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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    Thanks Rob. I notice the rake angle on both saw plates are very relaxed. Look very similar to peg tooth from the photo's.

    Very different look to the rake angles on the 2 taper ground backsaw plates in your D-8 post. The top plate looks way too aggressive even for a rip tooth. And the brass back looks a bit more relaxed. Are you looking at making 1 of the backsaws rip and the other crosscut.

    Stewie;
    The half backs have a rake of approximately 20o. I chose that figure after a good deal of experimenting with the last halfback I did. I compared the number of strokes needed to cut through a test board with my half-back to that of the Wenzloff I used as a model. My saw had a 0.025" plate and the Wenzloff a 0.032" plate. I found that my saw cut through the test board with about 25% fewer strokes than did the Wenzloff. Some of that is likely down to the difference in plate thickness. Both of the backsaws are identical, must be a figment of the camera angle.

    Rob

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  3. #17
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    I realized while making these saws that I needed a saw to cut the slots for the blades so here it is. The blade is heavily taper ground, 0.035" at the tooth line tapering to 0.025" just below the back so that no set is needed. It's 13 ppi filed rip. The handle is Nogal.

    0.035 slot cutting saw.jpg


    On this saw I decided to continue my experiments with bushings. The bushings are 304 stainless sized to be slip fit (0.194") over the un-threaded portion of the shanks of my screws (0.187"). The whole assembly is reamed to fit one screw at a time. This upgrade should take any shearing stress off of the relatively soft brass screw shanks in heavy use. I intend to incorporate this feature in all of my heavier saws.

    bushings on shanks.jpgStainless bushed blade.jpg
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  4. #18
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    Hi Rob. 0.035 at the tooth line equates to a wider than normal kerf for a backsaw. I dont think 13 ppi gullets are going to be deep enough to keep pace with that greater amount of saw dust.

    Stewie;

  5. #19
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    I'm making saws for making saws that have each thickness of steel I use. I have 0.015", 0.025" and now 0.035" slotting saws. These gents saws and the D-8's will all have 0.035" plates. I need to make 0.020" and 0.042" slotting saws too.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  6. #20
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    Thanks Rob. I understand what you doing now. Looking forward to following your progress on the 2 gents half back saws.

    Cheers Stewie;

  7. #21
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    Default Saw for making saws

    Finally got this one pretty much done. Cuts very nice 0.035" slots for inletting saw handles. The test block is hornbeam, very tough and stringy but takes a nice finish.

    A couple of Disston gentlemans half back saws-0-035-jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  8. #22
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    Looks nice Rob. Well done.

    Stewie;

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    Looks nice Rob. Well done.

    Stewie;
    In using it for several saws I've decided that Nogal / Peruvian walnut is too soft for my taste. It will ultimately finish up nicely but getting there is a lot of work. Once I have run through my current stock I'm not going to use it any more.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  10. #24
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    Hi Rob. No shortage of good hardwoods here in Australia.

    Any update on your gentlemans half backs. Great project.

    regards Stewie.

  11. #25
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    Hi Rob. Any further advancement with your work on the half backs.

    Stewie;

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    Hi Rob. Any further advancement with your work on the half backs.

    Stewie;
    Hi Stewie,

    Unfortunately, no. I've been too busy lately to work on the saws. Hopefully I'll free up some time in the next few weeks. I've been looking in periodically and it seems pretty quiet in this sub-forum. I'll be getting to the hardness testing of the files soon.

    Rob
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  13. #27
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    It's been very quite here
    I can hear a pin drop

  14. #28
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    While waiting around between interruptions today I managed to get the stock fitted up to one of these. The toothing is 11 ppi, the handle is Honduran mahogany, the back is 0.125" folded brass and the blade is mounted with stainless bushings around the screw shanks. The 18" blade is taper ground and cryogenically treated.


    The ends of the bushings are visible as silver rings within the saw screw holes.

    Disston No 8 gentlemans stainless bushing detail.jpg


    Here's the blade fitted up to the handle and back.


    disston no 8 handle fitted.jpg

    Here is the beginning of shaping of the handle contours.


    Disston No 8 handle shaping.jpg

    And a full length shot to give an idea of the proportions of the saw.

    Disston No 8 full length begun shaping the handle.jpg

    I've never worked with mahogany before but I really like it. It's somewhat soft but the piece I have has enough structural integrity that I have had very little problem with blow outs on the sharp corners.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  15. #29
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    Hi Rob. I am a little surprised how different your handle is to the original version.

    regards Stewie;

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    Thanks Matt,

    My goal is to average about 4 hours effort per saw. Each type I've made to date takes me about the same with the exception of the gents and pattern makers saws. Metalwork is the most rapidly accomplished part of any saw for me. Final dressing of the saw handles with repetitive cycles of shellac application followed by correction of minor cosmetic niggles and then more shellac is by far the most time consuming part of the work. By the time I get all of the processes down I may put together a book.

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Rob

    Four hours: I have only restored saws to date, but those for whichI have made new handles probably would have taken close to four days! I might have to review my technique: Sand a little faster, file a lot faster, cut at the speed of sound and apply finish at, well, nothing less than warp speed .

    On the serious side thank you for sharing your methods.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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