Thread: Stepdown Transformers 240v to 110v for 2000w router motor

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Chas, to be clear, does that mean if the device isn't being handled (as it wouldn't, in a router lift) it would be okay? Otherwise, how could they sell such a device as the one I linked to in Australia?

Oh they can pretty well sell anything - it's up to an individual whether they choose to use it.

Good pick up by Chas, I didn't realise it was an auto transformer.

We used a number of auto transformers at work up until a few years ago when we got the official "cease and desist" notice and they were all disposed of. I managed to grab one and because this one could go to UP to about 300V I ended up running my dishwasher on it for about a year. We never had a problem but I have heard of problems with them.

The dishwasher case was unusual as there was something wrong with the dishwasher control board and it would not work at less than 240V. As soon as local supply V went down to less than that it stopped working. Anyway I drove it with the auto transformer set at 245V but after awhile that stopped working and had to use 250V and it kept creeping upwards. When it got to 260V I had to stop as it was just too dangerous to keep pushing it.

"Likely to be handled during use"" is unlikely to just mean "to rout wood". It would include things such as changing cutters and it wouldn't be sufficient to say I'll turn it off at the power point to change the cutter. Even cranking it up and down or touching the router table may constitute handling. Not handling in regular use would be a fan with a remote control or a remotely switched pump.

Originally Posted by BobL

Oh they can pretty well sell anything - it's up to an individual whether they choose to use it.

Good pick up by Chas, I didn't realise it was an auto transformer.

We used a number of auto transformers at work up until a few years ago when we got the official "cease and desist" notice and they were all disposed of. I managed to grab one and because this one could go to UP to about 300V I ended up running my dishwasher on it for about a year. We never had a problem but I have heard of problems with them.

"Likely to be handled during use"" is unlikely to just mean "to rout wood". It would include things such as changing cutters and it wouldn't be sufficient to say I'll turn it off at the power point to change the cutter. Even cranking it up and down or touching the router table may constitute handling. Not handling in regular use would be a fan with a remote control or a remotely switched pump.

Cheers Bob, and I was kinda hoping you would say exactly that - remote control. That is how I operate the current Triton, with one of those remote sockets. In essence, the only time the router is powered on is when it's spinning. My intention would be to operate the transformer the same way (he says, hoping there's no obstacle to this). In other words, if I'm not handling it when it's powered, then it should be ok. - I think

Although you start it up via remote control, when you push a piece of wood over an aluminium router plate that is connected to a 120V 60 Hz rated motor that is in turn connected to an auto transformer you are handling the equipment that has the potential to become alive.
IMO, phafing about with transformers and 50/60 Hz problems isn't worth the hassle.
These look good and would be my choice. They appear to be similar to the Unilift, which I have, and I am very happy with it. I could bring it along on the 2nd if you want a look.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Cheers Bob, and I was kinda hoping you would say exactly that - remote control. That is how I operate the current Triton, with one of those remote sockets. In essence, the only time the router is powered on is when it's spinning. My intention would be to operate the transformer the same way (he says, hoping there's no obstacle to this). In other words, if I'm not handling it when it's powered, then it should be ok. - I think

I don't think you understood what I wrote.

""Likely to be handled during use"" is unlikely to just mean "to rout wood". It would include things such as changing cutters and it wouldn't be sufficient to say I'll turn it off at the power point to change the cutter. Even cranking it up and down or touching the router table may constitute handling. Not handling in regular use would be a fan with a remote control or a remotely switched pump."

This website has a good comparison between auto and isolating http://www.tortech.com.au/isocompare/?___store=default

Also this looks like what you should use http://www.tortech.com.au/category/s...wn-transformer
As Chas says "she no cheap".

Originally Posted by NCArcher

Although you start it up via remote control, when you push a piece of wood over an aluminium router plate that is connected to a 120V 60 Hz rated motor that is in turn connected to an auto transformer you are handling the equipment that has the potential to become alive.
IMO, phafing about with transformers and 50/60 Hz problems isn't worth the hassle.
These look good and would be my choice. They appear to be similar to the Unilift, which I have, and I am very happy with it. I could bring it along on the 2nd if you want a look.

Tony

I have to agree with you on the 60/50Hz issue.

The router lift you have identified is the plunge version of the fixed base Brett is looking at, but I can see some stumbling blocks:

It doesn't fit the Triton (Unilift does)
It may be more than US$179 here in Oz, although I couldn't quickly see a price on the Gregory machinery site.

All those lifts are beautiful bits of gear. Excuse me, I have to go and wipe off some drool .

Regards
Paul

Yes, I made mention of Gregory's in the other thread. Didn't get the chance to call today, to find out the price.......

Actually, I wouldn't mind having a look at it, if it's easy enough to bring along.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

It doesn't fit the Triton (Unilift does)
It may be more than US$179 here in Oz, although I couldn't quickly see a price on the Gregory machinery site.

I think it will DEFINITELY be more than $179. And Brett is looking at buying a new router anyway.
Plug and play. No messing about and full warranties as well. The 120V motors may not be covered by warranty if used with a transformer at a non rated frequency. Lower frequency draws more current for the same power output.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Actually, I wouldn't mind having a look at it, if it's easy enough to bring along.

No problem. Whole thing just drops into the table. I just have to unplug the Wixey, although it's easy enough to bring that as well.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

Although you start it up via remote control, when you push a piece of wood over an aluminium router plate that is connected to a 120V 60 Hz rated motor that is in turn connected to an auto transformer you are handling the equipment that has the potential to become alive

Ah, . . . . . Yep! - thats what I meant to say in my post about handling

IMO, phafing about with transformers and 50/60 Hz problems isn't worth the hassle.

Yep again.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

I think it will DEFINITELY be more than $179.

And you'd be right.

$465 inc Gst

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

And you'd be right.

$465 inc Gst

$465 is not too bad. The Unilift was around $600 I think
EDIT: just checked - $655 but that included the Wixey which is $175

Tony, what router are you running in your table?

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Tony, what router are you running in your table?

An old Makita 3600BR. Single speed but plenty of grunt. I'm waiting for it to die before I upgrade but it just keeps working.
That's the beauty of the Unilift type router lifts. I can mount any router in it.

Ok then, the stepdown transformer idea has to go because it's just too expensive (well over a $grand just for the router motor if it's 110v).

I'm a bit of a persistent chuff, and I haven't yet finished with the idea of getting a European motor happening. I had a look at the Suhner site (the manufacturer of that red jobbie) and I have sent them an email with some questions and ideas for possible mods to it. The smaller 1050watt motor as a smaller diameter which would work (75mm from memory), but a) it's underpowered, although they are Swiss watts, not Chinese or Mexican watts, and more importantly b) the maximum collet size is 10mm, and that means the largest usable collet would be the Euro 8mm router bits.

Some of the questions that I asked them were:

• can the red casing be taken off because the motor body is 90mm - just over the 88.9mm (3½") max of the JessEm lift, but there must be a bit of wriggle room so that the motor can be removed. However, I suspect the answer to the question will be an emphatic "Nein, dummkopf!" I'm also pretty sure that they would require it to be mounted by the 43mm collar anyway. That is difficult because it would make the motor sit too low in the Lift, and it wouldn't protrude above the table. Mind you, the USA system always has the motors held by the body, so it must work ok.....
• Is it possible to make a mod so that it can take ER20 collets (I think not).
• Have they got any other ideas?
• Failing that, I'll ask them if they know of any other brands that could be investigated - not holding my breath

I did suggest to them that there may be quite a considerable market for a slightly smaller motor that can be used in such lifts - the entire European market, and our little speck, just for starters. That would also mean a fair bit of extra export business for the Lift makers. What are my chances do you think?