Thread: Tiger Myrtle. (small hand size)

Notching the tpi spacings using the 10 tpi solid template I recently filed. Excellent results.



The notching template removed and the saw teeth shaped, jointed, and sharpened to point, ready for set to be applied.



The knowledge and skill set required to shape the saw teeth by hand cannot be compared to the simplicity of sharpening already pre formed teeth.

Stewie;

CHOOSING THE CORRECT SIZE OF FILE FOR YOUR SAW:

The most common advice given for choosing a file to use on a particular saw is to select one whose face is twice as wide as the edge of the tooth being filed.

Implicit in this rule of thumb is the assumption that a file wears evenly over its faces. In my experience, it does not. Rather, the corners of the file dull or fail first, even while there is still life left in the faces of the file. Rotating the file to a fresh corner restores the cutting ability, even though a portion of the face that was previously used is asked to continue cutting. This overlap allows one file to work for several different tooth pitches.

http://www.blackburntools.com/blog/concerning-saw-files-which-i-am-now-selling/


I am in total agreement with Isaac;

My preference is to work within the range of 1/2 - 3/4s of the files flat face width, to gullet dept.

Stewie;

Set was applied to the teeth; a light stoning on each side; then the backsaw was tested on rip and crosscut grain to check for tracking. All good.







All done.

Appreciate your interest.

regards Stewie;

Lovely work again.
You could make a guide out of a cheap hard point saw.
A 14 point saw will set you back around $10 and last longer than the aluminium.
The file will skate across the teeth.

Thanks hiroller. Appreciate your advise.

Stewie;

Nice saw
that myrtle looks brilliant

Posted this backsaw to its new owner in Canberra this morning.

Another consideration in selecting a file is the corner radius of the file. This radius increases as the length and width of the file increase. In extreme cases, the radius of the file can actually be larger than the front edge of a tooth. In this case, the actual rake of the tooth will be greater than expected, leading to unpredictable and unsatisfactory performance. This phenomenon is much more pronounced in smaller teeth (about 13 ppi and finer).
Furthermore, since the gullet takes its shape from the file, a larger file (with its larger radius) leaves a smaller gullet. With less space to carry sawdust, the saw will not clear the cut as well as one with a larger gullet. In general, gullet size and corner radius are of greater concern with small teeth and files, while face width is the more important consideration on larger teeth and files.Concerning saw files (which I am now selling) | Blackburn Tools

Needle files: These files are made by Glardon in Switzerland, and are of the highest quality. These are superior to any file (new or old) that I have ever used, in both sharpness and longevity. While they are more expensive than traditional taper saw files, they have several advantages.
First, their durability makes them cost effective, particularly when cutting in new teeth.
Second, the smaller corner radius of the file makes them the best choice for smaller teeth (I use them for all teeth 11 ppi and finer). The sharper corner creates more room in the gullet for holding sawdust to clear from the gullet. There is some concern that this sharper gullet will not release sawdust that gets packed in. While this may be a valid concern when used in green woods, these fine teeth are rarely used for cutting these woods. Some have also expressed concern that the sharp corner creates a stress riser, but I have seen no evidence of this in any of the saws I have filed with them.Blackburn Tools - Taper saw files

Total agreement with Isaac.

I use the Swiss Made; Vallorbe 180mm, Three Square Needle Files. http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/need...mm-p-1149.html

I use NOS Nicholson (usa)Taper Files; and NOS Wiltshire Taper Files (Australia); for less than 10 tpi hand saws.

Stewie;