Thread: Jig for slotted backs.

Stewie ,
Question what kind of slitting arbour are you using ?
Also have you considered mounting the jig to a piece of mdf particle board say 300/300 mm .
On one edge bolted down or use toggle clamps ,then placing some handles on the other side to use to guide it .
I'm saying this as I had a near miss 12 months ago ,and it shook me a bit I still carry the scar .
Matt

Hi Matt. The slitting saw arbor I use accepts different types of ID. I have 2 raised knobs on order that will be fitted to this jig. As I mentioned there needs to be a number of safe guards that need to be in place before you should attempt to use a router table to slot the brass backs. Router speed & maximum OD of the slitting blade are only 2 of these safe guards. I personally feel much safer now doing this task; than I do at any time cutting timber to rough dimension on my bandsaw.There exist a risk with any powered tool; it a matter of identifying what those risks are, then taking the appropriate steps to reduce its potential to cause any injury. IMO

regards Stewie;

Thanks Stewie
I should of been more specific I was after the brand name of the slitting saw arbour
Matt

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Thanks Stewie
I should of been more specific I was after the brand name of the slitting saw arbour
Matt

Hi Matt. I sent you a pm with a link to the arbor.

regards Stewie;

Thanks Stewie

Stewie,

That thing looks hungry.

Regards,
Rob

Originally Posted by rob streeper

Stewie,

That thing looks hungry.

Regards,
Rob

Hi Rob. Whats not shown within the photo's is an outboard fence that I use to control the depth of cut. It usually takes me 5 - 6 passes to reach full depth of slot.

regards Stewie;

Hi Stewie,

A couple of hints that might help, using a climb cut will track straighter, don't use coolant, it warps the blade on deeper cuts. Feed rate is very important, it takes practice on the mill, but I cut full depth in one pass, but very slow feed.

Getting the surfaces of the clamping setup flat and square to the cutter axis is going to be a tricky job, but with practice, and allowing for scrap parts, you will get there.

Ray

Thanks Ray. Appreciate the feedback.

Stewie;

1st run using the new jig assembly. The newly cut slot is for 0.025 saw plate gauge. You will note outboard fence in place that controls the depth of cut. 3 full passes were taken to reach the required depth of slot.



The new slot is parallel in both axis. No apparent heat build up or vibration was observed during the test.



I did notice within this 2nd photo a false impression that the front 1 1/2" looks slightly wider than the rest of the slot . That is not the actual case. That slot is perfect in width and depth along the brass backs full length.

Note: I have 2 round handles (currently on order) that will be fitted to the top of the jig when they arrive.

regards Stewie;