Thread: My favorite saw handle forming tools

Interesting collection.... I have Auriou rasps and wouldn't be without them, also Sawmakers rasp... but I don't use files much. I prefer sanding strips for smoothing.

Where you need to remove a lot of material, I prefer chisels and knives.

The bulk of the shaping of course is done on the bandsaw

Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Interesting collection.... I have Auriou rasps and wouldn't be without them, also Sawmakers rasp... but I don't use files much. I prefer sanding strips for smoothing.

Where you need to remove a lot of material, I prefer chisels and knives.

The bulk of the shaping of course is done on the bandsaw

Ray

I also use templates, posted elsewhere here, a bandsaw and a scrollsaw.

Rob

I've been using these for some time and hadn't thought to post them. These are specialty tools I've developed for shop-use in my saw making. I know that others of you have similar, such as the cat's-paw saw for deepening blade slots but others I've never seen before.

saw making tools p1.jpg

From the left are:

1) Rubber-backed sanding block for tight area's - I know, not much of an innovation but go buy one. Peruvian walnut block and 1.0 mm natural rubber sheet

2) Saw handle/screw bushing insertion and removal tool - probably unique as I've not seen anybody using bushings on their saw screw shanks/handles. 304 stainless tubing, W-1 tool steel shank and Argentine Lignum vitae handle

3) Saw slot depth gauge - used for marking the actual depth of the cut saw slot on the face of the handle. Very useful for fitting panel/hand saw blades. 0.015" 1095 steel blades, nickel silver rivets and Peruvian walnut handle

4) Cat's paw saw for deepening slots in handles. IanW posted a picture of one he uses. 0.015" 1095 steel blade, nickel silver rivets and Argentine Lignum vitae handle

Here's a side shot to show the detail of the sanding block and slot gauge.


saw making tools p2.jpg

Thanks for showing us your collection

I like the cat's paw saw - might have to make one

I would like some nice rifflers - liogier will probably get some of my hard earned cash sometime in the nearish future.

I've used heaps of sandpaper in the couple of handles I've made and cut various thickness dowel to assist in the sanding process

dowel_1015.jpg

I'm toying with the idea of cutting slots in the dowel to hold the paper, maybe

Hi Nick,

If you go with Liogier, which I strongly recommend, get the optional Sapphire treatment. My rasps are cutting very well despite the hard species I use for my saw handles, no rusting either.

Cheers,
Rob

I need to take some photos, working today unfortunately. There have been posts with tools in the past, and I mean to consolidate them... one day. Stewie posted his tools in this thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...highlight=rasp, others have too, from memory. Here is one former maker's toolkit (part I suspect) http://eccentrictoolworks.com/2010/0...ld-school-cnc/

As a beginner, I am focusing on using as few tools as possible - so I can build some skills before moving onto others. This means a scroll saw for cutting to template; an Angle Mag for cutting the blade slot (using Japanese saws mainly, how's that for loyalty); Chisels for the back slot; Rasps for shaping - Liogier (5), Nicholson #50, Gramercy (1); Files for smoothing - various mainly NOS Wiltshire and Swiss, for maintaining crisp transitions (I don't go for the fully rounded look); cloth backed paper (or paper backed with tape) for finishing.

What I plan to do soon is start with chisels, gouges, and wooden spokeshaves for facets (rather than a # 9 Liogier Cabinet Rasp), and to use rifflers for hard to get to spots. I also have some old handcut English rasps that I have sharpened in citric acid that I will try, they are mostly fairly fine, and with the rounding of the tips of the teeth, cut like a fine French rasp. I will also give the milled teeth files a go.

I am undecided whether using Forstner bits to cut the handle curves before using the scroll saw is worth the trouble - or not. What is your practice?

Cheers
Peter

Thanks Rob

You're just trying to get me to spend more money

I've a set of Liogier rasps (including a couple of the curved handle makers) and they are brilliant.
Some are sapphire coated and some aren't because of the scarcity of folding cash at the time.



Peter

I've used the forstners to do the curves - gives a nice crisp curve imho
I haven't used a spokeshave on a handle - might give it a try

Wow. I've got some plane handles to replace and I was hoping to get by with one or two rasps, a file, and a bandsaw... I'm impressed.

Originally Posted by Luke Maddux

Wow. I've got some plane handles to replace and I was hoping to get by with one or two rasps, a file, and a bandsaw... I'm impressed.

Hi Luke,

You can do the job with the simpler tools. I began making saw handles with files and chisels but the high-end rasps make the work easier, faster and the result is better. Zoologists generally agree that tool use is a sign of intelligence.

Cheers,
Rob

Originally Posted by Heavansabove

I need to take some photos, working today unfortunately. There have been posts with tools in the past, and I mean to consolidate them... one day. Stewie posted his tools in this thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...highlight=rasp, others have too, from memory. Here is one former maker's toolkit (part I suspect) http://eccentrictoolworks.com/2010/0...ld-school-cnc/

As a beginner, I am focusing on using as few tools as possible - so I can build some skills before moving onto others. This means a scroll saw for cutting to template; an Angle Mag for cutting the blade slot (using Japanese saws mainly, how's that for loyalty); Chisels for the back slot; Rasps for shaping - Liogier (5), Nicholson #50, Gramercy (1); Files for smoothing - various mainly NOS Wiltshire and Swiss, for maintaining crisp transitions (I don't go for the fully rounded look); cloth backed paper (or paper backed with tape) for finishing.

What I plan to do soon is start with chisels, gouges, and wooden spokeshaves for facets (rather than a # 9 Liogier Cabinet Rasp), and to use rifflers for hard to get to spots. I also have some old handcut English rasps that I have sharpened in citric acid that I will try, they are mostly fairly fine, and with the rounding of the tips of the teeth, cut like a fine French rasp. I will also give the milled teeth files a go.

I am undecided whether using Forstner bits to cut the handle curves before using the scroll saw is worth the trouble - or not. What is your practice?

Cheers
Peter

Hi Peter. I can highly recommend you get yourself a couple of Japanese Feather Files. They leave a very fine surface, and are excellent for accessing those tight areas around the handle, such as the cheek to lambs tongue union. I also use mine to shape the edge profiles on my brass backs. The are come in different lengths, but I have personally found 100mm to 120mm are ideal. Shop around on the internet, as they are generally only available from overseas suppliers.

Stewie;

Originally Posted by rob streeper

Hi Luke,

You can do the job with the simpler tools. I began making saw handles with files and chisels but the high-end rasps make the work easier, faster and the result is better. Zoologists generally agree that tool use is a sign of intelligence.
Cheers,
Rob

... so the more tools you use the more intelligent you are?

Ripper

One of two of the most used tools in my shop.
And I'm sure you all have one or two ?
And remember that's were we all started from .ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429523483.711601.jpg

That opposable thumb thingy is the real key.

Rob
Your good very good