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  1. #31
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    304 is the alloy I use. Works great and is only a little more expensive than brass. The mild steel is 1018 and brass is alloy 260.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  2. #32
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    At least you've managed to fit the handle the right way up this time. That's got to be worth a bonus point.

  3. #33
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    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    At least you've managed to fit the handle the right way up this time. That's got to be worth a bonus point.
    Thanks Stewie!!

    I personally was not aware of a governing body anywhere.
    With regard to the design of saw handles.

    Cheers Matt
    (I've just had a red flag flown in my face)

  4. #34
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Matt

    How is the raging bull going with the folding?

    I thought I would remind you of this thread on folding backs which I know you have seen because you were one of the early contributors.

    Saw Making Folded Backs

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  5. #35
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    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    The raging bull is preparing the masses for an onslaught Paul.
    Of biblical proportions.
    Ok, enough big words for me I get my self in trouble.
    Unfortunately in my world Paul shed time is worth more than a thousand of your best camels and back saw thrown in for free.
    So I hang out here and throw ideas around.
    It will happen once Spring hits.

    O and it looks like I've fallen for my own big mouth.


    Quote
    "I like he's doing it not just gasbaging" lol
    But thanks for keeping me in line Paul [emoji3][emoji3]

  6. #36
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    Nov 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    I'm here Matt.

    For the medium weight brass backs I use 0.065" thick stock. For the heavy brass I use 0.125" thick stock. For steel I use 0.085" or 0.095" and for stainless 0.095".

    The brass and steel need to be annealed part way through the folding process, otherwise they break. This breakage is usually immediate but it can be delayed. I've actually heard from a guy who complained that some folded backs he'd bought elsewhere had split after he made them into saws. There has been some scuttlebut floating around the net about not annealing brass during folding but I can say unequivocally that it must be done if you're starting with sheet. I anneal the thick brass twice during forming, medium brass once and steel once. By the point the backs are fully folded they are work hardened again. Stainless hasn't needed annealing and it work hardens to produce an extremely stiff and light weight back, in fact it's my favorite on the basis of functionality. Brass is prettier but also much heavier.
    Rob,

    With regard the annealing you said you do that part way through the folding.
    I would of thought it would be beneficial to anneal it first before starting the bend Possibly more heat during the bending process maybe after half way through the bend.
    But this may also cause more distortion than welcome.
    Straightening a folded piece of metal can be done
    But it's not the easiest compared to just one piece.
    But bear in mind I've never made a folded back.
    But do have a little metal work experience tho.

    Cheers Matt

  7. #37
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Just perpetuating the metaphor in what I hoped was a light hearted manner.

    And you are welcome to all my camels, but the back saws......Ooooh, I'll have to think about that .

    Just to show I too occasionally get a little shed time ( cold shed time at the moment) these are the two back saws I prepared. The front saw has a new handle, which was just bare wood the last time I showed a pic. Trouble is I can't remember where I posted it. That's what you get for digressing. Catches you out every time, but like Sun Tzu says, you have to be aware of your surroundings and make the most of opportunities:

    Disston no.4 by two 006.jpgDisston no.4 by two 005.jpg



    No room for creative improvisation here as it had to be a replica. One day I'll make up my "own" saw. Consequently I am watching your progress with interest.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #38
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    O me and my big mouth.
    Sun Tzu
    Would have me doing the dishes for a thousand wars lol.
    Paul the back saws look most excellent.
    If I'm ever up your way I would love to stop by for a look and chat,
    Cheers Matt

  9. #39
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Matt

    I hope you will get up this way and you will be most welcome. Consider it a staging post.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Melbourne
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    Get together at Pauls


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  11. #41
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    Aug 2010
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    Horsham Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Matt

    I hope you will get up this way and you will be most welcome. Consider it a staging post.

    Regards
    Paul
    Paul is a fine host

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  12. #42
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    Dec 2013
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    San Antonio, Texas, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Rob,

    With regard the annealing you said you do that part way through the folding.
    I would of thought it would be beneficial to anneal it first before starting the bend Possibly more heat during the bending process maybe after half way through the bend.
    But this may also cause more distortion than welcome.
    Straightening a folded piece of metal can be done
    But it's not the easiest compared to just one piece.
    But bear in mind I've never made a folded back.
    But do have a little metal work experience tho.

    Cheers Matt
    I anneal the steel when it's about 3/4 folded shut. The final pressing, where the bending of the fold is extreme, is where the breakage usually occurs. Annealing at the start will make the job easier. I heat steel at about 1200 oF for 30 minutes, not dead soft annealing of course, and press the back to the final shape. The backs are often bowed slightly, perhaps due to internal stresses, when they come out of the final forming step something like 0.1" max. I then straighten the backs using an arbor press and a straight edge.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post

    I personally was not aware of a governing body anywhere.
    With regard to the design of saw handles.
    Hah!

    Monty Python Spanish Inquisition.JPG
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    I would except there guidance of course

  15. #45
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    Careful Matt, sawdomy, i.e. unnatural congress with a wood parting tool, might lead somewhere you'd rather not go.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

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