Thread: Stepdown Transformers 240v to 110v for 2000w router motor

Perhaps they say it might be difficult to fit because the body of the European one is not round like most of the US routers. Also diameter of the body might be a concern as the shafts under the router lift are reasonably close together?

Have you considered something like this, as used in a lot of CNC router setups?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-BEARING...item3cd0f04bff

Brett

When I saw your thread I immediately thought of the CNC gear such as this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WATER-COO...4c48fa2&_uhb=1

Then I scrolled down and saw Fred's post. So that is two of us that have thought along the same lines. A quick glance showed motors from 1.5KW to 4KW, but the latter was over $700: Around $350 for 2.2KW. Google "VFD router" and it should bring up a selection. You would just have to check the body diameter to make sure they are compatible.

An added advantage is that with the VFD (VSD is the same thing) you will have a vast, infinitely variable speed range.

Regards
Paul

Brett

The possible advantage of the step down transformer is that you could conceiveably run other 110v devices using that transformer. The disadvantage is that the motors will run slower. 60Hz is 3600rpm while our power is generated at 50Hz and 3000rpm. The site indicated a 10% speed reduction, but I make that a 16% reduction.

One other point is that in a table mounted router I think variable speed is essential. One of the big advantages of the table mount is the facility to use larger diameter router bits safely. Once the bit diameter exceeds 25mm you need to be able to reduce the speed. A large panel raising bit may need to be run at close to half the maximum rated speed for example.

Regards
Paul

Mmmmm Brett......New Router Table.......you know what is next.......bigger shed.....you know what that means.....

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

An added advantage is that with the VFD (VSD is the same thing) you will have a vast, infinitely variable speed range.

Another advantage is that they use the ER20 collets so they can cater for both Imperial and Metric size cutters, which could be a problem with the US and European routers, usually they cater for one or the other.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ER20-Precisi...item232ba1a67b

1-13mm in 1mm steps

I think I would favour the air-colled spindle over the water-cooled, just another added complexity and I have never been an advocate of mixing water with electrickery.

Hi,
You can run less powerful items on a bigger transformer but you can not run more than the transformer rating, so buy one bigger than you need. Just to have a bit in hand.
Regards

oops - didn't realise I had autoreload off.

Thanks Fred and Paul for your responses.

Fred I think he was just copping out from lack of knowledge, so maybe I can get the German vendor to send me a clearer diagram. To me, it looks like the body is a 104mm circle, with the corners added on, and I would have thought that could be mounted in the lift.






Your link shows that the inverter is Huanyang (which I seem to see mentioned a fair bit in the forums). Are they a trustworthy brand? The motor is (so far) unbranded.

"and I have never been an advocate of mixing water with electrickery."
Yup, especially Chinese Electrickery. White man's magic sometimes.

Paul, yes I'm on top of the variable speed - already have that with the Triton that is set up in the current rather-too-small table.

Regarding collets, the Europeans seem to be on top of this far more than the yanks. E.g. Festool supply ¼ & ½" and 8 & 12mm collets for all their routers.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

. . . To me, it looks like the body is a 104mm circle, with the corners added on, and I would have thought that could be mounted in the lift.

The radius of curvature of the sides is much greater than 104mm.
The minimum circle that body will fit through is 115 mm
I'm not sure if you intend to hold the body. My understanding is they should be held by the solid metal behind the collet.

Your link shows that the inverter is Huanyang (which I seem to see mentioned a fair bit in the forums). Are they a trustworthy brand? The motor is (so far) unbranded.

Lots of people using these on the forum. So far I have only heard of one failing.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

The biggest motor on the USA market is 3¼HP, so say 2500 watts. This transformer should cover it, according to the website. For a smaller motor I may be able to drop down to the ST 2000, BUT it's probably a good idea to have ample power coverage - just in case another 110v tool lands in my shop..

If I were you, I'd still go larger. After all you'll be driving a motor (regardless of size) so you should also allow for start-up current draw. I also couldn't see whether the 3000W rating is for continuous draw or merely peak.

The 4000W model is only a few bucks more... and it's always nice to have that safety margin when it comes to 'leccy ratings.

(Have I mentioned to you before that I've been playing with the idea of adding a 120V~ circuit to my shed since coming back to Oz? )

Originally Posted by BobL

The radius of curvature of the sides is much greater than 104mm.
The minimum circle that body will fit through is 115 mm

Bob, the holding mechanism is this:



The four brass-coloured parts. However, you may well be right about it being held by the 43mm collet, especially if the body is a plastic case.

Yes, understood about the radius, and needing a 115mm circle.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Another advantage is that they use the ER20 collets so they can cater for both Imperial and Metric size cutters, which could be a problem with the US and European routers, usually they cater for one or the other.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ER20-Precisi...item232ba1a67b

1-13mm in 1mm steps

I think I would favour the air-colled spindle over the water-cooled, just another added complexity and I have never been an advocate of mixing water with electrickery.

Fred

I agree. I just picked the first listing that came up as an example.

Just out of interest we use water to cool our generator at work. In fact the conductors in the stator are hollow and we run the water through them. It is Demineralised water however, and it would be catastrophic if the purity became contaminated.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

If I were you, I'd still go larger. After all you'll be driving a motor (regardless of size) so you should also allow for start-up current draw. I also couldn't see whether the 3000W rating is for continuous draw or merely peak.

The 4000W model is only a few bucks more... and it's always nice to have that safety margin when it comes to 'leccy ratings.

Good point, and agreed.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

(Have I mentioned to you before that I've been playing with the idea of adding a 120V~ circuit to my shed since coming back to Oz? )

Is that for tools that you and/or the Gal have from Canada?

Brett

I haven't looked deeply into this Master lift, but a couple of comments from a cursory glance are that it only appears to have two inserts to reduce the hole diameter for the bit and that handwheel looks like it would be an issue in a restricted workplace such as yours. In fact I am mindful of how concerned you were of protruding objects when you recessed knob for the HNT tail vice in your bench.

Knowing how well you research these things I assume you have looked at the Incra and Woodpecker offerings. They both have a wide range of insert reducers and height adjustment is from the top.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Is that for tools that you and/or the Gal have from Canada?

Yes and no. It's for the tools I want to get from Canadia if/when I install a 120V~ circuit.

I'm also keeping in mind that sometime in the future I'll be migrating the shed over there. Every time I've looked into it, it's more effective (& much cheaper) to buy 120V~ tools and run them here with a step-down than it is to take my current kit over there and try to run them on a 240 step-up.