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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default 1952 Tanner 10" Table Saw

    I didn't want to get my hopes too high as I had only seen one photo in the ad on Gumtree.
    I needn't have worried because it is a little ripper (see what I did there )
    I don't have any photos of the condition it was in because I had to dismantle it to get it into the car by myself.
    Really well made with a lot of thought gone into adjustments and setup.
    Rusty Top.jpg Bits.jpg Main Carriage.jpg Shroud.jpg

    I stripped it right down and started cleaning. Everything was in pretty good condition. Some old minor breaks in the casting had been well repaired.

    I cleaned all the old grease out of the arbor and regreased it as the bearings felt fine.

    The top, fence rails and fence were all rusted but it was only minor surface rust.
    I got the wire brush on the angle grinder and cleaned it up pretty quickly. Some 220 grit Abranet on the ROS brought the table top up very nice.

    Unfortunately the table has a non standard mitre slot, 1" wide rather than 3/4".
    Fortunately it came with the original mitre gauge. It needed a bit of a clean but it came up nice as well.

    Original Mitre Gauge.jpg Mitre Gauge.jpg

    The adjustment mechanisms hadn't seen a lot of love over the years and needed a good clean and regrease.
    A rack and pinion to turn a square thread and raise and lower the table and another rack and pinion to tilt the table.

    Control Centre.jpg Starboard.jpg

    All back together and operating smoothly.

    Clean Top.jpg The Tanner.jpg

    In the photo above you can see the fence lock bolt is missing.
    It had gone walk about many years ago. Luckily someone posted a photo if the missing bolt in another thread.
    I have some hard brass bolts, just the right size and it only took a few minutes to turn one into the missing bit.

    Fence bolt 2.jpg Fence bolt.jpg

    The fence locks down nice and solid with bugger all movement at the other end. The extended rails give around 550mm maximum rip, which is plenty for what I want to do.
    I'll make up a crosscut sled once it's up and running and maybe a drop down outfeed table.

    The zero clearance insert is the one that was in the table. I'll need to make up a new one.
    There is also provision for a riving knife, missing, so I will need to make one of those as well. I've got some old blades that I can cut up for the riving knife.
    It is also missing a key and grub screw off the motor pulley so I can't run it yet but I will sort that out after Christmas.

    Riving Knife.jpg Port.jpg

    Really happy with this little saw. I think I will get at least another 66 years of use out of it.
    I'll strip the stand down and give it a paint one day too but you can't rush these things.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,095

    Default

    Good pick up Tony. I will check it's condition in another 66 years!!!

    I wonder if you could fix in a spacer in the mitre groove to bring it down to 3/4" when required.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Yarram
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,207

    Default

    It looks remarkably like the one I have which has the name Kavanaugh cast in the body. The design seems vey similar by the look of it. Mine is in bits at the moment, it's been in bits before, all because of the bit I've arrowed in the pic.
    Bits.jpg
    On mine, sawdust eventually finds its way into the thread and binds the sleeve nut. If I had compressed air on hand and regularly blew it down that'd be good, otherwise i suppose you know already that you have to disassemble a lot of the workings to get to it

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    139

    Default

    NCArcher,
    It's great to see another of these Tanner saws coming back to life. Mine has been doing a great job for 3 years now. I like the fact that the table tilt has that screw quadrant, because it makes the table stay where you want it a little more positively than on my Hyco, but the fine thread on this adjustment as well as the table lift makes for some tedious work when making adjustments.

    It looks like you found my thread with the reference to the company in NZ that has spare parts for Tanner gear. I was amazed that they had the parts I needed to get mine running.

    Graham.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    Knocked up a riving knife, zero clearance insert and cross cut sled today.
    The riving knife is a bit small as I could only find a small blade to cut up. Think I might have thrown the other ones out.
    Also adjusted the table so it is cutting square to the mitre slots and fence.
    Spent a bit of time getting the fence on the sled spot on.The runners for the sled were made from a cutting board.
    Small setback as I was finishing though. I was using a bit of allen key as a key on the motor shaft but it decided it didn't want to be in there any more.
    I'll have to try and find some actual key steel next week.
    New Riving Knife.jpg Zero Clearance.jpg Sled.jpg

    It does cut very nice when the pulley stays on though.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

    Default

    Blackwoods sells keysteel of all different sizes. I bought a heap. What size?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    I just measured. It looks like 3/16"
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
    Age
    71
    Posts
    1,301

    Default

    McJings sell key steel, and just about any bearing supplier or small engineers supplier will stock it as well.

    Alan...

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    might have to be McJings online. There's a bit of a shortage of anything remotely industrial up here in the clouds
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

    Default

    Closest i’ve got is 6mm and 1/4”. If you don’t mind a bit of filing, PM me your address.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    Closest i’ve got is 6mm and 1/4”. If you don’t mind a bit of filing, PM me your address.
    Thanks Peter,
    I love hand filing hardened steel as much as the next bloke but I think I will grab a bit of 3/16" from McJings
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,166

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    Thanks Peter,
    I love hand filing hardened steel as much as the next bloke but I think I will grab a bit of 3/16" from McJings
    They're on holidays for a bit, might be worth keeping moving forward with the project by whipping out the file?

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    139

    Default Tanner SB1053 Table Saw parts diagram

    Tidying up in my workshop, I came across this parts diagram for the Tanner SB 1053 Bench Saw, so I thought I'd post it up here. In this thread I gave the details of where I got Tanner spare parts from: Tanner tilting table saw question This diagram came from them.

    Graham.

    Tanner SB1053 Table Saw.pdf

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    Thanks Graham.
    Everything looks identical with the exception of the opening in the table top and the insert. Although my table says 1952 (which falls within the dates on the diagram) it has a longer opening with an extension for the riving knife/splitter.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Hi There

    I also have a very similar table saw that I acquired recently. I an new to woodworking and am looking for advice on how to retro-fit a riving knife on my saw after 'sending' a ply off-cut across my garage and hitting the garage door with some force! I left a similar post on Grahams post concerning this type of saw. Is there any chance that you can post a picture of how you attached your riving knife to the saw housing from underneath the saw table please? My table saw has the slot for the blade to rise up and down through cut straight down the middle of the oval table insert, which is different to yours pictured, however any advice would be helpful as I dont want to become a statistic when the next piece of wood contacts the blade! I also do not appear to have the two screws / fixings on the right hand side of the opening of my blade housing beneath the table as shown in your picture? Is this where you fixed your riving knife too? I do however have three threaded holes, with screws (one missing), spaced out at the East / South / West positions on the open side of the blade housing. I was wondering if these were used for mounting some sort of safety device? I will try and post some pictures to clarify this when I get the chance.

    Anyones help would be appreciated ....

    Regards

    MAT

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