Thread: saw set marking saw plate

I think it may be coming from your anvil, in conjunction with the hammer being angled wrong to my reasoning. The tip of the hammer should be the first to strike. The air gap in yours looks like the bottom of the hammer is closing before you get to the tip. I think I'm right with out going and getting my set to compare.
Different saw set but on the lower image you can see what I am meaning about the angle of the tip of the hammer.

D, I think it's the clamp contacting unevenly, not the hammer.
I'm assuming that in the process of rotating into parallel with the plate, it might drag the plate down a little or - I think probably this one - is scratching the plate as it realigns(???).
Cheers,
Paul

Originally Posted by pmcgee

D, I think it's the clamp contacting unevenly, not the hammer.
I'm assuming that in the process of rotating into parallel with the plate, it might drag the plate down a little or - I think probably this one - is scratching the plate as it realigns(???).
Cheers,
Paul

I think Paul may be spot on I never thought of it "pulling" the plate

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Joel,

Yes the Eclipse no 77 has been quite varied over the years in terms of hammer size and anvil as wells the quality of the bevel on the anvil. If the somax is blue it should be fine for your saw. The gold one has a thicker hammer.


Looks pretty good to me, just make sure none of the fillings from cutting the teeth get embedded into the jaws.


Could we get you to take one more photo with the sawplate in the saw set so we can see where the marks line up with the saw set?

If you have any offcuts of the saw plate it would also be interesting to know which side of the set is creating the marks. Obviously as you turn the plate over to set every second tooth the opposite way your now marking both side of the plate.

I'll take another pic tomorrow Dale, but i'm pretty sure the marks are from the clamp
thanks for the replies

I was just using the 77 style saw set last night. Great neck version, as I couldn't locate the real E 77. I was not at my shop. So I didn't have my usual air gun or brush with me to blow off the filings from jointing. Guess what I saw on the back side of the plate, anvil side. ? Little swirl like marks. When you compress the saw set your hand as well as the saw set moves slightly. The marks were from the lower part of the anvil. Either way, the scotch brite pads would take care of it. A deburring wheel may be just a little extreme for those superficial scratches. But one can use what they have available. Best wishes.

Thanks Ron, Seems like Joel you either have some pitting, burrs or rust on your anvil or you still had some fillings on the saw plate causing your woes.

If you wanted to use masking tape to protect from marks I don't think it would affect the setting of the saw and if it did it would still be even an regular, or as Ron said it is easy to clean up with a bit of scotchbrite, maybe steelwool or fine emery would do the same.

I protect the bade with one layer of Tesafilm - German film tape. When I stone the saw after setting, I get a set of exact 2 layer tesafilm. Perfect for dovetail - carcass saws. 4 layers for the big tenon saws.

Cheers
Pedder

I'll have to see if I can get that in the US. I have never seen it. Thanks, Pedder.

Sorry I havn't got around to posting a pic yet, the marks do coincide with the lower part of the clamp, I'll clean up the set a tad more, the Tesa film is why I wondered whether ordinary "sticky/selo" tape might be the go, even if the adhesive does come of onto the saw plate I'd think that a wipe with metho would remove it, I can only try and see.