Thread: What happened to all _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Hi Marv. Not sure. It would certainly require a design that's compatible to a quick change of saw plates.

regards Stewie;

Originally Posted by planemaker

Hi Marv. Not sure. It would certainly require a design that's compatible to a quick change of saw plates.

regards Stewie;

Stewie,

I have such a design, a saw that I made using my bottom mortise feature, with the handle screwed only to the back. I used two screws, but it can be accomplished using only one screw.

Here's a picture of what I have now.

This style of handle can be attached to the back with only one screw. The bottom mortise is about 2-1/2" long. A screw in the center and the back snugged up against the bottom of the mortise, the handle would not rock. Another thought, would be, one 10-32 screw down through the top, into a 1/4" thick back would be easier to do and be more effective. I'm suddenly getting into the mood to build another saw... actually two saws/one handle.

Needs an ogee on the back of the plate.

Originally Posted by Ron Bontz

Needs an ogee on the back of the plate.

I purposely didn't put an ogee on it. I was going for simple and smooth, uninterrupted lines.

Keep'n it simple.

Marv

Sharpening a hand saw is definitely not one of Shannon Rogers strengths.

Marv, and other experienced saw sharpening colleagues. Do not view this podcast.

http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com...ing-a-rip-saw/

Stewie;

To be fair 6 years ago when he made the video he introduced it by writing:
" I hope this episode sparks a lot of criticism as I am a real novice to saw sharpening and I would love some input on my technique and how I can improve.

Hi Pac man. You would expect better from a guy who is charging a fee to teach others how to use, and properly maintain their hand tools.

http://www.handtoolschool.net/learn-to-use-hand-tools/

Originally Posted by planemaker

Hi Pac man. You would expect better from a guy who is charging a fee to teach others how to use, and properly maintain their hand tools.

http://www.handtoolschool.net/learn-to-use-hand-tools/

He should title his saw filing video..... "How NOT to file a rip saw". I'll give him an "A" for effort, but an "F" for leading people astray.

When he did his second test cut, the number of strokes he used should have cut that board the full length.

He was using a Disston D8 Thumb hole saw that was designed for a right handed person. He is left handed. That handle is uncomfortable for a right hand person, but much more uncomfortable for a leftie.

It is always very disappointing to see a video made by an amateur wanna-bee saw filer. Beginners will watch it, not knowing how it should be done, but because it's on the internet, they will tend to believe what they are seeing.

I once saw a Youtube video of a guy who was demonstrating how to file a large tooth rip saw with the tooth edge at least a half inch above the jaws of a a wiggly vise. He did the filing holding the file with only one hand and filed all the teeth during a single pass. Screeching was all you heard. It was sad. There will be people who will watch that video and think it's the right way to do it.

Finally!

When I was making some other saws, this week, I did something so idiotic, I still can't believe it. I was fitting a blade to its handle, and somehow managed to round the wrong end! It was only when I was about to mark out the holes for drilling that I saw I'd made myself a pull saw.

I could have jointed off the teeth and recut them, of course, but that seemed like a waste, so instead I rummaged through my box of saw handle material & found a Blackwood carcase-saw handle (a more or less straight copy of an old Disston I liked). I'd used this as one of my demos at the w'shop. It came home half roughed-out, got tossed in a box of handle blanks & spare handle wood, & there it has sat for the last 18 months. So I decided to make the mistake a feature, and rounded both ends of the saw plate. A bit more work on the handle and there you have it:

carcase B-wood 12tpi.jpg

The vital statistics: 12 " x 3" x 0.025" blade, 12 tpi, crosscut. I still have to sharpen it, so can't comment on how well it cuts, yet.

If it hadn't been for my mistake, that half-finished handle may have languished for another year or two, so I suppose every cloud has its silver lining.....

The wood is rather pale for A. melanoxylon, but it has that beautiful lustre & golden highlights that many Acacias have, and a subtle fiddleback figure, though you need to hold it in your hand in good light to see that....

Cheers,

Ian, I quite like the rounded front. Although I think the rounding of the spine should also be on a similar angle.


P.S. Is your mobile number still the same? I sent you a thank you msg not sure if you got it.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Ian, I quite like the rounded front. Although I think the rounding of the spine should also be on a similar angle.
P.S. Is your mobile number still the same? I sent you a thank you msg not sure if you got it.

Hi Dale, my intention was to make two very distinct curves, each being a feature on it's own, but looking at the picture, I see what you mean. They seem to compete, rather than complement each other. I have to finish setting & sharpening it later today, so might just make some 'adjustments'. Thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, my mobile # is the same, & yes, I got your text, thanks, but didn't see it until quite a few days after you sent it. I'm a very sporadic user of mobile phones, they don't work in my shed, so I only use it if I'm away from home (& even then forget to turn it on half the time).....

Cheers,

Great saw Ian
As a close Swedish friend I've mine would say
It's not a fault it's a design feature
Matt

Hi Ian. I quite like the way you have shaped the saw plate and the brass spine. Very classy. If I were to suggest any changes I think the shoulder height on the mortise spine fit is a little too low, and needs to be higher set.

Stewie;

Hi Ian. Bearing in mind there is no right nor wrong approach. The following is a backsaw handle I just recently started working on. As you can see I have a preference to having a minimal step change along the top line of the mortise fit.

The handle wood is Burdekin Plum.

Stewie;