Thread: Holden pattern panel Saw.

Looking good. Hope you retire soon, so I can see the end product...

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Matt

Good to see you are making fast progress with this saw. What is the timber? It looks a bit like Silky Oak.

Many of the skewback saws did not enter straight into the curvature from the handle. I think it was all mainly to do with aesthetics, but the rationale was to remove weight. Most of the manufacturers pointed their customers towards the skewback saws but retained the straight back for those who wanted a "traditional" saw.

This is from a 1929 Disston publication:

Extract from 1929.png

and from Simonds

Simonds extract 1.jpg
Simonds extract 2.png

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Matt

Good to see you are making fast progress with this saw. What is the timber? It looks a bit like Silky Oak.

Many of the skewback saws did not enter straight into the curvature from the handle. I think it was all mainly to do with aesthetics, but the rationale was to remove weight. Most of the manufacturers pointed their customers towards the skewback saws but retained the straight back for those who wanted a "traditional" saw.

This is from a 1929 Disston publication:

Extract from 1929.png

and from Simonds

Simonds extract 1.jpg
Simonds extract 2.png

Regards
Paul

Paul,
Yes the handle is Silk oak, I dearly hope Mr Ian approves.

I should have been referring too the saw has either Skewback or straight back, but in my defence I was suffering a major brain fart [emoji849].

Ok was I was trying to point out but my ego probably got in the way [emoji849],Was most of the skew back saws I have had are shaped like seen in Fig 2, an my question is why the flattening near the handle, is it like you say just aesthetics or was there another reasoning?.

Sorry for my late reply I’ve been suffering a bad back for a about 4 weeks now [emoji2959].
(Stupid design putting a Sciatic nerve through a back)



Cheers Matt.

Matt

The skew back as depicted in your Fig. 2 was typical. I believe it coincided with two aspect other than pure aesthetics, which may well have been the primary reason.

The extra depth of the plate just forward of the handle contributed to greater rigidity in the feel of the saw. In many cases it also marked the limit of the taper grinding.

Sometimes that full depth area was flat and in other models it was round and blended in.

Compare both these saws from the Simonds company 1910 catalogue. The Bay State saw looks muscular in comparison the No.4.

Bay State No.25. cat 1910.jpg Simonds No.62. Cat 1910.jpg

At panel saw sizes you have less material with which to be creative.

Regards
Paul

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Cklett

Looking good. Hope you retire soon, so I can see the end product...

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Me too, but it’s a little while off unfortunately [emoji849].

Hi Matt. Not sure what to add to Paul's comments about the blade but I do love your lambs tongue. I have tried to get that shape and have never got it right. Yours looks perfect!!

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Hi Matt. Not sure what to add to Paul's comments about the blade but I do love your lambs tongue. I have tried to get that shape and have never got it right. Yours looks perfect!!

MA,
Thank you, tho I feel I might work on the lamps tongue a little bit more, they are little tricky, an I find I need to adjust them carefully an a little bit at time.
The whole handle is nearly done, but I just need to sharpen it up in a few spots.

Cheers Matt.

The lambs tongue is tricky. I have found that after drawing out the shape it is best to concentrate on the large flat part of the area (the boss?) and form that first. The tongue then automatically takes shape. Also leave the components as thick as possible and only bevel off the edges to as fine as you wish to go at the last moment. This produces a stronger section of timber and, if the timber is removed to a fine edge, it still looks delicate. It is quite important to leave some substantial amount of timber as the handle is always relatively fragile and prone to damage.

As time went on, and we have remonstrated against many times on the Forum, the manufacturers did not trouble to refine the edges of the handles and left the handles "blocky." Ugly!

Regards
Paul

Done it,
An thank you Paul for the mobile metal work bench idea[emoji6].

Took a little fudging with the curve but I think the proportions look ok.

I clean the the grinder cut with a hand file later an make sure it’s nice an consistent extra,

Now back on too the handle, an then the bolts an then finally tooth the blade an sharpen an set the teeth, should be done by my retirement lol.

Note point immmm lovely piece of 1095 spring steel that now needs making into something , maybe a very small saw[emoji849].



Cheers Matt.

Matt, that looks "skewitful". I picked up a handle less backsaw and intend to have another crack at the lamb's tongue. I have some Fijian Mahogany left. Do the collective minds think this will work?

MA

I am not familiar with Fijian Mahogany, but I assume it is a reddish colour. Frankly, almost any hardwood (not Balsa!!) will make a good handle and it just comes down to visual appeal and ease of working. The criteria for we hobbyists is much broader than it was for the commercial makers of yesteryear. They were dealing in plentiful supply, consistency and easy, workable timbers.

Remember Ian's recommendation when chasing figure: Look for small tight grain to suit the small workpiece.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Matt, that looks "skewitful". I picked up a handle less backsaw and intend to have another crack at the lamb's tongue. I have some Fijian Mahogany left. Do the collective minds think this will work?

Thanks Ma,

I have zero experience with Fijian Mahogany so can’t Ofer any advice there ,hopefully some one else has used it.

With the lamp tongue, leave plenty of timber to play with, I’ve got caught out a few times not leaving enough timber.
I also tend too cut the tongue after I done the slot extra.
So if it goes pear shape, I don’t get as grumpy [emoji34].


Cheers Matt.

Thanks Paul and Matt. Last time FM was discussed the consensus seemed to be that it was very similar to the South American Mahoganies, having been introduced to Fiji from there originally. Grain is dense, just maybe a bit boring (or consistent, if one prefers).

MA a quick search on my mate Google brought up this description from a decking supplier:

"Description

Fijian Mahogany is a hardwood variety grown on the island of Fiji. Native to Brazil, it is grown in plantations and is known for its close-knit, straight grain. The dense, tightly woven grain makes it quite strong, and therefore very resistant to splintering, moisture damage, insect infestation and decay.
Relatively soft in texture in relation to strength, it comes in a stunning pallet of colours, from pinkish red hues through to warm orange-tinged browns. The unusual colouring produces stunning results when used in decking, as it works as a real feature.
In recent times, Fijian Mahogany has become quite a popular choice of timber when it comes to decking construction. This rise in popularity is not only because of its stunning appearance, but also because it is an eco-friendly option. Grown in plantation forests, it is considered renewable – therefore making it one of the most environmentally friendly options on the market.
If you are looking for an eco-friendly timber that is both visually appealing and durable, Fijian Mahogany is ideal."
Despite the name it is native to Brazil as you can see from above.

Regards
Paul