Either our PRL-V2 or the MastRLift - II would work just fine.