Thread: Another tenon saw complete.

Originally Posted by IanW

Well, I don't totally condone this system for a couple of reasons. Certainly, it's easier to make a simple round bolt, but having some sort of shank-locking provision is highly desirable, imo. For sure, you can tighten the nuts up easily when they are all nice & new, but once they corrode a little (inevitable over time, no matter how fussy you are!) it will be a very different story. So if I were using these bolts, I certainly wouldn't leave the lock washer out. It complicates flush-mounting, but doesn't make it impossible. I much prefer the share-shank bolts, which are a little more trouble to make, but you can't lose the square on the shank as easily as a washer.

Saw bolts seem to need tightening a few times on a new saw. Wood always wriggles a bit, and especially if you live in a climate with extremes (as ours seems to be, these last few years!). A couple of weeks ago, I had loose handles on just about every tool in my cupboard, saws, planes, the lot - even the very tightly-fitted hoops on some of my chisels were falling off!

I also find it easier to slip the handle off small saws for sharpening - being able to do that quickly & cleanly is a big plus.

As I've just said to Dale, I prefer to get my bolt-holes spot-on, but if you do need to tweak them, chainsaw files are the go, & handle saw-plate easily. They come in a bewildering range of sizes, starting from 1/8th inch (probably smaller, tho I haven't seen any smaller than that) and go up in 1/32nds.



Stewie, I usually flush-mount, too, but if I use a 'medallion' head, I think it looks better if set proud. Both ways can look quite effective, I think, but it's matter of personal taste.

I bore the countersinks to rough size initially, and tweak them on final assembly with a Forstner bit in my battery drill - a sharp Forstner cuts cleanly & it's quite easy to shave of a few thou at a time to get a perfect fit. Or, if you're nervous, leave the head/nut a fraction proud and sand it flush - 180 grit paper on a block soon whips them into shape (filing is even quicker if you trust yourself with a file - one slip & your nice new handle may have a very nasty scar!).

As always, there are lots of ways to get the covering off the cat, so it's a matter of what gear you've got & how you like to do it........

Cheers,

Hi Ian. Always good value to get your views on the subject. I just posted some dia. measurements of the saw screws and counterbore I am using.

Stewie;

Hi Stewie, Awesome saw and beautiful handles, On the race cars we use a serrated washer that is also cone shaped so it acts as a spring washer/locking washer all in one they are Schnorr washers, might be of use under the heads of your saw bolts to stop them loosening off!!!,
Cheers, Richie

Originally Posted by Richie Rich

Hi Stewie, Awesome saw and beautiful handles, On the race cars we use a serrated washer that is also cone shaped so it acts as a spring washer/locking washer all in one they are Schnorr washers, might be of use under the heads of your saw bolts to stop them loosening off!!!,
Cheers, Richie

Thanks Richie. I checked them out just then on the bay. Very interesting.

Stewie;

Richie, the purpose of the washer in this application is not to prevent the nut loosening, but to prevent the bolt from turning during tightening/loosening of the nut (it's placed under the head of the bolt, not the nut). Since they're not holding a screaming, vibrating monster together, coming loose in use isn't the issue here. The bolts often do loosen over time, because the fibres of the wood crush a little under the expansion caused by periods of high humidity, or the saws may be taken to a drier environment where the EMC is much lower. It may be some time before tightening is necessary, or you need to dismantle the saw for some reason, by which time the threads may have gummed up a bit, & it will be much more difficult to move the nut if the washer isn't biting into the head & wood. That's why I suggest to not leave them out, even though it's easy to tighten them down without the washer when the threads are new & running freely.

However, I think the washer idea is not a totally satisfactory solution, because if the bolt is loose, the washer isn't going to bite as well, & may not hold against the extra force required to move a reluctant nut. If the nut isn't too frozen, you will probably be able to press hard on the bolt head with your thumb to help the washer get a better purchase, but it could get a bit awkward. Note that split nuts like these are open to the atmosphere and whatever gets spilt on them, so they are more prone to oxidising or becoming gummed-up. (Perhaps that's one reason why manufacturers switched to the closed type?)

In any case, it isn't going to be an issue at the coming workshop,'cos we have enough of these to go round, now:
bolts for w_shop.jpg


Cheers,

Ian and i were discussing work holding while drilling the bolt holes in the tote. Wondering what you do to hold yours?? Drill Vise, Clamps, hand held??

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Ian and i were discussing work holding while drilling the bolt holes in the tote. Wondering what you do to hold yours?? Drill Vise, Clamps, hand held??

Hi Dale. Using a counterbore with the fitted pilot guide I feel quite comfortable holding the work piece by hand. When I was relying on forstner bit I would lock the workpiece down using the type of clamp shown in the photo's where I am adding the chamfer to the saw bolts on the pedestal drill.

Stewie;

Sorry for the distraction, but what wood is that 45-degree scrap block?

Originally Posted by TobyC

Oops, sorry Stewie, but I like the flush one, hands down.

I like my old saws ... I believe they were sanded down flush.

... But I love that you guys are continuing the process of making saws today.

Cheers,
Paul

Looks like Douglas Fir (Oregon) to me.

Originally Posted by hiroller

Looks like Douglas Fir (Oregon) to me.

Spot on.

Making good progress on my new backsaw with the Jarrah handle. Just the saw sharpening to go. Will continue with the trend of 14 tpi. The heel of the saw plate is rather plain jane in appearance. Just for something different. The saw nuts are the ones with the chamfer added and seated slightly proud.

Stewie;

Originally Posted by planemaker

Making good progress on my new backsaw with the Jarrah handle. Just the saw sharpening to go. Will continue with the trend of 14 tpi. The heel of the saw plate is rather plain jane in appearance. Just for something different. The saw nuts are the ones with the chamfer added and seated slightly proud.

Stewie;

Looks nice Stewie!

What size is the blade??

It is hard to see but is that a tapered bevel on the top of the spine?? I have been playing with the idea of doing decorative filework on some of the spines.

Hi Dale. The tooth line will end up being 11 1/2" x 3" deep. The deco mark on the brass back was made using a file.

Will post your parcel on Monday.

Stewie;

I notice that Isaac tapers his saw nut heads.
I guess that is one way to ensure a tight fit.
Blackburn Tools - Split nut saw bolts