Thread: Sources of Split Nuts For Handsaws

Hi Stewie,
Sorry I didn't mention was using heaps of cutting fluid .

Drill bits used were 2.5/4/6.5/8.
All new it does the job I suppose .I'm to use to just mild steel with those loverly ribbons ,
Tho I just had a thought I might try spot weld drill bits I have a few some were(being an ex panel beater ).
Will see how they go.




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Ok just found a spot weld cutter
6mm.
Gave it a go on some saw plate and it went ok lots of cutting fluid as standard a little bluing and smoke.
But the hole was nice and clean
Medium speed on the drill press
But the cutter was old and how many spot welds it has done no idea
But I was pleasantly surprised
A new bit would be a lot better ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389175988.297200.jpg


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I use the black oxide drill bits with the cutting fluid with very good results.

Black oxide is an inexpensive black coating. A black oxide coating provides heat resistance and lubricity, as well as corrosion resistance. Coating increases the life of high-speed steel bits.

Just Goolge them they look like they could be a go to
Will have to find some I think
Thanks
Stewie


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Originally Posted by Simplicity

Hi Rob
If u look closely at the pic with the handle you can see that yes it will split it.with a 45 deg bevel
Because it has!
live and learn
With regards to punching the saw plate holes at present I've just being using ordinary twist drill bits starting with a 2mm and working up to 8mm
But it's hard going and a big pain
So I'm up for any suggestions there I have thought about buying a metal hole punch
Or maybe making a tool steal cutter ?
Matt


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Hi Matt,

I use this for punching plates:

Whitney Jensen No 5.jpg

It is a Whitney Jensen No. 5 Junior sheet metal punch. I think these are still made. I have never tried the cheaper knock off's. This works great with any size of punch/die on plates 0.020" and thinner. It makes about 1 ton pressure. I am on the lookout for a heavier punch so I can do larger holes in 0.032" plates. On thicker steel I typically start with a 1/8" or 5/32" hole and then ream to size with these tapered reamers:

Tapered reamers.jpg

This method allows me to get pretty much any size hole I need.

I have tried drilling and grinding saw steel and found it to be a slow, painful and inaccurate process.

Rob

Hi Rob
Do the reams work out ok in the saw plate
I've been thinking about getting a set


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Originally Posted by rob streeper

No. 5 Junior sheet metal punch.

How far can it reach into the plate, please?

Regarding coolant, I think I've seen IanW say he got worse results drilling with coolant.

Cheers,
Paul

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Hi Rob
Do the reams work out ok in the saw plate
I've been thinking about getting a set


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They work really well. If you get a set remember to never turn them backward as doing so could damage the cutting edge. So far I am extremely happy with the results. The reamers allow for the careful adjustment of the hole sizes in both the stock and the plate such that they fit the screw shanks very nicely unlike the misshapen holes that are so easily made by a standard twist drill. I'm waiting on the bearings I mentioned earlier - then I will bore all pieces to be perfectly aligned with the reamers. I'll post the results.

Originally Posted by pmcgee

How far can it reach into the plate, please?

Regarding coolant, I think I've seen IanW say he got worse results drilling with coolant.

Cheers,
Paul

Ray got worse results slitting the backs with coolant.

Originally Posted by pmcgee

How far can it reach into the plate, please?

Regarding coolant, I think I've seen IanW say he got worse results drilling with coolant.

Cheers,
Paul

Hi Paul, nice to meet you.

I don't remember exactly but I believe the hole diameter part of the punch shank is 4 to 6 mm long for most of the sizes in the kit. I will measure mine and post a picture tomorrow. I have heard over the years that the Whitney Jensen and Roper Whitney punches and dies are the very best. People say that they last for many years without needing replacement. Some punches have apparently been passed down between generations of users. That's why I spent more to get the one I have. Properly adjusted it can punch 0.025" spring steel. I am looking for a bigger one because I want to punch much thicker stuff, up to 1/4". In setting it up you screw the die (bottom) in only to the point that the handle is about 2.0 to 1.5 inches from being fully closed with a piece of the steel you are working under the punch. If you screw it in too far the press does not have enough leverage to pierce the steel and then you need to put pipes on the handles.

Rob

Hi Rob,

I think you should be looking for a fly press, for those sort of thicknesses.

The tonnage required to punch 1/4 would be way more than you could apply with a hand punch.

A 1/4" hole in 1/4" mild steel would require 6 tons. ( you shouldn't punch a hole smaller than the material thickness)

For spring steel saw plate, the shear strength is 4 times that of mild steel, and for example a 1/4" hole in 30 thou plate it requires almost 3 tons.

A fly press is a very usefull thing to have for punching saw teeth as well.

Ray

Originally Posted by pmcgee

How far can it reach into the plate, please?

Regarding coolant, I think I've seen IanW say he got worse results drilling with coolant.

Cheers,
Paul

The hole-diameter section of the punches are right at 7mm long. This is the 3/16" punch.
punch photo.jpg

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Rob,

I think you should be looking for a fly press, for those sort of thicknesses.

The tonnage required to punch 1/4 would be way more than you could apply with a hand punch.

A 1/4" hole in 1/4" mild steel would require 6 tons. ( you shouldn't punch a hole smaller than the material thickness)

For spring steel saw plate, the shear strength is 4 times that of mild steel, and for example a 1/4" hole in 30 thou plate it requires almost 3 tons.

A fly press is a very usefull thing to have for punching saw teeth as well.

Ray

Hi Ray,

I agree and I'd love to have one but at this point I have no place to put it. I am looking at hand punches in the 3 to 5 ton range. Roper-Whitney made some that can do the job.

Cheers,
Rob

Originally Posted by pmcgee

.....Regarding coolant, I think I've seen IanW say he got worse results drilling with coolant....

I have said that, Paul, but I was talking about specific drills viz., 'builders' drills (the ones with pictures on the packet showing them punching through wood, masonry & metal). I'm not sure about other carbide-tipped drills, though I bought a cheapie from McJings which works fine dry(after I sharpened it!). For HSS drills, cutting fluid would be essential, & even then you are going to chew them up rapidly - one or two clean holes between sharpenings is as much as you can expect.

For the sort of (very) small-volume production I do, drilling works well for me - it's convenient, & accurate (provided I'm careful!).

Cheers,