Thread: Saw making, Bladeslot and fitting in the spine

Originally Posted by DSEL74

The little jig your using to hold the end on the spine in the vise is that all that supports it during the shaping??

It was on the first spines I made. Now I support the toe with a beam and 2 clamps and reclamp in every step. But I don't have a picture of this.

Cheers
Pedder

Originally Posted by pedder

The spine filing is easy but time consuming. I work about 3 hours to this point:
Attachment 295941

Cheers
Pedder

Hi Pedder,

Is that a holding jig that you have clamped in the vise so as to not disturb the end of the back that fits into the mortise while you shape the sides of the back?

Have you tried scraping the brass in addition to filing it? A scraper can remove a lot of metal quite fast.

Thanks,
Marv

Originally Posted by MarvW

Is that a holding jig that you have clamped in the vise so as to not disturb the end of the back that fits into the mortise while you shape the sides of the back?

Hi Marv, exactly, I couldn't describe it better

Originally Posted by MarvW

Have you tried scraping the brass in addition to filing it? A scraper can remove a lot of metal quite fast.

Yes I've tried, but it doesn't leave a better finish than the file. It is not the main problem to remove a lot of brass, but to do it as exactly as possible and very clean from the first file stroke. Filing is finished after 15 minutes. After that it is sanding. And sanding and a little more sanding from G 120- G 3000 (don't skip a grain), than a short period of polishing (three minutes) and turning to the other side. You really have to like sanding to do that. Good music and a Coffee helps, too.

Cheers PEdder

Originally Posted by Heavansabove

Is the drill press a standard commercial product, or a custom job. I have never seen anything as robust, or flexible, as this for a drill.

Hi Peter,

it's a commercial product that is rather common in Germany. The brand is Wabeco. It's that common because of it's versatility. Many tasks of woodworking will be done rather good by this drill press. For metalwork I wouldn't recommend it because it isn't that sturdy one want's to have while working metal.

As I know since a few days, there's at least one of those down under. It was pimped in a very special way. It's done that good and impressive that I want to copy some of those awesome ideas.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/wo...omised-158214/

Cheers
Klaus

Originally Posted by KlausK

Hi Peter,

it's a commercial product that is rather common in Germany. The brand is Wabeco. It's that common because of it's versatility. Many tasks of woodworking will be done rather good by this drill press. For metalwork I wouldn't recommend it because it isn't that sturdy one want's to have while working metal.

As I know since a few days, there's at least one of those down under. It was pimped in a very special way. It's done that good and impressive that I want to copy some of those awesome ideas.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/wo...omised-158214/

Thanks Klaus, I have been in Brett's shed and seen the drill stand. Mea culpa, I did not examine the setup at all! A quick google, and I see this is not a cheap option, even in Germany. Now I wonder if I can get a right angle saw arbor/chuck for my bench top drill press (my only machine tool)? I fear that hand sawing is it for me.

Cheers
Peter

Originally Posted by Heavansabove

Thanks Klaus, I have been in Brett's shed and seen the drill stand. Mea culpa, I did not examine the setup at all! A quick google, and I see this is not a cheap option, even in Germany. Now I wonder if I can get a right angle saw arbor/chuck for my bench top drill press (my only machine tool)? I fear that hand sawing is it for me.

Peter,

the hand sawing of the blade slot is tricky but doable. To me it works quite good if I do at first an initial cut around the frontend of the handle with the depth of about 5 or 6 mm with a fine bladed dovetail saw. It's quite the same cut that I do with the drill stand. The following deepening of the cut with a dovetail saw is not that difficult after that.

Cheers
Klaus

Thanks for posting Klaus. Interesting little jig you have there. I do the same thing with my small mill, but horizontally. Your handles will be a classic someday.

Originally Posted by Ron Bontz

Thanks for posting Klaus. Interesting little jig you have there. I do the same thing with my small mill, but horizontally. Your handles will be a classic someday.

Hi Ron,

another fellow saw maker here, I'm happy! Looks like these guys here down under become to be a hot spot!

Cheers
Klaus

Originally Posted by planemaker

Hi Klaus.. You will pleased to know I have following your lead and have completed a haunched mortise fit to the brass back & handle on the burdekin plum backsaw build. It will also become a dt but differ in that it will have a much lower hang angle so the controlling hand is more behind the stroke. Too early for photo's yet.
Stewie;

Hi Stewie,

excuse me please that I nearly have overseen this post. The haunched mortise will do great service for a flush mounted spine. If the spine is mounted proud of the cheeks it doesn't need to have a haunched mortise IMHO. In any case I'm excited to see your next saw however!

Cheers
Klaus

Originally Posted by KlausK

Hi Stewie,

excuse me please that I nearly have overseen this post. The haunched mortise will do great service for a flush mounted spine. If the spine is mounted proud of the cheeks it doesn't need to have a haunched mortise IMHO. In any case I'm excited to see your next saw however!

Cheers
Klaus

Hi Klaus. A lot of my recent backsaws I have reduced the height of my brass hardbacks from 19mm down to 13mm. This was done in an effort to reduce the overall weight of the saw in front of the handle. IMO its been a most successful experiment. But it seemed the right timing for me to try something new such as it keeps the mind fresh. Trialing a mortice fit such as you and Pedder use with your backsaws seemed most interesting to give a go. To achieve this I am keeping with the 19mm. Using the term Haunched Mortise is quite quite an accurate description from a joinery perspective as sides of the tenon remains flush, not as you would normally see with the rails on a traditional panel door frame. But that's okay. I am also keeping the top line of the spine slightly proud to the top of the mortise, not flush as you prefer. Will see how it all pans out.

Stewie;