Bowsaw

**derekcohen** · 31st May 2005, 12:45 AM

Finished a bowsaw. I really enjoyed this project. After the recent family-orientated pieces (bed and chest of drawers for my son), I took time out for something different. Making tools always seems to bring with it its own sense of satisfaction, and this just continues when you make something with the tool you made.

Anyway I digress. This is my first ever bowsaw. Never even used one before. The impetus came from a Perth woodwork association I recently joined. They will be exhibiting works made by members at the next Perth Wood Show, only thing is that the items have to be made from two rough sawn blocks of timber, one Australian Jarrah, the other American Oak, both 12”x6”x 1-1/2”. So I decided to build a bowsaw (well, I wanted to build one anyway).

I was somewhat inspired by one of the bowsaws in Sandor Nagyszalanczy’s book, “The Art of Tools” (see page 101). God, that is stunning. Well, I said I was inspired – I did not say I was capable.

What I enjoyed was building curves (after all the straight furniture). Out came some of the spokeshaves. My favourite is the Stanley #53 (adjustable mouth spokeshave) while the #55 (convex spokeshave) was essential. I also had a new Veritas spokeshave (modern low angle spokeshave), and this promises to be good but I found it quite different in practice to the others.

As you will see from the picture, I used a little artistic license. I suppose I should name it something like “Hands across the Pond” or “International Harmony”, or something. This was the first time I have used American Oak, and I was lucky to have been given a quartersawn piece. It feels like it will hold up to the stresses.

I’m afraid a few electrons did get burned here. I cut out the pieces on my bandsaw, and I used my $69 lathe to turn the handles (almost another first here as well – just my third time at a lathe). The rest was made with spokeshaves and scrapers. The blade comes out of a bandsaw, 6 tpi. I was a little unsure whether to use it or not, or file one myself, but I had a spare one (pre-riser kit on my 14” machine) and thought to give it a go. The blade length is 11”. The blade holders were made out of brass bolts, cut down the center and then tapped for screws. I am not sure what timber the spinner is made out of – just a piece of burl I had in my scraps box.

And just for those who like tools, there are the spokeshaves I used.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**Cliff Rogers** · 31st May 2005, 12:51 AM

Yes... very nice Derek... but does it work?

**geppetto** · 31st May 2005, 01:01 AM

Hi Derek,

Very great and fine job

!!

**AlexS** · 31st May 2005, 01:24 PM

Very nice, Derek, there's always something very satisfying about using a tool you have made yourself.

**Harry72** · 31st May 2005, 09:51 PM

" or file one myself, but I had a spare one"
I had to read that a few times, that'll be the ultimate darkside... Lord DerekVader!

Nice work BTW, now you should make a few more in different sizes to make a set.

**routermaniac** · 31st May 2005, 10:28 PM

nice implementation. really like the curves.

With regards to the handles how did you attach these to the rest of the frame. Also it seems that you have turned the inside of the handle... or is it that you have turned a lip and then drilled it out?

well done

Marios

PS I have been playing around with making a couple of chisels (handles) as well, will post as soon as they are finished.

**IanW** · 1st June 2005, 09:49 AM

VERY sensual curves, Derek!
Makes my two saws (a 10", and one to take coping-saw blades) look positively dowdy. For anyone wanting to make one, I recommend Blackwood for arms and stretchers - good balance of toughness and density.
Interesting handle arrangement - do you have wood bearing against wood? For mine, I turned some brass rod down to get a collar, which takes the tension - this has a 14G brass screw let into the end (and soldered) which supports the handle. My main mistake was to make only one handle - I soon found out why they usually have two - it is much easier to turn the blade when working around odd shapes.
Looks like you've used synthetic cord for tensioning - me too, but it's a bit too stretchy. I keep meaning to get hold of some rawhide, which is supposed to be the right stuff - someday..... For my first effort I used some twisted 18G wire, a 3/16 bolt and wing nut to tension it. Worked ok, but looked really crass.
Nice job - that chest of drawers finished already??
Cheers,

**derekcohen** · 1st June 2005, 01:32 PM

Hi Ian

Not having used a bowsaw before, I was a little naive about the demands (of tensioning) the timber, but it feels taut and solid and no danger signs (yet) of anything breaking. It is cutting a nice, straight line. I will try out a few dovetails this weekend.

The cord is waxed cotton, which I believe is traditional. I made this up. Could have used a leather shoelace but thought that this would be likely to separate. The cotton does not appear to stretch.

Oh, the chest of drawers was completed several months ago now. I posted this at the time. See below.

Regards from Perth

Derek

**IanW** · 1st June 2005, 02:13 PM

Originally Posted by derekcohen

It is cutting a nice, straight line. I will try out a few dovetails this weekend.

Straight cuts are what it's all about! Be interesting to hear how you get on doing dovetails with it.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The cord is waxed cotton, which I believe is traditional. I made this up. Could have used a leather shoelace but thought that this would be likely to separate. The cotton does not appear to stretch.

Haven't heard of using cotton before, all the suggestions I've read say rawhide (& have seen a couple of oldies with leather cords). But cotton has to be better than the venetian cord I've been using. Where do you acquire cotton cording of the thickness you've used?

I was lazy and used blades from Lee valley for the couple of saws I've made, but have been meaning to try out bits of bandsaw blade for years. How did you drill the holes? I was shown a trick by an old metal worker that you might find useful if you don't already know it. You can anneal thin spring steel locally by chucking a nail with one end squared off, in the drill press. Run the drill at high speed and bear down on the spot you want to anneal until it gets red-hot. Let cool, and you can then dril easily with a regular HSS drill.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Oh, the chest of drawers was completed several months ago now. I posted this at the time. See below.

You started that chest of drawers about the time I started my desk. My desk is still in pieces - all the panels glued up and sliding dovetails cut, but waiting for the drawer-runners/lopers unit to be mated with the writing surface so it can all be slid home together during final assmbly. That's about a long half-days' work, then there's the gallery and flap-front to do. I doubt I'll be typing on it before Christmas rolls around.

Not fair. You obviously don't spend enough time at work, young man!!

Cheers,

**derekcohen** · 1st June 2005, 02:28 PM

Hi Ian

Where do you acquire cotton cording of the thickness you've used?

Just cotton string (well, the blurb says it is made of cotton). I just waxed it using a candle.

How did you drill the holes?

The bandsaw steel is quite thin. I tapped an indent, then used a very thin HSS drill bit, gradually increasing sizes until it was large enough to tap the thread for the screw.

Not fair. You obviously don't spend enough time at work, young man!!

Listen, my constructions are no where as complex as yours! My attention span does not stretch that far!

Regards from Perth

Derek

**IanW** · 1st June 2005, 02:43 PM

Originally Posted by derekcohen

My attention span does not stretch that far!
Derek

Dunno - you seem to be able to address those waterstones for a while!

My construction speed (or lack thereof) has got a little to do with complexity, and a lot to do with advancing decrepitude and poor time management! (Very sad emoticon needed here).

Anyway - must stop this dissembling, or I will never get home tonight!
Cheers,

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