Thread: New dt Backsaw.

Originally Posted by rob streeper

I'd really like to have some of that wood. Anybody fancy trading planks for folded sawbacks?

What are your thoughts on the handle design Rob.

Stewie;

Beautiful execution - looks as though it will help support the relatively long back and plate with the slightly increasing breadth from index to least finger. I assume this is intended for the right hand given the shadow lines on the left of the saw?
On the buffing, I don't know if you have 3M products available but I've used their Perfect-It products with success on harder species.

Yes. Right handed. The 3M products are okay. But I find going through the sand paper grits up to 1200 is the way to go then use the 3M softer cuts, especially with rubbing back the shellac finish. I will apply double the amount of shellac coats to the end grain to fill in the pores, and get that reflective finish. Whereas the main faces are easier to manage as you can be flatten them over a glass plate usually no higher than 800 grit. From then on its hand sanding. That way the sharpness between to the 2 profiles is better maintained.

Stewie;

Hi all. Here are the photo's of the finished dt saw.

Stewie;

Spine came up pretty magic Stewie!

Hi Stewie,

Very nice, what's it like to use with the extra length? Beautiful job, very stylish!

Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Stewie,

Very nice, what's it like to use with the extra length? Beautiful job, very stylish!

Ray

Thanks Ray. The weight of the saw forward of the handle is surprisingly well balanced. The extra length in the saw plate works in well with a comfortable stroke length. Due to the fine kerf left by the high tpi teeth this saw would suit a wide selection of carcass joints inside 40mm of depth, be it on rip or crosscut grain. It would be up to others to make that judgement but I personally feel this aussie built dt would be a good match in performance to any equivalent made by an outside ozz saw maker.

Stewie;

Stewie,

Really, really nice work. What does it weigh?

Thanks,
Rob

Originally Posted by rob streeper

Stewie,

Really, really nice work. What does it weigh?

Thanks,
Rob

Will have to check that tomorrow Rob and get back to you with a figure. Thanks for the nice comments on the saw. Stewie.

I really like the sword style bevel to the back, milled? Are those initials or accent marks on the right side of the back?

Originally Posted by rob streeper

I really like the sword style bevel to the back, milled? Are those initials or accent marks on the right side of the back?

The bevels are all done by hand filing Rob. Its a makers mark stamped on the back. Nothing too fancy. T. T. C.

Nice work there Stewie another saw of yours for me to aspire to.
I really like the back as you know I can't leave mine alone.
You have done a great job.
Some more pics would be good if you could?



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Stewie,

You are trule an artist with the file. The fineness of your file work calls to mind an illustration from an old Soviet training film demonstrating filing technique - you must either have a great natural talent or you had at some point a really great teacher.
For your back beveling which type of file do you prefer? I assume you removed the plate from the back prior to the beveling work. I like the Nicholson Magicut or the milled tooth Superior type. I have a lead/aluminum type that works reasonably well.
I think I will try your beveling technique on one of the folded backs I make as a method of modulating blade clamping pressure.

Rob

very spiffy