Thread: Tiger Myrtle. (small hand size)

I have a strong preference to remove the small area of saw plate that extends beyond the back of the spine mortise. If left as is , it can lead to a deflection along the saw plate. The thinner the saw plate gauge, the greater the potential.

Stewie;




example.

Originally Posted by rob streeper

Sorry Stewie, I didn't catch that you were re-emphasizing the information you presented in the post prior to the post to which I responded. Apologies,
Rob

Hi Rob. It was my fault for not clearly defining my intent.

regards Stewie;

Oh well it's all water under the bridge. Nonetheless, the majority of saws I've bought need to have their screws tightened regularly particularly if they're kept in my un-airconditioned/heated workshop.

Nice saw you're working up there, the new owner will be pleased I'm sure.

P.S., I can only see a little of the stamp but it looks like you've got that looking very nice too.

Stewie

It's looking good. Perhaps I am biased with a vested interest.

Mat

Shaping of the handle has now been completed. Further coats of garnet shellac will fill any remaining open grain, and darken the timber to more of a chocolate brown.

It also represents the ideal time to focus on the next stage of shaping the brass back, followed by filing the saw teeth.

The non traditional approach to profiling each side of the spine mortise should look fine after additional coats of shellac have been applied.

Stewie;

I don't expect making further progress until after the weekend with temps currently above 35* C. No air-con in my workshop.

Stewie;

I have finished applying the last coat of garnet shellac to the handle. The handle will be put aside for 5 days to allow the shellac to further harden and tighten up before final buffing. I have made a start on shaping the brass back.

Stewie;

Hand shaping of the brass back has been completed.

The next step is to bond the brass back to the top edge of the saw plate. .

Stewie;

To bond the brass back to the top edge of the saw plate I am using a medium strength Thread Lock. A thin bead of TL is applied to each side of the brass back slot, and the excess wiped off with a clean rag. The process is then repeated to insure a full depth of slot has been filled with TL. Allowing 5 min. for the TL to harden up, the saw plate assembly is then wiped down clean with a clean rag and Mineral Turpentine. Do not use denatured alcohol). Job done.



Next to do is file the saw teeth.

Note: The shaping; setting; and final sharpening of the saw teeth will not be covered in detail.

Stewie;

Looking good Stewie.
Any benefit for waiting until the plate is mounted before toothing, or just work flow?

Hiroller. Because I dont rely on a Foley machine to shape the saw teeth, it suits me to leave that step until after the hardback has been glued in place.

regards Stewie;

This thread has exceeded its expiry date imo.

With family staying for the xmas-new year period its been difficult getting some time in the workshop to finish off this backsaw. All that's remaining is to file and set the teeth 10 tpi / 10 degree rake angle.

Stewie;