Thread: Burl Backsaw build.

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Stewie,

No doubt about it, you saws just get better and better... I want a workshop calendar with that burl handled saw

On the question of spine weight, I've done 14" with 3/4 x 1/4 spine and it feels ok. On the other hand, if you want to try out a heavier spine, just let me know and I'll slit some for you.

The 14" one was with 20 thou plate as well, it cut like a laser.

There's still 30 meters of 3/4 x 3/8 brass sitting in my workshop that George White delivered by mistake... I'm hoping they can pick it up next week.

Ray

PS.. I'm hoping to be back making saws soon.

Hi Ray. Look forward to when you get back into some backsaw builds.

regards; Stewie.

The shellac finish has been completed to the handle.

Each of the surface defects seen in the photo's have been treated with Cyanoacrylate adhesive to maximise their integrity.


Next is to shape the brass back .

Stewie;

Stewie
There not surface defects
There character part off the one that makes a whole.
It's looking great
Makes me want to start making another saw

Yeah, very nice indeed Stewie. As Matt says, it's all character.

Completed the shaping of the brass back. A brass darkening solution was also applied to enrich the patina.

Stewie;

Hi Stewie,

Looks good!

What was the brass darkening solution? I read somewhere that garlic will darken brass. ( plus keeps the vampires away from your saws )

Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Stewie,

Looks good!

What was the brass darkening solution? I read somewhere that garlic will darken brass. ( plus keeps the vampires away from your saws )

Ray

Birchwood Casey Brass Black.

The brass back has been bonded in place with a full length bead of Loctite on both sides of the saw plate. That will prevent the possibility of corrosion ever taking hold within the section of saw plate inside the slot.

As I am wanting a slight aged appearance to the backsaw, I have treated the saw plate with Cold Metal Blue, that's then been rubbed back to a lighter hue 30 min after application. The saw plate is then well soaked in WD-40 to stop further blueing. When fully complete the saw plate assembly will be thoroughly rubbed down with a buffed soft paste wax.

I will leave the assembled backsaw hanging to fully dry off, until I am ready to apply masking tape to each side of the saw plate and start hand filing the saw teeth. Yep. The old traditional way.

The masking tape will protect the saw plate from being scratched while positioned in the saw sharpening vise.

With a 16 inch tooth line this is the longest and deepest of any of my previous backsaw builds.


Stewie;

Time to shape the saw teeth.

1st job is to adhere the 13 ppi template to the top edge of the saw plate followed by masking to tape to each side to protect the plate from being scratched while installed in the saw sharpening vise.

After that its time to notch the ppi spacing with the V point of the file facing directly down. I repeat this step twice to make sure I have formed a good seat for each tooth.

The paper template is then removed and the notched spacing are coated with blue marking dykem. The 1st 2 teeth at the heel end of the plate are being left untouched as this corner edge will cut off at an angle later on.





The file holder is then adjusted to a 10 degree Rake Angle ready to shape the saw teeth.

I add a full stroke of the file to each tooth; reapply the Dykem marker and repeat the same step. This continues up until I start to see the odd tooth getting close to losing its flat spot. From that point these and other teeth that progress to the same stage are missed during the full runs of filing.

In the following photo I have started my final run of shaping the teeth.



When complete I will then reapply the Dykem marker and give the teeth a light jointing with a flat file to insure all the points of teeth are at the same height.


Stewie;

Originally Posted by planemaker

When complete I will then reapply the Dykem marker and give the teeth a light jointing with a flat file to insure all the points of teeth are at the same height.


Stewie;

Then sharpen again?

Originally Posted by code4pay

Then sharpen again?

I am still to complete the last run of the shaping stage. I will then do a light jointing. Then I will sharpen each tooth to point. Last to do will be to apply the set.


Stewie;

Saw teeth sharpened and set.





Now to test the saw and see how it performs.



The kerf is nice and tight, and it follows a straight line well. A properly sharpened saw delivers a much higher pitch with each stoke compared to that which is poorly done. This backsaw delivers the right pitch so its a sharpening job that's been well done.


Stewie;

That looks tremendous Stewie - a grand job indeed!

The brass and steel treatment works very, very well with the burl. It essentially looks as old as anything, but kept in really fine condition.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

That looks tremendous Stewie - a grand job indeed!

The brass and steel treatment works very, very well with the burl. It essentially looks as old as anything, but kept in really fine condition.

Thanks Brett. I am extremely pleased with the look and performance of this saw build. Lots of time and energy spent. Took a gamble using the burl wood. But with the unique saw handle design I came up with it worked out just fine.

Stewie;