Thread: Sources of Split Nuts For Handsaws

That could be interesting.
Thought I should say something I've been sitting on the saw line on this one


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Originally Posted by planemaker

Rob. Why not just go down the track of making laminating handles with inset bronze bushes to seat the saw bolts. That would seem to resolve all the concerns you have raised.

Stewie;

Mark at Bad Axe is already doing laminates. Bad Axe Tool Works - American Kid
I personally don't care for the high contrast 50's look of the majority of laminates. plan59 :: retro 1940s 1950s decor & furniture :: malarkey plywood, 1955 picture on VisualizeUs

I want good looking natural wood that is robust and stable.

Originally Posted by rob streeper

Ray,

I'll post a photo of a mesquite/mistletoe burl in situ. The Tejano's here refer to it as 'tree killer'. Mistletoe infects both mesquite and live-oak in this area.
Your mention of she-oak inspired be to look around and I found a domestic supplier of both she-oak and Australian blackwood, Hearne Hardwoods in Pennsylvania. I'll probably order some after I work out the kinks with mesquite infusion.
The various sources discussing infusion list heating, pressure treatment and vacuum imbibing as methods for saturating woods with acrylics. The Minwax product is in acetone so it should penetrate very well. The acetone will limit me on the vacuum I can draw and heat that can be applied but I think with several cycles I can get the product in. The critical point of acetone is 235 C at 48 bar which is beyond the capability of any chamber I have at this point so supercritical fluid treatment is out.
After infusing I'll try to lightly back-extract the blank with solvent to reduce the polymer content of the outer layer of wood to facilitate finish penetration. Mesquite polishes up like glass using several coats of BLO and the figure of the burls can be really nice.

Rob

Mesquite burls in in situ. If you look closely at the first photo you can see the mistletoe growing from the branches in the background.

mesquite burl 2.jpgmesquite burl 1.jpg

For the budget conscious with anti rotation. From the blog "Plane Shavings"

DSC01900.JPGDSC01901.JPGDSC01903.JPGDSC01908.JPG

Originally Posted by DSEL74

For the budget conscious with anti rotation. From the blog "Plane Shavings"

DSC01900.JPGDSC01901.JPGDSC01903.JPGDSC01908.JPG

Looks very nice to me, distinctive too. Likely that the full size square nuts don't have as much tendency to cause splitting.

Originally Posted by rob streeper

Ian,

In the inimitable words of Kant, I think therefore I am.

This very useful discussion has inspired me to go in a new direction - use bushings. The model RC hobbyists here apparently use flanged brass bushings for their purposes. Associated Bushing 3 16 x 5 16 Flanged ASC6863 | eBay

Drilling a little deeper and wider into the screw mounting position would allow me to secure 4 of these in place with epoxy. Since they are porous they are never coming out. Thus increasing the wood to metal bearing surface, stabilizing the local wood with a combination of epoxy and hardener and providing a very tight screw shank to bushing to wood fit that will be much less subject to wear and swelling since the screw head and nut face will bear on the flanges. I'll give it a try and post the results.

Best,
Rob

Oops, Descartes, not Kant. I was after 'To be is to do'.

Lol


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I prefer
I think so there for I make


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Ok this is my take on the great saw bolt debate.
I made these earlier today ,they are ruff but in my defense I've been using my metal lathe for about 5 hours so far.
The photos are pretty self explainer try .
But the details are thread is M6,
Bolt head size is 13mm,
With a 45 degree bevel ,
Personally next time I think ,I will go with just flat head off about 3mm .
The bushing is 8mm ,
The bolt heads have also be drilled with 2 1.5mm holes placed 9mm.
Apart of the centre axis ,
These are designed to accommodate a pair of straight cir clip pliers .
Over all I'm happy with them ,
But they did stretch my skill
My reason for not going with the 45 bevel next time is that when ,tightening them up they pull down and also put to much sideways pressure in the counter sink.
Were as a flat will just pull together,
(Hope that all makes sence)
I may also think about making the bush just a fraction over size next time .
And freeze it in the freezer for a few hours before dropping it in to place letting it come back to room ,temperature and locking in place
Similar to old fashion vale guides on a cylinder head.
Now these are just my ramblings
So take them just has that
MattImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076416.838774.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076441.099490.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076485.147244.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076513.739267.jpg





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Originally Posted by Simplicity

Ok this is my take on the great saw bolt debate.
I made these earlier today ,they are ruff but in my defense I've been using my metal lathe for about 5 hours so far.
The photos are pretty self explainer try .
But the details are thread is M6,
Bolt head size is 13mm,
With a 45 degree bevel ,
Personally next time I think ,I will go with just flat head off about 3mm .
The bushing is 8mm ,
The bolt heads have also be drilled with 2 1.5mm holes placed 9mm.
Apart of the centre axis ,
These are designed to accommodate a pair of straight cir clip pliers .
Over all I'm happy with them ,
But they did stretch my skill
My reason for not going with the 45 bevel next time is that when ,tightening them up they pull down and also put to much sideways pressure in the counter sink.
Were as a flat will just pull together,
(Hope that all makes sence)
I may also think about making the bush just a fraction over size next time .
And freeze it in the freezer for a few hours before dropping it in to place letting it come back to room ,temperature and locking in place
Similar to old fashion vale guides on a cylinder head.
Now these are just my ramblings
So take them just has that
MattImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076416.838774.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076441.099490.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076485.147244.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076513.739267.jpg





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I really like your design. I agree with your thought on going for a flat face on the wood side. The 45 may split the stock in use and certainly will if overtightened. The large diameter bushings will carry most of the force if they fit the hole in the plate tightly. Punching that size hole in thicker saw plates will take a heavier punch though, what did you use?

Originally Posted by Simplicity;1734094[ATTACH

299868[/ATTACH]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389076513.739267.jpg

I have no problem with the principle of the concept. I quite like the two holes for tightening them up and think they could look more finished than the split nut. I agree that the backs should be flat.

Two questions for you though. What is the off centre hole for? and why make these three part when they could be two part bolt and nut?

Hi Rob
If u look closely at the pic with the handle you can see that yes it will split it.with a 45 deg bevel
Because it has!
live and learn
With regards to punching the saw plate holes at present I've just being using ordinary twist drill bits starting with a 2mm and working up to 8mm
But it's hard going and a big pain
So I'm up for any suggestions there I have thought about buying a metal hole punch
Or maybe making a tool steal cutter ?
Matt


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This says steel to 60 thou ... HVAC Sheet Metal Kit Hand Hole 7 Punch Die Tool Set New in Case Kit | eBay

I saw something with a handscrew (punch) but can't find it now ...

also ... Guide to Making Holes in Sheet Metal - How to Work With Sheet Metal - Popular Mechanics

Flat spring steel, source, and how to drill it?

Paul

Surely someone has made something like this that isn't for copper, gold, etc ... but I can't see it ...
131020170, No. 17 Bench Punch, Pexto Roper Whitney #17 Punch

SMH 1972
The Sydney Morning Herald - Google News Archive Search

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Hi Rob
If u look closely at the pic with the handle you can see that yes it will split it.with a 45 deg bevel
Because it has!
live and learn
With regards to punching the saw plate holes at present I've just being using ordinary twist drill bits starting with a 2mm and working up to 8mm
But it's hard going and a big pain
So I'm up for any suggestions there I have thought about buying a metal hole punch
Or maybe making a tool steal cutter ?
Matt


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Matt. I use a metal cutting fluid when drilling into saw plate steel. The friction generated between the drill tip & saw plate creates more heat build up than the surrounding air can cool. The cutting fluid acts as an additional coolant as well as a lubricant between the 2 surfaces. The metal cutting fluid I use is has the brand name ROCOL RTD. Reaming Tapping Drilling | RTD Liquid
2, 5, then the 8mm size should work fine with the cutting fluid. You may need to give the drill bits a resharpen if you have already burnt the tips from previous use.

Stewie;