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  1. #16
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    You dont need a metal lathe but it would be better. I made some on the wood lathe. You go on the slowest setting and use a file. I filed the thread off some 3/4 bolt to make the heads and used brass allthread for the shaft. The shaft is soldered into the head. It was a bit rough but it works. When you sand the saw handle the brass comes up great.
    Regards
    John

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  3. #17
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    I thought I had posted on making saw bolts & nuts, but can't find anything, so here is how I usd to make them with my wood lathe.

    1. Chuck a short length of bras rod in a jacobs chuck & drill for tapping:

    Drilling.jpg

    Tap for whatever brass bolt size you are using, and slot one end:

    cutting slot.jpg

    Cut off nut - you can clean up the rough edge by screwing the nut onto a bit of thread & facing it off with a file ot turning tool:

    cutting nut.jpg

    Turn off a short collar, either with a file or a tool like this (use the slowest speed you can!):

    turning collar.jpg

    Square up the collar using a file with a safe edge, & silver-solder in a length of bolt:

    Finished bolt.jpg

    Clean it up and fit to your saw - :

    Bolts fitted.jpg

    The only problem with these was that the thread tends to catch on the edge of the hole in the saw plate, which can be annoying, but not fatal. They look perfectly good on the outside...

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #18
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    Thumbs up Wow!

    Ian,

    That is spectacular! Those nuts turned (no pun intended) out so well!
    And it is something else I can do once I finish assembling my lathe

    Thanks!

    Craig

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    The only problem with these was that the thread tends to catch on the edge of the hole in the saw plate, which can be annoying, but not fatal. They look perfectly good on the outside...

    Cheers,
    SQA ... Stupid Question Alert ...

    Ian ... why would these threads catch any more than original bolts? They look great to me.

    I'm sure we've seen it previously, but could you add a pic of the reverse side too ... pretty please?

    Thanks,
    Paul

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    SQA ... Stupid Question Alert ...

    Ian ... why would these threads catch any more than original bolts? They look great to me.
    More my inadequate explanation, perhaps, Paul. Of course any threads can catch on the edges of the thin plate, but by having a clear section in the centre of the bolt, you eliminate this problem when the bolt has passed the threaded section. This helps when you are juggling things a bit to get the nut started. I like to keep everything pretty snug, & if a thread is catching at a critical point, it can be awkward. As I said, it's a minor irritation, not a game-stopper, but one I can easily avoid, now. You can get the same effect with fabricated bolts by using brass rod & threading each end, but it's hard to get the smaller sizes of round bar, round here...

    My current saw bolts, turned from solid bar, look like this:

    saw bolts.jpg A bit fancier & everything consistent, thanks to the metal lathe and screw-fed cutting tools!

    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    SQA I'm sure we've seen it previously, but could you add a pic of the reverse side too ... pretty please? l
    Don't think you would have, actually - I seldom take pics of the 'reverse' side of saws, for some reason. Fortunately, I stll have the saw in the picture above - one of my early attempts that turned out well, so I keep it out of sentimentality. Here is the nut side:

    Rev1.jpg

    It's not too clear in the pic, but the nuts are slightly domed, which is how I started making them. I have since switched to making them square, and fitting the bolts & nuts to the saw so that everything ends up flush, like this:

    Rev2.jpg


    Craig, excuse the pedantry, but you seem to be applying the term 'split nuts' to the combination of screw (or bolt) and the nut (along with quite a few others, I've noticed). It's the nut that is actually the 'split' part. In fact, if we were to be truly pedantic, we should call it a 'semi-split' nut - after all, a split nut would not be a lot of use, would it? .....

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #21
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    Jan 2009
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    Default Sources of Split Nuts For Handsaws

    I see you're adding a little jazz to your ersatz medallion now, Ian. Now you just need to cast your family crest into them and and 'optimus' or, 'warranted bonza'.



    Put in a few hundred k's on my dovetailer today... Definitely bonza.
    ...I'll just make the other bits smaller.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berlin View Post
    I see you're adding a little jazz to your ersatz medallion now, Ian.....

    Matt, I had intended to turn a ring on the face to form an inner disc, like a 'real' medallion, but decided that was too fussy altogether, so opted for that little fillet around the edge instead. My original idea of making one bolt head larger, a la medallion of commercial saws, was to have somewhere for the proud owner (which was only intended to be me, when I began!) to engrave initials & a date, to declare ownership. In fact, I don't routinely make medallion bolts anymore unless someone asks for one. When turning from solid bar, it wastes too much good brass!

    Someone beat you to naming rights for my saws - they suggested "Wilkut", which I thought rather good. "Warranted bonza", under a kangaroo or a platypus with an arch of gum leaves would make a ripper blade etch, though. If I had your skills, I could make the appropriate screens......


    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #23
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    Default Sources of Split Nuts For Handsaws

    Wilkut! Perfect. I'd love to help work out an etch. I can see it now, from the heel of the blade right to the tip, with a million curlicues, a few hundred well chosen words and maybe a sort of cesar-esqe profile portrait. I'll knock one up.

    But seriously, happy to do it anytime.

    Cheers
    Matt
    ...I'll just make the other bits smaller.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berlin View Post
    ....... I can see it now, from the heel of the blade right to the tip, with a million curlicues, a few hundred well chosen words and maybe a sort of cesar-esqe profile portrait........
    Haud, gratias ago vos! Definitely not the Caesaresque profile - there may be a Brutus or two lurking out there!

    Thanks for the kind offer, Matt, but I think I'll do without etches for the time being - I'll just concentrate my efforts on making handles that fit & teeth that cut.

    I admit I have thought about etches from time to time, & it would make the saws look very professional, no doubt, but a bit too wanky & a bit too much trouble at this stage......
    Cheers,
    IW

  11. #25
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    Default Sources of Split Nuts For Handsaws

    'Handles that fit and teeth that cut.'

    We have your tag line. (i know you don't want anything wanky but we might be able to upsell a bit here...)

    Wilkut

    We have your brand.

    The saw's practically etching itself!
    ...I'll just make the other bits smaller.

  12. #26
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    How about a stamp? ...






  13. #27
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    Mar 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morbius View Post
    Good evening all!

    I've been trying to source some brass split nuts to refurbish/restore some handsaws (yet another addition to my ever-growing list of projects). A number of places I've looked that had previously been recommended no longer seem to sell them...

    Blackburn Tools do not yet produce them....

    Thanks,

    Craig
    I'm a little late to this thread, but I am now making them to sell. It will be a few weeks before they show up on my website, but if you need them before then, you can send me a message through this forum.


    Here are some of the details on the nuts and bolts:

    Length of the bolt is 1.025" long, so they will fit all but the very thickest of handles. Longer bolts can be made by special request.

    Diameter of the bolt heads and nuts are 7/16". I will make 1/2" and 9/16" ones in the next batch, and probably offer medallion sized bolts as well.

    The bolt uses a toothed lock washer to prevent it from spinning.

    The split nut is 5/16" long, giving enough thread engagement to virtually guarantee that it will never strip, no matter how hard it is tightened.

    The extended portion of the nut is 1/4" diameter.

    Both the bolt head and nut have tapered sides, making them easy to install (and remove without splintering the edge of the hole). This is great when you are test fitting them.

    The slot in the nut is 0.032" wide.

    Threads are 8-32.

    The heads of the bolts are 1/8" thick. The "heads" on the nuts are slightly thicker to compensate for the thickness of the washer used under the bolt head. This allows you to drill the holes for the bolt and nut to the same depth, and have them both end up flush with the wood when they are installed.

    Available in either brass (the left group in the picture) or bronze (the right group in the picture). I have a half dozen of the brass ones, but will have the material to make more at the end of this week. I have plenty of the bronze ones already made.

    The bolts and nuts are straight from the lathe, so you will probably want to sand the surfaces. You can do this after they are installed in the handle or before. The bolt and nut in the left foreground of each group were sanded on 220 grit for about 5-10 seconds, which removed all of the lathe tool marks.

    Price is $6.50 USD for a set (one bolt, one nut, and one washer). Shipping to Australia is $10 USD for up to a dozen sets (a set is one nut, one bolt, and one washer). Shipping for more than that number is $15 USD. If someone wants to coordinate a group buy, I can ship a bulk order to them to save on shipping costs.

    split-nuts.jpg


    I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have.

    Isaac
    Blackburn Tools

  14. #28
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    Talking Thanks!!!!

    Isaac,

    Thanks for posting that info. I'll take brass 6 sets, if you accept PayPal. Happy to wait in line, rather than hog all of the ones you have already.

    Craig

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isaac S View Post
    I'm a little late to this thread, but I am now making them to sell. It will be a few weeks before they show up on my website, but if you need them before then, you can send me a message through this forum.
    ...
    Isaac
    Blackburn Tools
    What is the post diameter please? (Is it up there? Am I not reading properly?)

    I'm trying to relate them to this S&J for example ... but my brain is working about normal ... ie not.
    It has 3.7mm post and 13.2mm and 14.2mm bolt heads.

    The last one I think = 9/16" ... but the others don't seem to fit an imperial measurement.

    Thanks,
    Paul

    Hmmm ... I measured the exposed post. The two above ... a bit mushroomed maybe ... I put at 4.2mm.

    split nuts 002.jpg split nuts 003.jpg

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    What is the post diameter please? (Is it up there? Am I not reading properly?)
    You may be reading it properly, Paul, just not letting the message get through.

    Da man says they are "8-32" which I take to mean 8 gauge, 32 tpi (our cousins over the water like these funny designations that are mysterious to the uninitiated). An 8 gauge machine screw is 0.164 inches, which in real units is 4.1656 milimetres.......

    Very close to the ones you measured on your saw!

    Cheers,
    IW

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