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Thread: Saw and Driver

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Um, wot's this, Dale? (the post currently adjacent to this one.)

    Klaus, welcome to the Forum - but be warned, we'll be extracting information from you like dentists pulling teeth!

    I like your driver handles - the diameter of the handle isn't all that critical, imo, since you should not need to tighten the nuts to a high torque, just enough to keep the saw firm. My drivers aren't quite as elegant as yours, just a flat blade with a tang. I decided on a 'door knob' style for the handle, partly because I have plenty of scraps of pretty wood, so I can show-off more of it. We are lucky to have some spectacular woods down here, that are not quite as precious as Ebony, so we can afford to be wasteful! I made these for our recent saw-making workshop, the outer two are Rosewood and Olive, which of course are exotic to Australia, while the inner two are 'She-oak' (Allocasaurina torulosa) and Blaackwood (Acacia melanoxylon) respectively.

    Attachment 295033


    Your handles are so precisely fitted, they look as though you don't need bolts! If you have time, could you please show us how you go about fitting your blades & that elliptical spine?

    Cheers,
    Thank you, Ian.

    Those are some beautiful drivers you show. What did you use to finish them? Looks glossy nearly like laquer. I've a weakness for Olive so the right one is my favourite.

    I like the picture with the dentist. Please be aware that I also could be the dentist and you the poor client that has to take care on his teeth

    I will share how I make the mortise for the spine on a saw handle and how the ovally shaped spine will be fitted. Please give me a little time since I want to take some more pics.

    Cheers
    Klaus

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Australia
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    Hi Ian. I am pretty sure Dale is talking about Isaac's saw nut driver he offers for sale on his website.

    Blackburn Tools - Saw nut spanner

  4. #18
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    Hi Ian. I am pretty sure Dale is talking about Isaac's saw nut driver he offers for sale on his website.
    OK, gotcha - I was wondering how he could have failed to see the saw post. Should read more carefully.....
    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by KlausK View Post
    ... What did you use to finish them? Looks glossy nearly like laquer. I've a weakness for Olive so the right one is my favourite...
    Hi Klaus. I used one of our sponsors products called "Shellawax". It's an emulsified shellac/wax mixture that you apply on the lathe. It is very simple to do, and lasts quite well. I also use it on saw handles. In that case, I rub it into the wood and buff it to a shine with a cloth wheel chucked in my lathe. It's a lazy person's way of getting a nice finish quickly - does a fantastic job on ebony!Small Ebony gauge.jpg.

    Olive is certainly a nice wood, but we are blessed with some pretty spectacular native woods to choose from, too....

    Cheers,
    IW

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Hi Klaus. I used one of our sponsors products called "Shellawax". It's an emulsified shellac/wax mixture that you apply on the lathe. It is very simple to do, and lasts quite well. I also use it on saw handles. In that case, I rub it into the wood and buff it to a shine with a cloth wheel chucked in my lathe. It's a lazy person's way of getting a nice finish quickly - does a fantastic job on ebony!Small Ebony gauge.jpg.

    Olive is certainly a nice wood, but we are blessed with some pretty spectacular native woods to choose from, too....

    Cheers,
    That's interesting indeed, Ian.

    A few years ago I got a hint about Shellawax from Derek Cohen. It was the time when Pedder and I found Tru Oil to be a very good finish. I followed this hint and found out, that Shellawax indeed is a very high quality finish but a friction finish that typically needs the higher temperatures the workpiece gets when it will be finished in the lathe. Your marking gauge shows that it doesn't need higher temperatures necessarily to create a very nice gloss. Did you finish the driver handles in the lathe? They look that perfect...

    Cheers
    Klaus

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by KlausK View Post
    A few years ago I got a hint about Shellawax from Derek Cohen. It was the time when Pedder and I found Tru Oil to be a very good finish. I followed this hint and found out, that Shellawax indeed is a very high quality finish but a friction finish that typically needs the higher temperatures the workpiece gets when it will be finished in the lathe. Your marking gauge shows that it doesn't need higher temperatures necessarily to create a very nice gloss. Did you finish the driver handles in the lathe? They look that perfect...
    Klaus, yes, the driver handles were finished on the lathe. This is what Shellawax is designed for, and it does its job extremely well. It takes very little practise to learn how much to apply (not much!) and to move the pad at the right speed to generate the heat required, without cooking your fingers. The quality of the finish depends on the wood, of course, and fine-grained woods like Ebony and Olive respond magnificently.

    When applying Shellawax to small objects like saw handles, you have two options - just rub it on as you would when using a shellac rubber on furniture, & if you are careful, you can achieve a fairly good low-gloss finish. But if you want a more prefect and high-gloss surface, it's necessary to buff it to raise that surface temperature. I run the cloth-wheel at a high speed, which does the job, but you must be careful, or you will remove too much of the polish and cause a bare patch, or even scorch the wood..

    What surprised me most about the stuff is that despite being such an easy way to finish, which leaves a very thin coating, it is very durable. I have tools I finished with Shellawax more than 15 years ago, & they still look good. However, I think that has quite a bit to do with the type of wood, too.

    Cheers,
    IW

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