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Thread: Restoring Cars
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12th December 2014, 03:06 PM #16
Interesting chat you two are having.
I've been watching in the back ground.
If you get stuck with any off the panel beating panel questions sing out and I will try to help.
I was panel beater for about 15 or so years 5 of them cutting out rust on VWs in England
So there you go your not alone lol
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12th December 2014, 04:22 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Looks like you use the same spray booth that I use Eddie. The parts after the Molls asses treatment look real good, does it take off the paint as well? I knew it was used for rusty parts. I looked on fleabay for books on restoration and found some $15.00 for one but postage was $22.00 from Qld, another from USA $22.00 with free postage!! I think he was trying to rip me off. This is the second time I've written this out, went to send, out of credit. As I use prepaid, I get no nasty surprises with big bills. Wish that there was a draft feature on here to save replies, instead of having to go into word etc. Des Bromilow was the name that I was thinking of when I mentioned about the motorcycle resto in MEW magazine, he did an article on the casting of an exhaust manifold for his vintage bike. Quite interesting, it was.
Thanks for the offer of panel beating tips, Simplicity Have read a few books on it, from the library, but will take you up on the offer if required.
Regards
Kryn
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12th December 2014, 05:21 PM #18
I'm enjoying this thread on Restoring Old Cars.... well done gents....crowie
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12th December 2014, 11:02 PM #19Senior Member
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Welcome Simplicity, wish I had known you a couple of years ago, But better late than never, although I have finished my welding and panel repairs there is always some thing that will need a bit of professional advise ,so its good to know you are in touch.
Kryn I have done parts of the other cars in the molasses and kept them for spares I am slowly, stripping the other cars, and stowing them away, as some of the bodies will be to far gone before they get restored , you are right about the price of books, especially if they are good ones, I have a few handy books on car upholstery and car woodwork. but its not the same as having a expert show you how it is done, I used to do the graining on the old cars metal facia an door mouldings, they would bring the pieces to me repaired and primed, and I would undercoat and grain ad clear finish them, but hat was way back in the 80s and 90s,very fiddley job need a lot of space to hang them while painting ,wil look out a pic or two.
This is my molasses tub and it is still going,but getting a bit smelly after nearly two years,
and how it can clean the rusted parts up,and the drums I skimmed out on the lathe,
and I think it is the best way to o it, but be careful putting in parts with aluminium attached as it will affect the aluminium.
Thanks peter glad you will be watching still having trouble with the missing letters.
Eddie
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13th December 2014, 12:26 AM #20GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Eddie, what is the name of the book on the woodwork PLEASE and do you find it good value? The molls asses that you use, is it mixed with anything or neat and where do you get it from? The parts certainly come out clean, I'll remember about the ally not to go in it.
Regards
Kryn
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13th December 2014, 08:30 AM #21
Happy Birthday today Eddie.....
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13th December 2014, 12:58 PM #22Senior Member
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Thanks Peter the day as started good. still have the letters missing.
Kryn Wooden Body Framing ,by Alan Alderwick.
This is a handy book it is work done on a Mg and Alvis,which dose not go back to far, so not in the Antique line.
These are by C,W,Terry and Authur Hall, A Vintage Croft Series
Antique Auto Body, Wood Work,
" " " Metal Work,
" " " Top Work,
Are for very old Antiques, but gives a lot of information ,on the different parts of a car. if you are rebuilding one, handy to see how they built them in those days, especially the Top folding Iron work, Not useful for modern type restoration.
This is the Graining I use to do.
Eddie
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13th December 2014, 03:22 PM #23
Hi,
That graining is impressive, I believe the wood grain on the pressed steel dashes on some mid nineteen forties American cars, (eg. Oldsmobile and Buick) were done with a photographic process and could not be repaired.
RegardsHugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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13th December 2014, 10:19 PM #24Senior Member
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You are right I think most cars with all metal trim were done that way and when they wear out in them most handled places, as you say they would not be repaired, so I did quite a few cars of various shapes and sizes ,still have my kit for the graining but have not done any since the early 90s.there was back in the 50s a graining paper in the USA ,that you could use on prepared ground work, and you could use it a couple of times before it became to faint an the colour would be lost, and you then coated it with the finishing coat, but it was like the panelled timber today a repeated pattern, unfortunately The trade of graining and marbling has died out, but if you have to restore a car and you need to do the grain replacement, there wont be many people around to do it any more, which is a shame, any way thanks for the nice words, must get back to the WIP .
Eddie
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13th December 2014, 10:51 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Many happy returns for today Eddie, hope you had a nice one. That graining is beautiful work, is it done by a curved rubber block, I vaguely remember my father having one. Thanks for the details of the books I'll look them up, when/if, I get closer to doing something with the Willy's.
Kryn
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14th December 2014, 03:17 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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14th December 2014, 10:30 PM #27Senior Member
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No they are done in water and oil stains ,Using special brushes ,the rubber graining pads you are talking about are a bit on the repartition side and can look very gaudy on doors and cars ,as they tend to bring the grained line into very thick lines ,but if you have any idea how wood actually looks when it has bee quartered or slabbed, it is impossible to make it look like the rear thing with the rubber gizmo.I had cleaned all the crud of the out side of the car floor, and gave it a good coat of Haymes Rust lockpaint, then a coat of Auto primer followed by a under coat and finished with stone chip paint Sealing all joints first, this is what the bottom looked like at this stage, ready to be put back up to the right way,
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15th December 2014, 12:03 AM #28GOLD MEMBER
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Excellent work Eddie, looks like she'll be around for another 100 years. That's the beauty of being able to turn the body over, all nooks and crannies can be gotten at and repaired properly.
How do you do panels like this? Is it 2 metal plates put into a large press or is it hammered? As it looks like a large pressing.
KrynLast edited by KBs PensNmore; 15th December 2014 at 12:17 AM. Reason: More detail
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16th December 2014, 12:30 AM #29GOLD MEMBER
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Beast of Turin
Seeing as how we don't have an official forum as yet, I hope the mods don't mind me putting this on here.
An Old Racer brought back to life. "Terror of Turin"
Just watch them crank this baby
Interesting at the end of the video when they finally start the engine!
http://vimeo.com/113158655
Kryn
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16th December 2014, 07:27 AM #30Senior Member
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Great Forum
Chaps
Really great forum. I've been posting over in the welding section. Car restoration makes more sense. As you guessed I'm restoring three Goggos ... I'm a real novice and already made plenty of Blues.
im keen to do a blow by blow on my Goggo's ... Like most restorations I have to cover everything thing. Welding, upolstry, transmissions, painting, electrics, ....
The people in the Goggo club are great. Best help you can get .. I want to share my experience and pick into the grey haired matter out there. I have found it hard to find somewhere on the Internet to share my stuff .. Like most I'm not much of a computer wiz and cannot seem to get blogs in my brain.
Where do. I start .. Can I start a new thread on Goggo restorations ?
Randal
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