Autumn classics

**Isaac S** · 28th November 2013, 03:30 AM

Originally Posted by planemaker

Hi Isaac. Of note on your site you have preference to use 0.015" and 0.018" saw plate for your backsaws up to a limit of 2 inches in depth. For deeper saw plate's that preference changes to 0.020" and 0.025". For the benefit of new backsaw makers, what are the concerns with using the lighter gauge saw steel on depths of plate above 2 inches.

Stewie;

Blackburn Tools - New saws and accessories for sale

Basically, the thinner plate has less stiffness and is more prone to deflection and wandering. The deeper you go, the more you have to worry about it. This is more of a concern with rip saws, since the teeth may be inclined to follow the grain. This is why I and others will make a 12" or 14" crosscut saw with a 0.020" plate, but recommend using a 0.025" thick plate if you file the same saw rip.

Another concern is kinking the blade if it catches or binds in the cut. It is easier to buckle thinner, larger plates of steel.

Finally, there can be some concern over buckling from heat. In saws with fairly little set, you can get enough heat buildup that the steel expands in deep cuts. It is not enough to affect the temper, but it can get uncomfortably hot. Since the back or spine restricts expansion at the back edge, but not at the teeth, the blade will warp. This can lead to some really wacky and inaccurate cuts. Thicker steel has more mass to absorb the heat from the friction, so it takes more effort to warp it. Since rip saws are more likely to be used in deep cuts, this is another reason to go with thicker blades for them.

**planemaker** · 28th November 2013, 09:30 AM

Originally Posted by Isaac S

Basically, the thinner plate has less stiffness and is more prone to deflection and wandering. The deeper you go, the more you have to worry about it. This is more of a concern with rip saws, since the teeth may be inclined to follow the grain. This is why I and others will make a 12" or 14" crosscut saw with a 0.020" plate, but recommend using a 0.025" thick plate if you file the same saw rip.

Another concern is kinking the blade if it catches or binds in the cut. It is easier to buckle thinner, larger plates of steel.

Finally, there can be some concern over buckling from heat. In saws with fairly little set, you can get enough heat buildup that the steel expands in deep cuts. It is not enough to affect the temper, but it can get uncomfortably hot. Since the back or spine restricts expansion at the back edge, but not at the teeth, the blade will warp. This can lead to some really wacky and inaccurate cuts. Thicker steel has more mass to absorb the heat from the friction, so it takes more effort to warp it. Since rip saws are more likely to be used in deep cuts, this is another reason to go with thicker blades for them.

Thanks Isaac. Very well explained.

Stewie;

**DSEL74** · 28th November 2013, 10:14 AM

That is a great explanation of the saw plate Isaac. I was unaware of the RIP vs Crosscut issue when selection thickness, learn something new everyday…..That's why we want you guys here!!!

Those are a beautiful set of saws and the figure in the timber is magic. Is that walnut crotch??

**Isaac S** · 28th November 2013, 11:55 AM

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Those are a beautiful set of saws and the figure in the timber is magic. Is that walnut crotch??

Thanks Dale. Yes, that is walnut crotch.

**DSEL74** · 28th November 2013, 12:02 PM

Originally Posted by Isaac S

Thanks Dale. Yes, that is walnut crotch.

Ahhh who doesn't like a nice piece of crotch

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