Thread: What happened to all _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

OK, since this saw is one for me, and will be around for a while, I decided to try improving the line of the nose, as you suggested: Carcaase B-wood2.jpg

Looks rather racy, now, but I think it does look better than my original concept.

After setting & sharpening, I gave it a few test runs and am pretty happy with it, it has a nice action. It's far better than the saw it will replace, which was one of my very early forays into sawmaking: Early saw.jpg

When I made this saw, I was still slavishly copying handles I liked the look of, without enough thought as to how the saw would be used. I was only beginning to appreciate the importance of hang angles, and how it related to the most common usage of the saw. What I've got in this saw is a tenon saw alignment; you can see the grip is more vertical than that on the new saw: Hang angles.jpg

So the old saw went into the 'I'll deal with you later' drawer. I'll either convert it to a tenon saw by recutting its teeth to rip configuration, or I'll make a new handle and use the existing one for a tenon saw....

Cheers,

Hi Ian . The handle shape I am using is early English origin. That shape has then undergone some small changes to suit my needs. I have then reworked the shape to give me 2 design options. The primary difference being the cheek size.

Stewie;

Hi Ian,

You may try relaxing the rake angle rather than repositioning or remaking the handle.

Cheers,
Rob

Originally Posted by rob streeper

Hi Ian,

You may try relaxing the rake angle rather than repositioning or remaking the handle.

Cheers,
Rob

Nope, Rob, I don't think that will solve my problem. When I made it, I intended this saw to be used mainly at bench top level, on a bench-hook, for e.g. With the grip at its current angle, it's just not comfortable to use that way. My wrist is twisted up, or I have to bend over more than is comfortable, to get my wrist in a neutral (& comfortable) position, and maintain the tooth line approximately parallel to the bench. The problem goes away if the saw is used a little higher up, as you usually do for a tenon saw. Relaxing the rake might make it easier to push, but it would still be an uncomfortable grip angle, and it would take longer to finish the job....

Actually, I've found I have to change rake-angles a lot on a x-cut to make a noticeable difference to the action, unlike a ripsaw, where a few degrees difference can be quite noticeable, particularly in our bone-hard woods! But that's another discussion.

My unsatisfactory handle isn't a major problem, just a matter of deciding whether I want to make it into a tenon saw, by converting it from x-cut to rip, or, re-use the handle on a tenon saw blade, & make a new handle for the current blade. I'll decide when I next have a saw-making session, which may not happen for some time.

Cheers,

At last, I have finished my second saw from the workshop about 18 months ago. I cheated and had the teeth cut professionally and still have to touch them up and set them. It is 12TPI carcase saw. Blackwood handles were rubbed with EEE and then Trad Wax. They are not up to the standard of others shown here but I am happy with the finished products as they are comfortable to use and cut very well.
DSCF8810.jpgDSCF8812.jpg
Shown here with its little brother that was made on the day. DSCF8813.jpg

Hi Chesand. Don't be too concerned about making comparisons with other saw makers work. The standard of work you have achieved so far, after only your 2nd backsaw build is highly commendable. Well done.

regards Stewie;

Chesand, Where did you get the teeth cut ?

Originally Posted by planemaker

Hi Chesand. Don't be too concerned about making comparisons with other saw makers work. The standard of work you have achieved so far, after only your 2nd backsaw build is highly commendable. Well done.

regards Stewie;

Thanks, Stewie, for your comments.

I am more than happy with my results and after a quick going over with the file and setting yesterday it now cuts even better. Also, I managed to polish out most of the marks in the steel from where it had been sitting for some time so now looks better as well.

Originally Posted by Sam

Chesand, Where did you get the teeth cut ?

Northern Sharpening, 32 Trade Place, North Coburg. (off Newlands Rd) Phone 9350-4262

They would have set the teeth for me but I wanted to do that myself.

Originally Posted by Chesand

Thanks, Stewie, for your comments.

I am more than happy with my results and after a quick going over with the file and setting yesterday it now cuts even better. Also, I managed to polish out most of the marks in the steel from where it had been sitting for some time so now looks better as well.

Hi Chesand. if you are contemplating making another backsaw, and wish to improve its presentation further, can I suggest you consider 2 changes.

The sides of the brass back mortise should be higher, so that there is no more than a 1/16 to 1/8" step down from the commencement of the birdsmouth.

The top line fit of the brass back looks best when it is level is slightly below the top height of this step. (example in the below photo)



Stewie;

Chesand
If I'm not being rude what did it cost to have the teeth cut..?
In one way ,that's quite clever considering the file debacle that's on at that moment.
Ie as you have done ,get the grunt work done if it is reasonable price and they know what there doing ,then do the fine tune your self at bench later .

Well, I suppose placement of the spine is really a matter of taste, rather than function, & tastes vary. Chesand chose a handle design with pretty small cheeks for the smaller saw, especially, which rather limits the depth for the spine slot, if he wanted to avoid having to put the bolt holes through the brass.

I think what might improve function or at least comfort, just a leeetle, would be to take a bit more off the edges of your grip, especially the top of the grip under the horn. This part sits in the web between thumb and forefinger, and I like to bring that down to quite a pronounced ellipse, which allows my thumb to tuck in very comfortably. I leave the middle of the grip more fulsome, because that's the bit that nestles into the ball of your hand and transfers the power to the saw. It's a bit hard to show this in a photo, you need to view the handle in the right light to see it clearly, but you might be able to make out what I'm blabbing about here: Handle2.jpg

I took this shape from a very nice old pre-1920 handle that I liked. It as only after I started making handles myself that I realised why it felt so good in my hand....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Chesand
If I'm not being rude what did it cost to have the teeth cut..?
In one way ,that's quite clever considering the file debacle that's on at that moment.
Ie as you have done ,get the grunt work done if it is reasonable price and they know what there doing ,then do the fine tune your self at bench later .

I agree, it's a sensible way to go for your first few saws. At least that's how I did it, so it must be!
The place where I had mine done charged me 10 bucks apiece, to tooth the blanks. I got 4 or 5 done at once, so maybe there was a bit of a discount, & it was a few years ago, now.

Once you get your confidence up a bit, and IF you can get your hands on some decent files, toothing is really the easiest part of the whole job. I can comfortably tooth a 10 inch, 12 tpi saw in 20 minutes, using a template to lay out the teeth. It only takes about 4 to 6 strokes of a file (depends on the length of the file) to cut that size tooth to depth. It looks like I can get a few more decent NOS files, so maybe they'll tide me over 'til someone starts making real files again.

Cheers,

Hi Ian. I received an order during the week of 12 x (3 Square Needle Files/180 mm x Cut #3) Glardon Vallorbe, Swiss Made (Blue Box with yellow sticker on top). There has been no change in their quality.

Stewie;