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2nd December 2013, 12:49 AM #1
Saw making, Bladeslot and fitting in the spine
Hi Handtoolers,
in another thread I was asked to share the methodology how Pedder and I fit in the spine. I want to show a few pics that should make it clear. The example shows a saw with a ovally filed and polished spine that is inserted flush to the top of the cheeks.
The first step is the making of the blade slot. I use a horizontally fixed drilling machine with a circular saw blade that is designed to cut metal. It's thickness is 0.5 mm. The handle blank is fixed in a vise that is movable because it is sitting on a cross table. So the adjustment is relatively easy.
P1020322.JPG
Since the circular blade doesn't have any set, one can do only the initial cut with the depth of about 5 or 6 mm. If you go deeper, the blade will bend and destroy the cut. The rest of the blade slot can be cut easily by hand because the predone 5mm-slot serves well as a guide.
P1020339.JPG P1020430.JPG
The same set up will be used for the sides of the mortise for the spine. It can be done in the whole needed depth since the predone bladeslot allows enough movement for the slim piece of wood that the saw blade doesn't bend. Due to the circular shape of the blade, the sides can't be sawed the whole depth and length however.
P1020368.JPG P1020369.JPG
The above shown pics are from former times. The following are actual and show therefore another handle. It's one out of Karelian birch, also known as Masur birch. At first a pic of the already ovally filed spine. You will see, that the rear end of the spine is shaped in a unusual way. We do that because we think that this shape with the corresponding shape of the mortise help to keep the top of the spine flush to the handle top.
P1030889.jpg P1030891.jpg
As you can see, the sharp edges of the spine are filed dull where the spine sits in the handle. That helps to prevent damages of the crisp shaped edges of the mortise while the spine has to be taken out and reinserted what happens several times while making the saw.
Here's the handle.
P1030892.jpg
And here you will see the inside shape of the mortise.
P1030894.jpg
At last 2 pics that show the inserted spine.
P1030899.jpg P1030901.jpg
Thanks for looking.
Klaus
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2nd December 2013 12:49 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd December 2013, 07:52 AM #2
Thankyou, Klaus. I sometimes start the slot with a slitting saw, too. If I am doing several handles, I use the slitting saw, but for a single handle, I usually can't be bothered setting up the saw, so I will make the whole slot with a hand-held saw. However, my slitting saw setup is very crude compared with yours, just the saw chucked in my drill-press. (It looks rather scary, too, so I'll not make it public. ).
One reason I asked how you made the slot was because in one picture I saw, the oval spine appeared to continue in a perfect fit into the handle, but I think it was my eye being tricked, because as you clearly show, the handle part of the spine remains un-shaped, apart from the little step. I like to put a bold chamfer along the bottom edge of the spine, which causes some trouble when fitting. I have tried stopping the chamfer when it reaches the handle, and shaping the bottom of the handle slot to accommodate the chamfer, & it is tricky to get a really seamless fit either way. I have noticed on old saws that the slot for the spine is often quite roughly made. That may not affect performance, but I try to do as good a job of it as I can!
Cheers,IW
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2nd December 2013, 09:30 AM #3
Thanks Klaus, a very nice breakdown. We will have all your secrets soon.
Look forward to part 2, shaping and polishing the spine.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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2nd December 2013, 09:44 AM #4
Thanks Klaus, nice simple setups, and not too much heavy machinery, just a good use of a drill press and electric drill. ... How are you slitting the brass?
You might like to know, that it was one of your saws that inspired Dale to organize the backsaw making workshop, so you can take a bow.
Regards
Ray
PS. It was the ebony handled one.
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2nd December 2013, 10:42 AM #5Deceased
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A very detailed post full of high quality information Klaus. Thank you. A great source of inspiration for our up and coming saw makers to what can be achieved given the right mind set. The mortise fit on your backsaws are the best I have seen by far. We are indeed most fortunate on this forum site to have such experienced saw makers as yourself, Isaac, & Marv, willing to share their knowledge & experience in an effort to assist up an coming saw makers learn this craft. A most generous gift.
Stewie;
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2nd December 2013, 09:35 PM #6
Hi Ian,
to me it's less tricky to stop the bottom chamfer of the spine than to shape the slot bottom of the handle according to the chamfer shape. Indeed I agree, that the fitting in of the spine on vintage saws often was made sort of crude. But one thing the former saw makers did always perfectly. That's the parallelism between blade slot and spine mortise. You hardly will see a vintage backsaw with a bow in the blade beneath the cheeks (aside the saw was damaged of course).
I like a proper connection between spine and handle because it shows some of the pride from the maker that went into the tool.
Cheers
Klaus
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2nd December 2013, 09:38 PM #7
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2nd December 2013, 09:43 PM #8
Hi Ray,
nice to hear from you.
Our brass backs will be slitted by a machinist on a CNC mill. He uses carbide saw blades in different widths to do that. Since this man makes the slots in this way, we never had one less than perfect spine blank again.
It makes Pedder and me very proud that the dovetail saw we made for you was that inspirational. Wow!
Cheers
Klaus
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2nd December 2013, 09:44 PM #9
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3rd December 2013, 08:14 AM #10
Absolutely. I could not agree more. With respect to older saws, I sometimes wonder if the loose fitting of the spine wasn't deliberate, so that there would be less chance of distortion after tightening the bolts, caused by mis-match of the respective slots.
I have seen a few old saws with bowed blades caused by less-than-perfect fitting of their handles - there have to be a few that escape QC, I suppose.
Seems like you read the instructions on 'how to make a chair', that I saw somewhere, years ago. It was the same, essentially. "Take several pieces of wood, knock off the bits that don't look like a chair, then stick what is left together until it does..." Probably dates from pre-historic times.
Cheers,IW
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3rd December 2013, 10:00 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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Great work Klaus, that is a lot of dedicated file work, and W & D paper, and polishing (I assume on a power polisher). After filing small chamfers, I decided I liked square.
Is the drill press a standard commercial product, or a custom job. I have never seen anything as robust, or flexible, as this for a drill.
Cheers
Peter
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3rd December 2013, 11:31 AM #12Deceased
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3rd December 2013, 03:43 PM #13Deceased
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Hi Klaus.. You will pleased to know I have following your lead and have completed a haunched mortise fit to the brass back & handle on the burdekin plum backsaw build. It will also become a dt but differ in that it will have a much lower hang angle so the controlling hand is more behind the stroke. Too early for photo's yet.
Stewie;
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3rd December 2013, 11:48 PM #14Member
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The spine filing is easy but time consuming. I work about 3 hours to this point:
IMG_0191.JPG
Cheers
Pedder
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3rd December 2013, 11:59 PM #15Deceased
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