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Thread: Another tenon saw complete.
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30th October 2013, 12:15 PM #31Deceased
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Hi all. I took some vernier measurements of the countebore and the TFWW saw bolts I use. Same dia. found on 3 bolts I checked.
Counterbore (0.499 ") 12.67mm
saw bolts (0.493 ") 12.55 mm
Difference in dia. (0.006 ") 0.12mm
Stewie;
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30th October 2013, 12:22 PM #32Deceased
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30th October 2013, 09:04 PM #33Senior Member
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Hi Stewie, Awesome saw and beautiful handles, On the race cars we use a serrated washer that is also cone shaped so it acts as a spring washer/locking washer all in one they are Schnorr washers, might be of use under the heads of your saw bolts to stop them loosening off!!!,
Cheers, Richie
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30th October 2013, 11:12 PM #34Deceased
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31st October 2013, 08:04 AM #35
Richie, the purpose of the washer in this application is not to prevent the nut loosening, but to prevent the bolt from turning during tightening/loosening of the nut (it's placed under the head of the bolt, not the nut). Since they're not holding a screaming, vibrating monster together, coming loose in use isn't the issue here. The bolts often do loosen over time, because the fibres of the wood crush a little under the expansion caused by periods of high humidity, or the saws may be taken to a drier environment where the EMC is much lower. It may be some time before tightening is necessary, or you need to dismantle the saw for some reason, by which time the threads may have gummed up a bit, & it will be much more difficult to move the nut if the washer isn't biting into the head & wood. That's why I suggest to not leave them out, even though it's easy to tighten them down without the washer when the threads are new & running freely.
However, I think the washer idea is not a totally satisfactory solution, because if the bolt is loose, the washer isn't going to bite as well, & may not hold against the extra force required to move a reluctant nut. If the nut isn't too frozen, you will probably be able to press hard on the bolt head with your thumb to help the washer get a better purchase, but it could get a bit awkward. Note that split nuts like these are open to the atmosphere and whatever gets spilt on them, so they are more prone to oxidising or becoming gummed-up. (Perhaps that's one reason why manufacturers switched to the closed type?)
In any case, it isn't going to be an issue at the coming workshop,'cos we have enough of these to go round, now:
bolts for w_shop.jpg
Cheers,IW
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31st October 2013, 08:40 AM #36
Ian and i were discussing work holding while drilling the bolt holes in the tote. Wondering what you do to hold yours?? Drill Vise, Clamps, hand held??
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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31st October 2013, 09:31 AM #37Deceased
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Hi Dale. Using a counterbore with the fitted pilot guide I feel quite comfortable holding the work piece by hand. When I was relying on forstner bit I would lock the workpiece down using the type of clamp shown in the photo's where I am adding the chamfer to the saw bolts on the pedestal drill.
Stewie;
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31st October 2013, 12:22 PM #38
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31st October 2013, 02:15 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
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Looks like Douglas Fir (Oregon) to me.
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31st October 2013, 02:42 PM #40Deceased
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1st November 2013, 01:25 PM #41Deceased
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ready for sharpening.
Making good progress on my new backsaw with the Jarrah handle. Just the saw sharpening to go. Will continue with the trend of 14 tpi. The heel of the saw plate is rather plain jane in appearance. Just for something different. The saw nuts are the ones with the chamfer added and seated slightly proud.
Stewie;
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1st November 2013, 05:23 PM #42
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1st November 2013, 08:47 PM #43Deceased
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Hi Dale. The tooth line will end up being 11 1/2" x 3" deep. The deco mark on the brass back was made using a file.
Will post your parcel on Monday.
Stewie;
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2nd November 2013, 10:28 PM #44GOLD MEMBER
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I notice that Isaac tapers his saw nut heads.
I guess that is one way to ensure a tight fit.
Blackburn Tools - Split nut saw bolts
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